Rod Knock or Collapsed Lifter???

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
driftin8ez
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I was driving my car last night and every once and a while at a stop light it would start to misfire but very predictable so it was definitely a sticking injector or one of my coil packs going out. I though nothing of it drove home lightly and parked it. Today i go to take it out for a spin and i starts doing the same thing so i turn around. I got stuck at some hour long light and while i was just idling their with my car sounding like a wrx from the misfire it just started ticking/knocking real loud like a mac truck. I took a video that is processing on you tube right now. I'm hoping it's just a collapsed lifter and not a rod bearing. Also in the begining of the video it revs fine then it starts to do the wrx misfire and cuts off unless i rev it.

Stay tuned for a video link!


driftin8ez
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Ok video is up:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrfxE8DjHF0

If you want me to take a longer one let me know. I didn't want to leave it running for too long.

boost_boy
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driftin8ez wrote:Ok video is up:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrfxE8DjHF0

If you want me to take a longer one let me know. I didn't want to leave it running for too long.
Does it smoke? It could be many things like, but not limited to:

Spun rod bearing

Melted piston (I like this one)

Broken camshaft

Dee

driftin8ez
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no smoke... at all. When it started to happen the car was at idle. I drove it no more than a 1/2 mile at 25 miles an hour. I pulled my intake side valve cover and the cam looked ok. I didn't check the exhaust yet. Dee there is no way it could be a collapsed lifter? Also would i be possible to change the rod bearing without removing the engine? I have a lift i could use for a weekend.

Here is a slightly longer video showing my boost gauge, oil press. gauge, rpm. Then some revving with a ****ty misfire.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWbFLtn4jqw
Modified by driftin8ez at 3:41 PM 7/26/2007

boost_boy
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Sou
driftin8ez wrote:no smoke... at all. When it started to happen the car was at idle. I drove it no more than a 1/2 mile at 25 miles an hour. I pulled my intake side valve cover and the cam looked ok. I didn't check the exhaust yet. Dee there is no way it could be a collapsed lifter? Also would i be possible to change the rod bearing without removing the engine? I have a lift i could use for a weekend.

Here is a slightly longer video showing my boost gauge, oil press. gauge, rpm. Then some revving with a ****ty misfire.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWbFLtn4jqw

Modified by driftin8ez at 3:41 PM 7/26/2007
Sounds shytti! I seriously doubt if it's even in the head. Remove the ornament cover and start removing the coilpack harness connectors to determine which cylinder is causing you the problem. But it definitely sounds like something in the bottom end. I recommend removing the engine and tearing it down because your problem is going to be waaay more than just changing the bearings.

Dee

driftin8ez
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Ya I'm pretty sure it's a dead coil. I did that already and the engine sounded the same when i removed the harness from coil 4. Then i switch coil 3&4 and it moved to cylinder 3. So i sounds like a dead coil because if it was an injector it would have stayed at cylinder 4.

well look like the old s13 is coming off insurance today.

Masterdebater
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ouch....mine did something similar and i pulled coils to find the cylinder but i was lucky to find out that my flywheel bolts had nearly come all the way out!!! but urs is in the engine because its idling shyty too...pull the exhaust cover off and check in there too just so u know how it looks in there. sry to hear this man thats terrible...by allmy shyt off me and u wont have to rebuid!!!then ull have 3 engines to work with/sell lol. hope it all works out for u man...check the oil pan and see how much metal uve grinded off

driftin8ez
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well see the thing is that if i fix what ever is making the car miss fire it will idle perfect and not smoke. I though if you spun a bearing you could just pull the pan and access the rod ends from there. It's ghetto but at least it will be fix. I really only drove it for like a 1/2 mile like that and i started making the noise while idling at a light. I'm already in the middle of building another long block so if i could just replace the bearings and band aid it for another few months then i will have my fresh rebuild ready to install.

Logan76
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This happened to me when one of the clips on the coil pack broke and the plug fell out, you would be lucky if it was something that simple.

ca18det240hatch
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i GUARANTEE thats rod knock, my engine made that same sound when i melted #3 bearing.


driftin8ez
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I don't get it though. I got barely 1/2 mile from my house the car was not even warmed up fully. I have new 20w-50 oil in it. And i was just idling at a stop light. How could i have melted/spun a bearing? Also couldn't i just do a bearing slap and get the thing back on the road for a few months just until my other motor is fully built?

ca18datsun510
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who'd you get your engine from?

warranty?

the whole bearing swap thing is sketchy. once you lose one beaing you start getting oil pressure drops, etc which is gonna affect your other bearing etc.

pull the engine, pull the pan, inspect every thing, plasti gauge it etc.

you are almost better off just getting a beater and paking it till your other engine is done.

ca18det240hatch
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Nop you cant just slap a bearing in. If its knocking like that, the journal on your crank is gonna be cooked/scored up to hell. U may as well do a whole rebuild. And man, it doesnt take more than 10 seconds for a rod to melt. I was on my way back home from work one day when mine did. My ca was stong as hell...no signs of weakness, just dirty oil when it got here. I was on the way home...i feel the car losing power, like im going into the wind but theres no wind, then i hear the knock, then i pull over and shut er down.

when i took off the oilpan. it was sooo sludgy in there i proly could have scraped enuff to fill a coke bottle.

good luck with er man

driftin8ez
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ca18datsun510 wrote:who'd you get your engine from?

warranty?

the whole bearing swap thing is sketchy. once you lose one beaing you start getting oil pressure drops, etc which is gonna affect your other bearing etc.

pull the engine, pull the pan, inspect every thing, plasti gauge it etc.

you are almost better off just getting a beater and paking it till your other engine is done.
I've had the motor for almost exactly one year now. I got it from Dee. I think my warranty is up by now. LOL. Also i got a beater and my 240 is gunna be parked till may. I will build up a killer CA over the winter and swap her in, in the spring. It was a good run. This time it will do it the right way. I'm going to have a lot of question about what to buy seeing as this will be my first full rebuild so bear with me and i promise i wont disappoint. I see you guys in the spring.

Later,Mike

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r34 gtr
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1: pull oil pan2: pull rod caps3: replace bearings4: replace stuff

i really dont think youll have any problems if you change the bearings in the car. i did it in a jeep and the thing hasnt missed a beat. you may not want to go around racing people but it should make it several months of relatively easy driving. this is assuming nothing is terribly wrong elsewhere, and its definitely worth a check, but im gonna go against everyone else and say itll work and youll be fine.

Masterdebater
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yea i did that in an auto class few years ago.someone brought in a ford taurus or a saturn, one of those lol. had a knock coming from it so the pan was dropped, turned the crank to show which bearing was shot, changed it and all was well. so it is possible but like r34 said, it wont be too reliable cuz ur crank is more than likely scored and needs to be polished and use an oversize bearing.

driftin8ez
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I found a good long block from one of our CA brothers in upstate, NY. I'll pick that up slap it in. I'll be back on the road then I'll have to figure out what im going to do with the two other long blocks i have. I'll prob part one out and keep building the other.

ca18datsun510
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what a swell guy.

driftin8ez
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Ya you should meet him some day... LOLz

OMG this is my 1000 Post!!! I wanted to make a super awesome picture/Video thread of my car for my 1000 but now with the **** i guess I'll just have to wait for maybe 1500 or some other mile stone.

Oh well I guess i'll party anyway!

BTW: anyone know if it is the KA-E or the KA-DE clutch that can be used on the CA. It has been so long since i did this.

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r34 gtr
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the de clutch is 225mm, which is what the ca uses i believe.

ca18datsun510
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the e and de clutch disc and pp are the same.

its the throw out bearing that is different and causes a different part number for clutch kits.

oooooh.

driftin8ez
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Oh thats weird... Is the de t/o bearing thicker? Maybe that is why my clutch grabs all the way at the top even when it was brand new. Maybe ill give the sohc bearing a try this time. I have a dohc t/o bearing in my car with only about 10k on it so if the sohc one looks like it wont work ill just reuse my old t/o bearing.

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ch187
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sr flywheel/clutch ftw. i love it in mine. saw once that its 240mm but i cant remember its been too long.

driftin8ez
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ch187 wrote:sr flywheel/clutch ftw. i love it in mine. saw once that its 240mm but i cant remember its been too long.
What clutch and flywheel are you using? Stock SR or lightened?

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ch187
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stock flywheel, clutch and bolts. with my original CA starter. i wasnt sure how it would pan out but its a killer setup. never slipped for me and i think its seen at least 220lb ft. im getting ready to finish my gt28r at 1bar and i'll let you know how it holds up then

driftin8ez
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What did you have to do to the starter to get it to work? Also what type of clearanceing did you have to do to the CA bell housing? I have a lightweight sr flywheel and an exedy oem replacement sr clutch coming in the mail so i need to know what i should do for the trans and starter.

driftin8ez
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Well i got motor out of the car and i found out the problem..... I'm about 95% it was a dead injector along with the fact that my turbo was nearly completely unbolted from the manifold. I cant believe i didnt check that before pulling the whole motor out. LOL. Oh well... Live and Learn.

sr20detconv
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My engine did make that sound also. Really loud and sounded like a collapsed lifters and after a few minute like a knock un the bottom end.Finally it was the P/S pump.That thing was knocking!!!!

And,I really want to know about that sr20 flywheel clutch story. My friends has a sr20 flywheel laying in is garage. It's just,put the sr20 fluwheel and clutch and you are ready to go?

Logan76
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driftin8ez wrote:Maybe that is why my clutch grabs all the way at the top even when it was brand new.
Mine did that when I had the exedy clutch on there from JDM land, then I pulled it I put a Spec stg 3+ in it. Not too many people know but when you have your flywheel resurfaced it IS stepped, which if it isnt when you install your new clutch could cause it to engage clear at the top, mine doesnt anymore but it did before...


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