rods rods rods!

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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krayton
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so quick questions. does anyone know if the rb26 rod is the same as the rb25 rod?

eagle, crower and one more company only list the rb26 rod. are they one in the same?????


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eh?
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R33 rb25 same no, same specs yes.R34 RB25 has RB26 rods.

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krayton
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eh? wrote:R33 rb25 same no, same specs yes.R34 RB25 has RB26 rods.
sounds good.

but to clarify for my slow girlfriend.

yes, you can use the rb26 rods on the rb25 crank and block?

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eh?
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Yes you can use RB26 rods in the RB25.There was a good deal on ebay for Eagle rods+ wiseco pistons for only $1075 a few days ago...

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krayton
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why do all the rod companies think that the rb26 rod wont work in the rb25??

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eh?
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Did they specify a reason?

Darius
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The FSM shows the RB25, RB25DET, and RB26 share the same lower connecting rod large end inside diameter, connecting rod small end inside diameter, piston pin outer diameter, and piston pin diameter. The RB25DET and RB6 piston outer diameters are between 85.975-86.005 and 85.965-85.985, respectively (depending on grade number, of course). I thought the rods were the same length dimensions, but correct me if I'm wrong.

kontradictions
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give me a call 949-498-1800, my name is chris. i work at Carrillo. turn around time is about 5-6 weeks. part number DA-RB2>-64783H-00

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Chaos the Xile
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Those sets are still there just search "R33 Skyline" and they will pop up for the RB25 and Rb26 $1075 is a steal for that set up. Tomei Pistons cost more than those two combined!

While we are on the RB25 Block can you use a RB26 crank w/ RB25 Rods and stock bore pistons?

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eh?
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Chaos the Xile wrote:Those sets are still there just search "R33 Skyline" and they will pop up for the RB25 and Rb26 $1075 is a steal for that set up. Tomei Pistons cost more than those two combined!

While we are on the RB25 Block can you use a RB26 crank w/ RB25 Rods and stock bore pistons?
You would have to use RB26 pistons if you use the RB26 crank.

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krayton
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eh? wrote:Did they specify a reason?
no reason that i know of. im going through a dealer. they just asked if the rb26 rod will work and they say no.

beats me why they dont think itll work. was just curious. they just tell me i can buy it, but its at my own risk.

chris, how much are those rods going for? the few that ive seen are a nice chunk of change. and as much as id like those it seems like overkill for my final hp goal

kontradictions
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krayton wrote:chris, how much are those rods going for? the few that ive seen are a nice chunk of change. and as much as id like those it seems like overkill for my final hp goal
retail pricing on a set of the RB rods is $1500-$1800 depending on the bolt type you want to go with for the H-beams, A-beams are around $1200 and our new SA-beams are around $1300.

takaramotors
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eagle rods for 750 shipped

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eh?
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takaramotors wrote:eagle rods for 750 shipped
Is that for 12 rods? Because the msrp on eagles website is $600 and you could find a set for $450...

takaramotors
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really let me check and make sure that price is right sorry 550 plus shipping

kontradictions
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takaramotors wrote:eagle rods for 750 shipped
Eagle Rods < Carrillo Rods

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krayton
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kontradictions wrote:Eagle Rods < Carrillo Rods
they really are, but most of our hp goals arent gonna be 1000hp+

wish could afford those, but eagles are gonna do the job for less then half the price

takaramotors
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BTW krayton everything came in OK

98birdls1
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Honestly, from the research I've done on the Aussie forums and such, refreshed stock rods should be good to 500whp+. I have yet to see an actual case of stock rod failure.

I plan to get my stock 25 rods shotpeened and beam polished and I'm confident that they will be fine for my power goal of 500rwhp+.

I've also been doing some research into cryo treating, which is a fairly new idea for automotive industry. Still reading up on that though.

Luke

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Dano
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98birdls1 wrote:
I've also been doing some research into cryo treating, which is a fairly new idea for automotive industry. Still reading up on that though.

Luke
Not that new, but yes, definately worth your time to read into it and see if you can benefit from it for the cost... cryo treating is the shiz.

-Dan

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eh?
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98birdls1 wrote:Honestly, from the research I've done on the Aussie forums and such, refreshed stock rods should be good to 500whp+. I have yet to see an actual case of stock rod failure.

I plan to get my stock 25 rods shotpeened and beam polished and I'm confident that they will be fine for my power goal of 500rwhp+.

I've also been doing some research into cryo treating, which is a fairly new idea for automotive industry. Still reading up on that though.

Luke
All or most nissan rods are already factory shot peened but i agree with the rest of your post. I myself went with the stock rods- polished with arp bolts.

If anything go with rb26 rods, polished+arp bolts I'd feel safe with them up to 700whp..

Darius
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This might be a little off topic, but I bought a set of RB26 rods and pistons for my RB25. How does one pick out bearing thickness? I see oversized and undersized, but don't know exactly what that means for my application. Can someone provide a little input on this?

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eh?
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There is a table in the FSM where you cross reference the rod diameter to the crank journal to get the bearing size.

98birdls1
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Darius, your machine shop should definately be able to choose the correct sizes based on their measurements and what they find in the FSM.

Eh, if you can point me to a source on the factory shot-peening I'd appreciate it, make me feel alot better about using the stockers.

Dan, guess I meant new to me. I really haven't been able to find much hard facts about the before and after. Still looking.

Luke

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Carl H
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Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX SE RB30DET

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you'll notice that all motor failures are piston related and very rarely are rod related...aftermarket rods are good for their durability as well as their peace of mind they offer.i plan to reuse my stock conrods and have them fitted with arp hardware and cleaned up, should see me to 500rwhp with out a problem. well i hope so atleast...

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sil_eightyRPS13
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usually the rod bearing is the first to go on the RB ive witnessed 2 in the last week...one was mine....

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Carl H
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sil_eightyRPS13 wrote:usually the rod bearing is the first to go on the RB ive witnessed 2 in the last week...one was mine....
have you modded the oiling system?thats usualy the problem as well as the crank collar issue and ill baffling in the pan.

Sky240PWR
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eh? wrote:
You would have to use RB26 pistons if you use the RB26 crank.
I have a RB25DET, and I'm going to building it to hold betweem 500-600whp, if I wanted to use the RB26 pistons and crank, what's everything I will need to make that work?

Darius
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Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

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You will need the RB26 pistons, rods, and crank and that's it. You may need a crank collar depending on the year of your RB26 crank. Most if not all R33's had the problem cleared up. They are a direct bolt in since the blocks share the same deck height.

I have found that the RB25 and 26 pistons are only different in the hight and width of the raised portion (RB25-taller narrower, RB26 shorter-wider), in the pin placement, and ring distance. The pin sits higher in the RB26 piston which will effectively lower compression even further if used with the RB25 crank. I am planning on using the RB26 rods and pistons w/ RB25 crank since I had both my head and block decked and don't think raising the compression ratio higher than 9:1 is a good idea. I'll keep everybody posted on how it works out.

Sky240PWR
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I won't be rebuilding mine till winter, I have PT67 turbo, HKS manifold and wastegate sitting in my room, I also have a greddy intake and ported head(not on car) my goal is 550-600whp, do you think it's worth the time and money going with the RB26 pistons, rods, and crank? or am I better off going with forged rods and pistons for the RB25?

keep us posted with your setup, I can't wait till you get her done.


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