The issue. I installed Sard 850cc injectors a few days ago. Car ran fine.
Today I installed my 264 cams and the car ran and drove fine.
Then I installed new plugs and pop filter and it was, again, running fine.
I had it idling for about 15 -20 min in the driveway and it starts to run slightly rough(the average person wouldn't be able to hear the difference it was so slight) then it cuts off. I tried to crank it and turned but no start.
Checked all fuses, pulled plugs for injectors, turned it so I know its not flooding. Im very confused as to what it could be. It sounds like its getting no spark because when you crank it turns over smoothly like when you take out your spark plugs and coil packs to clear a flooded engine of gas.
Just a little more info:
SR20DET
Car is ROM tuned for 272 cams, 740cc injectors.
I did 15% correction on my SAFC to compensate for the 850cc injectors.
Thanks for any help.
OB
Running fine then cuts off, no restart. SR
Re: Running fine then cuts off, no restart. SR (OBTRICE)
I was having this same problem in my car, the initial problem was the maf plug was coming loose, but these are also symptoms of a bad ect sensor so you might want to check that as well.
okay
so is it after the car heats up it starts having gay issues? I would say it's a tuning problem. Remember different injectors pulse differently. Just because the SAFC was downtuned for bigger injectors, doesn't mean they are going to run right =O
Heres what I would do, try each of these things then drive try again. Don't do them all at once since you won't be able to isolate the problem =D.
1) Unplug that damn SAFC2) Turn your fuel pressure down to 35 psi at open throttle. This should put your injectors at about 85% load which with 850s, it will be close to your 740cc injectors running at ~95% load. 3) Buy some NGK 7s or 6s and gap them to .28, you could be blowing your spark out once your engine heats up (maybe, $9 so worth a try)4) Since your messing with cams and the ecu. Go ahead and lean out 2 degrees, test, and if that doesn't work enrich 2 degrees from your original spot. You don't need an ecu re-tune to run 272s or 264s on stock, so just get a timing light and play with your CAS until things start smoothing out. With correct timing 264s should barely cause your idle to lope...
Then come back and let us know if any of that worked =D
so is it after the car heats up it starts having gay issues? I would say it's a tuning problem. Remember different injectors pulse differently. Just because the SAFC was downtuned for bigger injectors, doesn't mean they are going to run right =O
Heres what I would do, try each of these things then drive try again. Don't do them all at once since you won't be able to isolate the problem =D.
1) Unplug that damn SAFC2) Turn your fuel pressure down to 35 psi at open throttle. This should put your injectors at about 85% load which with 850s, it will be close to your 740cc injectors running at ~95% load. 3) Buy some NGK 7s or 6s and gap them to .28, you could be blowing your spark out once your engine heats up (maybe, $9 so worth a try)4) Since your messing with cams and the ecu. Go ahead and lean out 2 degrees, test, and if that doesn't work enrich 2 degrees from your original spot. You don't need an ecu re-tune to run 272s or 264s on stock, so just get a timing light and play with your CAS until things start smoothing out. With correct timing 264s should barely cause your idle to lope...
Then come back and let us know if any of that worked =D