Rogue Break-In Period?

Nissan Rogue forum - Includes Nissan Qashqai and Nissan Dualis as well.
albertwang16
Posts: 91
Joined: Sat Nov 03, 2007 4:32 am

Post

So what is it anyway? what's your defination of "breaking in"? what do you need to do? pay attention to? and what's after the break in period?


cpca
Posts: 40
Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2007 4:50 pm
Car: 2008 Rogue SL AWD Phantom White

Post

From page 5-20 of the owner's manual:
»Caution:

During the first 1,200 miles (2,000 km), follow these recommendations to obtain maximum engine performance and ensure the future reliability and economy of your new vehicle. Failure to follow these recommendations may result in shortened engine life and reduced engine performance.

Avoid driving for long periods at constant speed, either fast or slow. Do not run the engine over 4,000 rpm.

Do not accelerate at full throttle in any gear.

Avoid quick starts.

Avoid hard braking as much as possible.

Do not tow a trailer for the first 500 miles (800 km). Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.

albertwang16
Posts: 91
Joined: Sat Nov 03, 2007 4:32 am

Post

Thanks for the info.

Does anyone know why "Avoid driving for long periods at constant speed, either fast or slow. Do not run the engine over 4,000 rpm."

I just past the 400 miles and I am planning to take the car from NY to Boston during thanksgiving. Counting in the traffic I will hit, it will be "long period" but not at "constant speed".

It that gonna be a problem to the car?

User avatar
mag318
Posts: 138
Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 8:30 pm
Car: Nissan Rogue

Post

Albert,No problem, just use the cruise control any every so often vary your speed up and down. I had 800 miles on my Rogue when I took it on a 1500 mile road trip. I think they just want you to vary your rpms and not stay at a constant speed for an extended time. They don't tell you how to do this but the above method worked well varying your speed and RPMs every say 5 minutes or so. You'll be fine and before you know it the odometer will reach 1200 miles.

albertwang16
Posts: 91
Joined: Sat Nov 03, 2007 4:32 am

Post

Thansk for the reply. Happy Holiday everyone and be safe on the road!

IGOR53
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Dec 23, 2007 7:48 am
Car: Rouge SL AWD

Post

In order to properly seat your piston rings speed variation is necessary.I've read that by alternatley accelerating then removing foot from gas and decelerating will speed the ring seating

leighle5
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 2008 1:36 pm
Car: 2009 Rogue SL FWD Premium Pkg

Post

When I took an 09' Rogue for a test drive.. (here starts my lack of mechanical car knowledge, you may laugh if you like...) The salesman said that -something- was preshrunk so the break in period wasn't as long as on a typical new car. I've never had a new car and had no idea there was a break in period at all... So... here's my question!

I read in the owner's manual online that for the first 1200 miles you have to reduce speeds, rpm's and times at certain speeds. Does this mean I can't take an hour road trip using interstate? That's about as far as I go and had planned to go there soon after we get the Rogue (tomorrow hopefully) I guess my question is what is too much, too fast, too long... I'm sure that's a tough call but I'm hoping you seasoned Rogue drivers could shed some light on my "newbee" question!!

Thanks! Ashleigh
Last edited by Rogue One on Tue Jul 21, 2015 6:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Merged with existing thread

philipa_240sx
Posts: 4138
Joined: Thu Jun 21, 2007 7:30 am
Location: Canada

Post

I have to respectfully disagree with the salesman. The engine and drivetrain are not 'broken-in' or 'pre-shrunk' from the factory. If anything, newer Nissan engines actually take a long time to fully break-in. This is due to Nissan's use of hard chromium faced piston rings.

IMHO, driving at constant speeds on the interstate is not the best for engine break in. For the engine components and transmission to break-in properly, you need to be constantly varying the load on the engine/transmission. This is best done by short bursts of acceleration (several seconds at less than full throttle) followed by several seconds of coasting with your foot off the accelerator. You should also try to vary your speed as much as possible. You can still do this on the interstate if it's not busy. Better yet, plan to take some scenic country roads or roads with less traffic so your constant speed changes won't bother other drivers.

Now for the reason's behind my recommendations:

- The periods of acceleration will load the piston rings and other drivetrain components. This loading causes high spots in the metal to wear away creating a surface were 2 sliding (piston rings) or rotating (bearings) components mesh together perfectly.- The periods of deceleration will allow everything to cool down in between. In the case of piston rings, throttle off deceleration will also create a vacuum within the cylinder drawing oil up through the rings and lubricating them.- Brand new engines have very tight tolerances from the factory. Extended high speed or high rpm operation may cause excessive wear of bearings and other components.

The end result will be better piston ring sealing and avoids excessive component wear. This will give you better fuel economy and slightly more power once the break-in period is complete.

leighle5
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 2008 1:36 pm
Car: 2009 Rogue SL FWD Premium Pkg

Post

Thanks so much! This was def. more helpful than asking the people at the dealership! I don't really understand what they tell me so it's nice to actually know what you are talking about!!
philipa_240sx wrote:IMHO, driving at constant speeds on the interstate is not the best for engine break in.
**I live in New Orleans, La... people here don't know what constant speeds on the interstate are- I'm still not sure everyone here went through some sort of Drivers' Training!!!!! LoL!

Thanks again for your input... hopefully I'll get the call tomorrow and can go pick up my new toy tomorrow!!

Happy New Year!

User avatar
Nick 568
Posts: 304
Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2008 5:59 am
Car: 2008 Nissan Rogue
Location: Anchorage, Alaska

Post

Fyi, I do believe Volvo's are advertised as not needing a break-in period.But naturally, I'd still take it easy. I've purchased small (like under 1 cubic inch displacement small. ) that were supposedly broken-in from the factory, which showed signs they were closer to broken-in than other engines from the factory, but still not quite there.

Superdave54
Posts: 70
Joined: Sat Nov 03, 2007 5:09 am
Car: 2008 Rogue

Post

When I purchased my Rogue, the dealer "advisor" recommended I break the engine on a Castrol Synthetic "blend" (part synthetic and part regular oil). I respectfully disagreed with him, and told him I would break my car in on full synthetic.

I have been a user and a dealer for a line of synthetic oil for years, and between myself and my customers, have broken in many a new engine. A high quality full synthetic is the best oil for break-in and long term use.

Phillipa 240SX gave an excellent technical description of break-in tips, but I would add that you should stay away from high revs (much over 3000 rpm) for the first 3000 miles or so, and get whatever oil and filter you are using changed after the first 1000 miles to get rid of the initial "load" of wear metals that a brand new engine produces.

My Rogue broke in nicely on full synthetic and had completely stopped using oil, signifying piston ring break-in, by 5000 miles. I have just reached 15000 miles, and love the QR25DE engine in my Rogue. Excellent combination of power and economy!

One more thing about your break-in period: transfer cases and rear differentials also break-in. I would change their gear lubes at 3000 miles for the same reason as the engine, to get rid of the intial wear metal load. Your seals will last longer.

leighle5
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 2008 1:36 pm
Car: 2009 Rogue SL FWD Premium Pkg

Post

Thanks for the additional tips! I'm totally new at this and I'm spending a lot of money so I obviously don't want to screw it up when I drive off the lot!!

Just so I'm clear, you're saying have the oil changed to a synthetic at 1000 miles? Or before I leave the dealer? I was planning to have Nissan do the maint. for a while... What should I ask them to do to ensure I'm getting the correct oil?

Thanks!

Superdave54
Posts: 70
Joined: Sat Nov 03, 2007 5:09 am
Car: 2008 Rogue

Post

Nissan may not offer a synthetic. I will check into it though, because many manufacturers (Mercedes, GM (Corvette) specify use of sythetics in their higher-end vehicles. Maybe Nissan specs a synthetic for the 350Z.

I use Amsoil, and do my own maintenance on my Rogue. I do own a Honda, and the local dealer is happy to do my oil changes and put in the Amsoil I give them.

If you are interested in using a synthetic, I would suggest you contact a local Amsoil dealer rather than rely on advice from an auto parts store person who knows practically nothing about synthetic oil, or lubricants at all for that matter. An Amsoil dealer can provide you with the correct specified lubricants, and probably knows local people who can install it for you.

Properly specified and used Amsoil has NEVER voided a manufacturers warantee. Amsoil meets or generally exceeds all manufacturers specifications. If you are willing to give me your zip code (only), I can provide you with contact numbers for your closest local dealers.

Here are the specifed Amsoil products from their website:

2008 NISSAN/DATSUN ROGUE 2.5L 4-cyl Engine Code QR25DE

FILTERS Oil Filter: EAO12 Absolute Efficiency Oil Filter Oil Filter: 51365 WIX 51365 Oil Filter Air Filter: 46044 WIX 46044 Air Filter Cabin Filter: 49352

LUBRICANTS & FLUIDSEngine Oil Grade 1......API* SAE 0W-30 Synthetic Signature Series Oil SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil SAE 5W-30 XL Synthetic Motor OilAll Temps......5W-30Automatic Transmission,CVT.....VTF No AMSOIL Product RecommendationDifferential, Rear .....GL-5 All Temps......80W-90 SAE 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube Severe Gear 75W-90 SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Gear LubeDifferential, Rear .....GL-5 Above 32°C......90 SAE 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube Severe Gear 75W-90 SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Gear LubeTransfer Case,.....GL-5 80W-90 Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90Fluids Brake Fluid.....HB Series 500 High Performance DOT 3 Brake Fluid

CAPACITIESEngine, with filter..........4.9 quarts[1]Cooling System, Initial Fill..........7.7 quartsAMSOIL Antifreeze and Engine Coolant'Automatic Transmission, CVT Initial Fill..........Not SpecifiedAutomatic Transmission, Total Fill CVT..........Not SpecifiedDifferential, Rear..........1.2 pintsTransfer Case,..........0.8 pints

1. After refill check oil level.

TORQUESOil Drain Plug.....22-29 ft-lbsTransfer case Fill Plug.....26 ft-lbs Drain Plug.....26 ft-lbs


Pescakl1
Posts: 685
Joined: Fri May 30, 2008 4:33 am
Car: 2008 Iridium Graphite SL FWD Rogue

Post

Superdave, let me start stating that I love Amsoil products, I am using the EaO13 oil filter (longer version of the EaO12) and I bought a case of them, BUT I will wait until the warranty period is over before using any Amsoil oil except the XL products.

Why? Because even if Amsoil oil exceeds the API norm, they are not API certified (except the XL oil, that is why this line of Amsoil oils exist). And it is specifically indicated in the owner manual that the oil has to be API certified to not void the warranty.

For sure, 99% of Rogue owners will go through without using their warranty, but if you are the unlucky 1%, I wouldn't be you in front of Nissan lawyers explaining that Amsoil oil is as good as dealer oil, even better.

Leighle, Changing oil is the easiest maintenance thing to do on a car. To give you proof, even me is able to do it .If you don't have the space or time to do it, go to your dealer or a mechanic you trust and change your oil following Nissan recommendation with any API certified oil (conventional or synthetic), and your car will go at least 300.000 miles.Superdave recommendations are for people wanting to keep their car 500.000 miles and more, but most people are fed up using the same car after several years, and may be at the time you reach 200.000 miles on your car, the fuel will be too expensive to still use your Rogue.

Search this forum, I put my Used Oil Analysis on display to show that changing factory fill oil at the Nissan recommended interval of 3750 miles didnot change anything. BTW Factory Fill is full synthetic 0w20 oil so it is really a good oil to break in an engine with.

But, like I usually say, It is your car, it is your money, so do whatever you want and don't bother looking back, you did the right choice, whatever it is.

Superdave54
Posts: 70
Joined: Sat Nov 03, 2007 5:09 am
Car: 2008 Rogue

Post

Where did you get your information that Amsoil is not API certified? And, that the XL is the only Amsoil certified and was made for that purpose?

Sorry, but you are incorrect. As a matter of fact, Amsoil was the first API qualified sythetic oil achieving that status in 1972.

The XL line of oil is a synthetic "blend" as opposed to a full synthetic. It was created as a lower cost alternative for people who want to change oil at 7500 miles, as opposed to the full intervals that 100% synthetics are capable of.

I also need to reiterate a point made in my original note. Use of Amsoil will not void your warrantee and will not keep an engine from breaking-in.

The one point I will agree with you on is that the use of high quality synthetics will cause you to either probably be sick of your vehicle before it wears out, or the body will rust away before the engine and drive train wears out.

Pescakl1
Posts: 685
Joined: Fri May 30, 2008 4:33 am
Car: 2008 Iridium Graphite SL FWD Rogue

Post

Superdave54 wrote:Where did you get your information that Amsoil is not API certified? And, that the XL is the only Amsoil certified and was made for that purpose?
So, where is the starbust on the bottle? Can you show us an Amsoil bottle, except the XL line, with the API starbust on?Without the starbust, it is not certified. It can qualified for it, but it is not certified. Nissan asks for an API certified oil, not an API qualified oil (certification mark needed)..
Superdave54 wrote:The XL line of oil is a synthetic "blend" as opposed to a full synthetic. It was created as a lower cost alternative for people who want to change oil at 7500 miles, as opposed to the full intervals that 100% synthetics are capable of.
That is not what other Amsoil dealers said: It is a blend and it is the only one Amsoil paid to be certified to be able to use it during warranty period.
Superdave54 wrote:I also need to reiterate a point made in my original note. Use of Amsoil will not void your warrantee and will not keep an engine from breaking-in.
Use of Amsoil oil, except the XL line, will void your warranty as the oil is not with the API certification mark, read your owner manual for more information. I am not interested to go in court against Nissan Corporate to show them that Amsoil oil is as good as an API certified oil, I don't have the finance for that.
Superdave54 wrote:The one point I will agree with you on is that the use of high quality synthetics will cause you to either probably be sick of your vehicle before it wears out, or the body will rust away before the engine and drive train wears out.
And with Amsoil products, everything will be gone with the engine still running.

User avatar
darylzero
Posts: 1245
Joined: Fri Aug 28, 2009 5:28 am
Car: Nissan Rogue 2009 SL AWD Premium Pkg.

Post

Hi,

I have been reading many post from this great forum and admit I don't know much about cars.

I am getting a new 2009 Rogue AWD SL next week and was wondering what is the best way to break this car in? I have been reading the posts about oil changing and brands to use, AMSOIL seems to be popular. I have heard that Royal Purple is one of the best truly synthetic oils.

I live in Chicago, which will start getting cold in a couple months, don't know if that makes a difference.

So do I need to be changing speeds a lot to break it in? Some were saying drive fast for a little bit then take your foot off the pedal for a little bit.

Thanks!
Last edited by Rogue One on Tue Jan 15, 2019 7:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Merged with existing thread

User avatar
kerrton
Posts: 2201
Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2008 8:48 am
Car: 2008 Nissan Rogue SL FWD Gotham Gray
Location: Southern Alberta, Canada

Post

I'd recommend following the manufacturers break-in procedure exactly, and most other on this forum have recommended this as well.

philipa_240sx
Posts: 4138
Joined: Thu Jun 21, 2007 7:30 am
Location: Canada

Post

The manual describes it pretty well. See pg 5-20

A few notes:

- Vary your speed a lot and avoid long distance highway driving- Leave the factory oil in until the recommended first oil change interval. It's a very high quality oil.

User avatar
darylzero
Posts: 1245
Joined: Fri Aug 28, 2009 5:28 am
Car: Nissan Rogue 2009 SL AWD Premium Pkg.

Post

Thanks, haven't seen the manual yet as I don't have the car yet, but will check it out.

philipa_240sx
Posts: 4138
Joined: Thu Jun 21, 2007 7:30 am
Location: Canada

Post

darylzero wrote:Thanks, haven't seen the manual yet as I don't have the car yet, but will check it out.
Take a look at the Official Rogue FAQ. Look at the Facts & Information section at the top and you will find links to the online version of the owners manual.

Read up before you even get your Rogue!

RogueGuy45
Posts: 99
Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2009 10:15 am
Car: 2015 Nissan Rogue SL AWD
Location: Woodbury, Minnesota

Post

I agree with Philip about the varying your speed. A simple way to do this is simply do not use your cruise control for the first 500 miles or so.

Brakes are another issue. Try to avoid hard braking for the first 250 miles or so. I can't remember the reason but I think it has something to do with setting the discs and pads so they work smoothly with each other.

I have almost 5000 miles on my Rogue and it has been nothing but a pleasure. Have fun!

RogueGuy45
Posts: 99
Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2009 10:15 am
Car: 2015 Nissan Rogue SL AWD
Location: Woodbury, Minnesota

Post

kerrton wrote:I'd recommend following the manufacturers break-in procedure exactly, and most other on this forum have recommended this as well.
Hey, way to stick your neck out there! JK

skholla
Posts: 52
Joined: Sat Aug 29, 2009 8:18 am
Car: 09 Nissan Rogue SL, 97 Acura EL

Post

MotoMan completely disagrees with auto manufacturer's recommendations. It makes sense to me, what do you guys think?

Check it out... http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

philipa_240sx
Posts: 4138
Joined: Thu Jun 21, 2007 7:30 am
Location: Canada

Post

skholla wrote:MotoMan completely disagrees with auto manufacturer's recommendations. It makes sense to me, what do you guys think?
I read that one a couple of years ago. IMHO, I think there is a bit of truth to it. But realize he is talking about motorcycle and racing engines mainly. He also does not address is the break-in process for the rest of the drive train. Doing his recommended break-in (full throttle runs) at low mileage could create unforeseen issues in the transmission, etc.

I sided with Nissan engineers... and followed their recommendations. However I added lots of stop and go driving, no cruise/constant speed, no highway, no long distance driving. I tried to vary speed and throttle as much as possible to keep loading/unloading the motor, varying CVT ratio's etc. But I did not rev past 4000rpm nor did I use full throttle. I would strongly recommend this same procedure to anyone.

skholla
Posts: 52
Joined: Sat Aug 29, 2009 8:18 am
Car: 09 Nissan Rogue SL, 97 Acura EL

Post

i hear ya worrying about the rest of the drivetrain, i got a new rogue 2 weeks ago and am currently breaking it in. im 1400 kms in to a 2000km break in, for the first 1000 km i drove it pretty easy as per the manual and for the last few hundred kms ive thrown in some short high rev driving. ive been turning OD off and allowing the engine to rev up to 3000-4000 rpms while driving, also driving in L for short bursts with mid throttle revving up to 4000 rpms. ive also done some down hill driving with OD off revving the engine to 4000 rpm.

this week i will continue regular stop and go city driving and try to rack on another 500 kms before the long weekend. i will be driving from vancouver down to seattle and want to make sure that the breakin process is complete before hitting the highway for 3 hours. once i hit the 2000 km mark i might do some more high rev driving, maybe short bursts revving up to 5000 rpms. and then once i hit the 3000 km mark i will try some short bursts up to 6000 rpms. philipa_240sx, whats your thought on this???

philipa_240sx
Posts: 4138
Joined: Thu Jun 21, 2007 7:30 am
Location: Canada

Post

skholla wrote:philipa_240sx, whats your thought on this???
Sounds fine to me.

AznJohn22
Posts: 210
Joined: Thu Jun 26, 2008 7:08 am
Car: 08 Nissan Rogue

Post

I never realize there was a "break in period" for cars. hope i didn't mess up my engine.

philipa_240sx
Posts: 4138
Joined: Thu Jun 21, 2007 7:30 am
Location: Canada

Post

AznJohn22 wrote:I never realize there was a "break in period" for cars. hope i didn't mess up my engine.
You should be fine. The biggest thing it to vary your speed, ie. driving in the city.

takeshi
Posts: 313
Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2009 9:55 am
Car: 2008 Nissan Rogue SL AWD
Location: Houston, TX

Post

AznJohn22 wrote:I never realize there was a "break in period" for cars. hope i didn't mess up my engine.
Check out the manual sometime...


Return to “Rogue Forum”