Rolls over, wont start

[joelrgr]

Just dropped in a ka24de and transmission. Everything should be wired up correctly, I am getting spark. it rolls over just fine but wont actually fire. We re-gasketed the motor before we put it in, the crank and rods looked/felt good and snug, the valves were not bent or anything, pistons were a bit black on top, but nothing horrible. Throw some ideas at me?

[RCG_Savage]

injectors possibly cloggedFuel pump badmixed up fuel lines.

If you're getting spark you're not getting fuel so something wrong with the fuel system.

[niemczykj]

check timing, and positivly confirm that you have fuel and spark. I'm assuming you know how to do both.

[2d-ink]

If you have fuel, sparks, and your timing is good and your car still wont start, you dont have compression. So check Compression if all those 3 things I just named checked out fine..

[sportzguy38]

Make sure like the person before me said to check that your getting fuel by pulling off the fuel feed line to the rail and just open the switch to see if fuel comes out. If it does then its most likely your timing set the first pison at TDC and if the distributor seems to be in the right position you might be 1a full revolution off so rotate the engine all the way one more time and set the distributor to the first piston. It seems like the most likely culprit is your timing I recently when through the same thing and it turned out to be that the timing was a full revolution off.

[joelrgr]

that was the case, but it still wont fire, almost does! Ill post another vid in a second.

I am getting fuel, maybe a little too much. The popping is the exhaust, assuming its combustion lol ...


Modified by joelrgr at 1:08 PM 1/12/2008

[el OCHO]

hah check and make sure ur battery posts are tight

[andromeda]

i think you may be goin through the exact thing i just did. Does it smell like fuel pretty bad? Same thing was happening to me, almost wanted to start but couldnt. turns out the injectors were not pulsing like they should. just staying open, solution. Bad ground for the injectors. Check the grounds on those suckers. It started right away after we fixed the problem. hope this helps man

[joelrgr]

well i regrounded the one ground terminal off the harness to a good ground and still having same issue. Definetly getting fuel lol leaning towards a timing issue now lol

[andromeda]

haha, its so frustrating, i just went through this crap too. Let me know what it is, double check them grounds :P

[Kataki_]

i just pray to god mine cranks tomorrow with no issues, just got a few easy things,a couple of brackets and such, distributor and only one hellish thing..vacuum lines. and from everything i can tell it sounds like the Mazda 626 we always have at the shop when it's timing was off

[sportzguy38]

Yeah it sounds like your still having the timing issue just set it back to top dead center and adjust it. While your trying to crank it over have u tried adjusting the distributor back and forth. Sometimes just adjusting the distributor will get the car going and then if its not running right you can just jump the distributor one tooth and adjust from there to get it to run smoothly. When your cranking just have someone moving the distributor from one extreme to the other and hopefully it'll start even if it runs rough you'll at least be hinted which way the timing needs to be adjusted. All the backfiring is just from the raw fuel going through and finally igniting in the exhaust system, but it definately seems like a timing issue.

[joelrgr]

As well as a possible timing issue, how much would it affect it that I believe my harness to either be a KA24E harness or an Auto DE harness

[joelrgr]

New DOHC 5Spd. 93 harness on the way already. BLAH... silly silly business. going to triple check timing tomorrow.

[Asmar]

Did you make sure your battery is good?

[xekushnr]

Did you make sure your battery is good?

Definitely not the battery. If the battery was weak it would have trouble cranking or it wouldnt crank at all and the solenoid would click. The battery sounds fine.

Check the timing again. Make sure the injectors are fine. If you have a fuel pressure gauge, check the pressure.

[joelrgr]

Well the starting issue was timing, distributor timing. Got it to run and idle, but soon as i hit the gas pedal it stalls. MAF is fine, i do have an auto harness right now so my Throttle position Sensor may not be working properly, but i dont know if that would do this.

Also loud ticking from top of motor.

[zooyorkskater212]

well with any car you need spark, compression, and fuel check those first it could just be timing or something simple like a filter or something

[sedoken]

Sigh.... Everyone always forgets to check the fuses, always do that first. it's probably the alternator fuse, i had the same problem with both my cars at one point, and looked all around the motor and everything. for the s14 models, it's the 75A fuse, and for the older 240's i think it's just a simple fuse u can pick up almost anywhere.

if that was not the case, then it never hurts to check.

also for the stalling part. make sure your exhaust is not clogged. i had my 92 filled with water, unknowingly of course, and everytime i gave it gas it stalled. and it was an automatic. so check your exhaust.

those are just my two thoughts on your problems, but it is also highly probable that there is something else causing the problems.

[sedoken]

ticking might be the knock sensor. which is a ***** to replace if that is your case, run an OBD scan tool through it if you can.

[Alteus]

Hey all, I'm having a similar issue with my car. It's a stock '95 KA motor, OBD-II. I'm almost positive I've got both fuel and spark, and timing is fine, but it's still not starting. Basically, after changing my oil, the car wouldn't start. I didn't touch a single thing except for the oil filter and the drain plug for the oil pan. First time trying to start it after getting it back on the ground it cranked, started, then died. Tried it again...crank, start, die. Now it will crank endlessly and won't start, just like the first video posted. And to answer the obvious question, I used Mobil 1 10W-30 high mileage oil, no additives. My first thought was to check the plugs, so I did, and they looked normal, actually maybe a little too black, but not bad. Except for one (major) thing...the plug in cylinder number 2 was covered in oil, and I don't mean just a little bit of oil, it was soaked in oil. The bad news is I just checked compression and it turned out pretty terrible...around 90-65-85-95 in order from 1 to 4. I also tried moving the distributor around (i.e. loosening the bolts and rocking it in place) to see if that had any effect on anything and it had none whatsoever.

To reiterate, I know I have fuel because it smells like gas when it cranks, and the plugs get wet. (Maybe TOO wet---the smell of gas is strong, and for a while I thought the motor was flooded.) And I know I have spark, because I tested all four spark plug boots by arcing them against a ground (don't flame me about being dangerous lol). In addition it should be noted that the ECU had stored codes for knock sensor (P0325) and crankshaft position sensor (P0335). So what do you think, is my engine toast? I just don't understand how it could have happened just like that. It was running fine before with no big issues.

Cliff notes:

- Motor ran great before changing oil, but no oil was spilled- Got spark and fuel- Car wants to start on first crank but then dies right away- Oil on spark plug in cylinder 2- Bad compression all around and terrible in cylinder 2 - Changing position of the distributor does nothing- OBD-II scanner returned codes for knock sensor and crankshaft position sensor- Dead motor?

Edit: Going to test injectors tomorrow. Maybe some oil did spill on something and short a wire out...
Modified by Alteus at 10:10 PM 1/14/2008

[joelrgr]

I did have a blown alternator fuse but i replaced it before we even put the motor in. It was a big 75 one, couldnt find it anywhere so i wired up my own fuse using the blown one as the holder. (attached wires to the two terminals inside the blown box fuse, ran them out the top of the fuse to a big 75 "normal style" fuse.

Where is the knock sensor located?

We're thinking now i have a bad vaccuum leak and it may be by the FPR. The stalling is being done by the leak at the FPR choking out the motor with fuel. I know im running very rich for 2 reasons.

1) im using used exhaust manifold gaskets until my new ones arrive (simple mockup for the start-up) and fuel is dripping out of #4 exhaust port.

2) I can start the car once, but then it wont start again. I unplug injectors, it will still start up and idle for about 5 seconds, then dies because of lack of fuel. Plug injectors back in and it will fire and idle.

[sedoken]

u have to get the 75a fuse from nissan, as far as i know that's the only place i can get mine at