RUCA for Q

[96'er]

Who knows where to get the RUCA for th 94-96 Q?

I found these for the front on Ebay, but I am looking for the rears as well, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ories

[elwesso]

z32 RUCA's will work. Dont get cheap ebay crap! SPL or bust (your suspension)

[96'er]

Will do, any suggestions as to who has quality RUCA and FUCA's?

[maxnix]

http://www.splparts.com

The front UCA are available but not on the website. Call them.

Beware of eBay guys selling imitations. You will need the the front tension rods also.

[96'er]

z32 RUCA's will work. Dont get cheap ebay crap! SPL or bust (your suspension)

Will the Z32 FUCA work as well on the Q or is something else needed?

[elwesso]

yeah but you have to have the solid tension rods too.

[96'er]

I am not looking for the most expensive, but a reputable and good quality product that once it is installed I really don't have to worry about it, except for the occasional maintenance.

I have read through the threads regarding the suspension parts needed to allow for camber adjustment and the waters are still muddy as to what parts I need to put the car back into OEM alignment specs.

So can anyone boil this down to something manageable and possibly make this a sticky in the knowledge base?

[elwesso]

What threads have you gone through, because I know I've gone through MULTIPLE times what is needed... It might be in the HOW-TO section. Search my posts..

Essentially if you have a lowered car you need rear adjustable arms, and for the front you can either shim the upper link brackets or get adjustable upper arms, noting that SPL solid upper arms require solid tension rods to prevent bearing wear.

If your primary concern is tire wear, you only need to worry about the TOE.. Front is plenty adjustable... Toe has so much more affect on tire wear than camber does. having -2* degrees of static camber vs -.5* will not matter as far as tire wear concerns, so long as the TOE is set properly at the new ride height...

[96'er]

Several of the threads you have responded and I was considering the shim route on the front behind the upper link brackets and either the SPL or Battle Version RUCA.

Should two shims be installed behind each bolt of the upper link bracket and is there a minimum or maximum thickness I should look for in the shims? The posters suggested either Auto Zone or Napa for the washers. Also, is two shims each going to be sufficient to get the camber within the correct alignment range?

[elwesso]

of course you have to get some sort of static camber measurement for starters... You cant just say "2 shims is gonna do it" because that depends what you're toe is set at and whatnot, and also the thickness of the shim...

if you want to go that route just pay your alignment shop an extra hour labor.

[maxnix]

What threads have you gone through, because I know I've gone through . having -2* degrees of static camber vs -.5* will not matter as far as tire wear concerns, so long as the TOE is set properly at the new ride height...

Actually, -2° of rear camber does affect tire wear substantially over -1.5°. While I agree toe is much more important, negative camber has to be addressed.

One need s to read Q45tech's posts about the consequences of lowering and the remedies involved. Then read Wes's post about his set up. There is no easy cheap way. Being cheap with suspension bits is not a good safety practice. When one visits SPL, one can see the care they take to design and manufacture their components. The owner is not some teenie guessing at what should work, but has a doctorate in physics from UT.

[96'er]

I picked up two different washers to use as shim and the larger of the two measures 2.2mm thick and the smaller washer measures 2.1mm.

Is there a calculation that determines how much the suspension changes when a shim of a particular thickness is added to the upper link bracket?

Also, the numbers after the thrust alignment are as follows:

FrontCamber (range -0.01 - -1.6 degrees) Left -1.4, Right -1.7Toe (range 0.00in - 0.04in) Left 0.03, Right 0.01Caster (range 5.8 - 7.3 degrees) Left 5.8, Right 5.5

RearCamber (range -0.06 - -1.6 degrees) Left -1.9, Right -2.0Toe (range 0.00in - 0.09in) Left 0.05, Right 0.03

Based on this information, currently the right front and both rear wheels are out of spec for camber and the right front is out on caster.

I need to search out Q45Tech's post on this subject and Maxnix only quality parts should go into these cars.

[maxnix]

I think Q45tech used 2x .25" diameter washers. The alignment is an iterative process, loosening and changing out washers until spot on. It is very labor intensive.

Slightly better are the wedges SPL has to move the mounting bracket out board.

Best is the adjustable upper links.

Remember, it all is set up by the 0° thrust angle initially!

[timderiksen]

i wouldn't spend the money on any of it i took mine and cut them apart spaced them 3/8inch. beveled the ends that were gonna be welded on. then put a 3/8 spacer(plate) then heated it up(cause they are forged) then tig welded them back together. well after cutting them apart when a rep. saw that took out 1/6 inch then a little grinding. so another 32nd on each side. so in reality they were really spaced 5/16inch-ish. i went from 2.0 neg camber to 1.0 and they didnt have to adjust anything camber wise so i have that whole 1/8inch of adjustment still to work with.