royal purple discredited,,,it's not what they claim.

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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mattblancarte
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Was hoping to see Motul 300v Chrono in that shearing test.

Edit: I run 300v Chrono 10w40, and it's still super clean even after a track weekend (which usually amounts to about 160 minutes of balls-to-the-wall madness at around 105-110 degrees celsius on my oil). If you track your car, consider your oil temps, and how well it performs at those temps. I run the 300v because it works just fine up to and beyond 150 degrees celsius. Bearings, however...
Modified by mattblancarte at 5:36 PM 4/9/2009


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Armstec_S13
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Wow, who knows I always ran RP in my 97 eclipse gst and not one had a problem, then again she did get crank walk, so I dunno if I should blame RP or mitsubishi because crank walk is like timing chain rattle in our 240's no matter what its gonna happen

silviaziz
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I only used Royal Purple once and did not have a good experience. It was in a 1998 740il and I swear the car ran a little bit more sluggish after my oil change (other family members felt the same way). I believe the correct viscosity was used. Anyway, I'm a huge fan of Amsoil, it has never let me down and always comes out the oil pan nearly as golden as it went in.

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Razi
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mattblancarte wrote:Was hoping to see Motul 300v Chrono in that shearing test.
It probably owns everything else. :P

ZX88
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castrol gtx and Mobil 1 done.

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ViciousCesar
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i was actually thinking of switching over to RP 10w40. but now that i read that some of you guys had problems with it, i doubt I'll switch to it.

Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic 10w30 + Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer... FTW!

lol...

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xX RB Xx
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^ yeah forgot that..

i dont like penzoil.

i prefer royal purple and wix filter.. no problems what so ever.


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mattblancarte
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Razi wrote:It probably owns everything else. :P
That's what I've heard from whom I consider to be very knowledgeable racers, but a test like that always helps hehe.

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Razi
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Yeah, this test has started to get me interested in seeing more tests with different oils.

S133P3R
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anyone seen the difference between oil filters? now that is some s***... dont buy fram (like you ever did)

JSDEVILDOG29
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I hate Penzoil. It has a parafin wax base that turns into sludge over time. I also hate fram. Mobil 1 is the shiznit though.

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Didderson
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I always assumed castrol was s***ty oil because when I worked at pep boys our oils that go on sale and had coupons were either castrol gtx or penzoil.

That's just me though, I'm just assuming but maybe pep boys gets deals on them.I'm definitely not using RP this summer. Let's see how amsoil or mobil1 fairs. I don't like the throwing a rod stories.Thanks to everyone who posts up their xperience/knowledge on oillllll
Modified by Didderson at 8:12 AM 4/10/2009

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ViciousCesar
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anyone had any bad experiences with Amsoil 10W-40 Synthetic Premium? because now that RP is out of the running it's gonna be either that or (if the funds are available) Motul 300v Chrono.

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audtatious
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This reminds me of Slick 50 which was supposed to be a wonder-additive

S133P3R
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^^are you saying its not?

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audtatious
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Not from what I hear

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Fr0zEn
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Castrol GTX 20-50 FTW!

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tctomasc
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I highly reccomend mobil 1. I mean no matter where you go, its gonna be advertising that steers you towards oil. I work at a BMW shop, and the owner is from australia. In Aus, they use mobil 1 in bimmers. Over here, Castrol pays to get their name on the oil caps. Its all abotu who pays the bills. I have used both castrol and mobil, and mobil just feels better to me. Can't really explain it. 0w-40 mobil1 ftmfw.

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marlin29311
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jessetang wrote:The only way engine oil produce more power is because it is thinner (less friction, simple physics)
That's too simple. Viscoscity and oil weight are not the same.

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brizanden
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Razi wrote:Oil TestsThey tested all kinds of synthetic oils against shearing protection and Royal Purple did very good.

I skimmed what you posted and did not see that any tests to disprove their claims for protection.

Who cares how much power you gain from motor oil, if it protects, I'm a happy camper.
yes razi thank you i have been looking for this article for months. the ops post is trash tho.

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adrianfromthecastle
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I've been running RP on my SR for 3 years (since I've had it), and so far no problems at all. I change it regularly... I daily my car, I've tracked my car, and I've accidentally over revved my engine like 3 times or so... and to this day, no problems *knock on wood*

I even ran RP on my old KA that had like >220,000 miles on it... no problem...

EviL inside
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Fr0zEn wrote:Castrol GTX 20-50 FTW!
wow,,,why such a heavy oil,,,especially in ohio?

i've run 5-20w synthetic through a whole south mississippi summer in a 110k+ mile DOHC motor with no problems. i don't use 20-50 on anything but air-cooled VW's and my 260,000 mile jeep 4.0.

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Razi
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brizanden wrote:yes razi thank you i have been looking for this article for months. the ops post is trash tho.
np yo
adrians_s13 wrote:I've been running RP on my SR for 3 years (since I've had it), and so far no problems at all. I change it regularly... I daily my car, I've tracked my car, and I've accidentally over revved my engine like 3 times or so... and to this day, no problems *knock on wood*

I even ran RP on my old KA that had like >220,000 miles on it... no problem...
This is why I'll be using RP.If adrian has used it like that and had no problems, it's good enough for me.

redclaw05
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i use heavy oil

15w-40 rotella T

in my s14 sr20det

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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe
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we have an adrian groupie in our midst

S14toRPS13
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XS Engineering's blue R32 GTR time attack car uses Royal Purple. After trying out different brands, they found out that RP ran 15 degrees cooler. More protection, runs cooler, I'd say those are two important factors when deciding what oil to use.

cody180sx
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always used mobile 1 synthetic also the GT-R's use mobile 1 synthetic from the factory saw the oil cap at a local dealer popped the hood for use to look at

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Fibre guy
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HEY! HEY! Don't forget the Greddy GR full-synthetic oils that were recently released in the U.S.They go for protection 100% you spend 15-20k on your motor you don't want a few little horses to rip your precious engine up."highly shear-stable engine oil that offers exceptional engine protection in performance driving conditions. This is especially important when protecting highly modified balanced and blueprinted engines, with forged pistons and bored cylinders.""Can be used in all turbocharged or naturally aspirated gasoline and diesel engines used in performance cars. It is recommended for use in rallying, motor racing and other arduous driving conditions such as sustained high-speed motoring, or in slow moving, dense traffic conditions."$8-$10 for a quart is worth it.

nzmoman
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well not to say anything about the builds that some of you have had, but for those who think RP messed their engines up, what makes you think it was RP?

Where you running regular oil first, as you are supposed to with new builds? did you monitor your engines performance?

when i have seen oil mess up a motor, it was not a fast thing. You typically notice something isn't right before it goes, especially if you are monitoring your engine during break in.

Also, I think a lot of people make claims that the stuff is no good (even though it tested better than other synths), but they don't take into account the condition of their motors, the viscosity and weight that they should be using. And also I know a few people in my area who have blown up engines after switching oils, but it can (in most cases) be traced back to a bad build, insufficient oil or cooling, or just plain engine abuse.

I've used RP in all my SR's (7) and never had a problem. I use Zmax every 3 or 4 months as well. That stuff is awesome, especially when you drop a new swap that hasn't run in a while. It cleans it out pretty damn good in my opinion.


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