rods?????where did you get them

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
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tnslide80
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well since my last post was locked with no reply.. .....i will ask again where do you guys suggest getting rods???thanks


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themadscientist
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http://www.importperformancepa....html

boost_boy
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If you're really interested in getting aftermarket rods, then these are the way to go for the price. Theonly other immediate options are Pauter and Carrillo and they both are obviously more expensive with the carrillos costing around $1000. Hopefully this sheds some light on your previous thread.

Dee

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themadscientist
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tnslide80
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thanks guys......now as far as rod bolts go has anyone had the rods tapped out to accept bigger bolts........and what all do you have done to your ca dee?...btw i love this forum

kapower06
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after market rods don't need differnt bolts they come with good ones

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float_6969
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I think he's talking about the stockers and no, AFAIK, nobody has modified the stock rods to accept larger rod bolts.

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Black on Gold
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boost_boy
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tnslide80 wrote:thanks guys......now as far as rod bolts go has anyone had the rods tapped out to accept bigger bolts........and what all do you have done to your ca dee?...btw i love this forum
No tapping of the rods for bigger/better bolts. My white sentra's CA has 264/272 camshaft combo, heavy duty VG30DETT valve springs, stock retainers, stock head (but soon to be changed to an heavily ported unit), CP pistons (standard bore), stock rods (re-shotpeened), bottom end align-bored, re-sized crank, new oil pump, new bearings, cometic 1.2mm h/g, ARP head studs, MSD 72lb/hr injectors, and this lump is managed by an SDS EM-3F standalone with spark being enhanced by an MSD DIS-2 ignition box. Boost is controlled via a Blitz dual SBC and timed by a blitz dual turbo timer. Intercooler is a custom piece, pipes are custom, fuel is pumped by a Walbro 255lph pump, transmission is custom, axles are custom, and a bunch of other crap as well.

My built CA (still on engine stand x4 years) comsists of standard bore Wiseco pistons, Pauter rods, ARP mains, ARP head studs, NISMO 1.2mm H/G, Jun 272 10.5mm cams (both), JUN solid lifters, JUN valve springs, 3 angle valve job, meticulous headwork to make sure the cam lobes clear the head, the head is heavily ported and polished, Tomei Cam gears, New oil pump, New bearings, polished crank, Custom intake plenum with butterfly plates removed and it too will be powered by an SDS EM4F standalone engine management system. Hope this answers your questions. If you're not looking to do over 400whp, I wouldn't sweat the rods too much.

Dee

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float_6969
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It's not so much the HP level as the revs.

High HP isn't going to stretch the rod bolts, revs do.

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tnslide80
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im looking for a fair amount of power and it will be reving pretty high cause i do slide my car from time to time when i can afford to hit an event.....so i want it to be pretty strong and reliable.....im shooting for 400ish + not sure if i'll hit it but it should be stout anyways....dee my build up is pretty close to what u described on ur stand...what kinda numbers are expecting with all that...also removing butterflys....would u suggest that i know thats a big mod in the KA world....

boost_boy
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tnslide80 wrote:im looking for a fair amount of power and it will be reving pretty high cause i do slide my car from time to time when i can afford to hit an event.....so i want it to be pretty strong and reliable.....im shooting for 400ish + not sure if i'll hit it but it should be stout anyways....dee my build up is pretty close to what u described on ur stand...what kinda numbers are expecting with all that...also removing butterflys....would u suggest that i know thats a big mod in the KA world....
The engine on the stand has a goal of a round 700whp! It'll either do it or explode while trying. I have all the ingredients, but again this will boil down to my tuning and how willing the parts will to stay inside that hot block . It's just a goal and that goal is nearing the $10,000 mark and is nowhere near ready to go; but then again, I'm not really interested in using this engine yet. My first priority is to try and make the white sentra run the 1320 in 10seconds whilst being fully loaded. This oughta be interesting..............

Dee

dash
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I can't imagine what you'd wanna do with a ca18 that hasn't been detailed 10 x over on sxoc. I'd swipe a successful, reliable combo from there and 'run wit it'.Lots use stock cams & bottom end for 300+, no need for high revs.If you must rev, I'd study ca18 cams carefully to see what actually works, how well & how much $$$$. Gets costly as u meet MR. "law of diminishing returns".

A fully equipped 10sec street B12 is quite a milestone. There is a 10.8sec fwd street corolla on aussie forums, powered by a 1.8L toyota 4/7AG hybrid. Stock blacktop 20V head(thats right, oe cams!) and a t3/t04E @27psi. I believe it was "pump gas" too iirc!It would be interesting to compare note on similar cars.

boost_boy
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I know it's possible, but suspension components, slicks, and the driver is going to make all the difference. The suspension is there, the slicks are here, but the driver is the one that needs the work. It's a goal that I must accomplish as I would like to have the first known FWD CA18DET powered B12 sentra into the 10s unstripped. And this must be accomplished before I can even begin on the drag sentra. But once that goal is accomplished, I won't hesitate to unleash the other beast that been staging for so many years.

And that corolla owner must be proud of that accomplishment as well . Thanks for the motivating tid-bit "dash"..........

Dee

dash
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you'd never suspect a 10.8 from this... even looks sorta b12-ish

...and the beast. Serious effort. China turbo at that iirc!http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2131056/


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themadscientist
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AE92 Levin with a boosted 20-valve 4AG. That is ****in schweet!


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