Rod bearing replacement +

[BLKONBLKS14]

Hey anyone know of a good thread on replacing rod bearings for DOHC s14 KA24DE?dropped my oil pan and i have small silver metal shavings in oil pan. ...Any help would be great..my car is sitting with the valve cover and top timing chain cover off and crossmember and sway bar as well as oil pan still dropped just sitting PLEASE HELP!!!!!getting rod bearings sent and gunna get Haynes manuel and give it a try.My first rod bearing change but im not a novice but certainly not an expert.Wish me luck and PLEASE HELP!!!thanks

Modified by BLKONBLKS14 at 4:00 PM 12/16/2009
Modified by BLKONBLKS14 at 4:01 PM 12/16/2009

[bens240sx]

well i am geussing you didnt spin it ihad a oil pum go recently and mad the mistake of not checking the other bearings for wear okay step on get your self 4 smal boxes label them 1-4 then pull cyl 1 put the parts in box 1 ext. now go to a engie shop and buy some sand paper cloth for polishing the crank do it to all 4 and start on the bad one to get the feel if you never have done one now also pick up som plastic gauge and take the time to do this and if your questionable one the oil pump take the step and check it out now you will also need a new oil filter and now getting to putting it to gether

1 . polish crank2. lube crank and bearing then put cyl 1 top bearing in then pull piston down on to top bearing3. put bottom bearing in rod cap and lube then install 4. repeat for the rest of the cyl 5. go through and torque caps 6. re check torques7.instal what you have appart8. spin engine by HAND about 100 revolutions 9. start do not rev let heat up a lil then shut down 10. after leting cool down then engine warm up shut dwn and let cool 11. start let warm up andthen go for a lazy drive

if your crank looks really bad pull it and have it totaly machine shop polished

hope this help

[BLKONBLKS14]

when you say lube the crank and bearings you mean with like 10W30(what i use for oil)or another lube?someone told me i should us straight 30weight for oil after the bearing replacement, is this a good idea?thanks

[bens240sx]

hen i say lube you wanna get i think its called engine rebuild lube autozone will have it get some of that and run str8 40 wt. to start the more lubracation you have the better if its not to cold where you are start with 50 wt. then go with 30 wt. after bout 1000 miles then after bout 3000 you can begian normal oil that you use

[BLKONBLKS14]

thanks ill look into the lube.ill be taking pictures and posting a thread on my "adventure" wish me luck. unless there is already one up on replacing rod bearings?thanks

[bens240sx]

no theres n write ups on it i would be nice if there was bc i didnt know if i had to pull the engine to do it or if i was able to pule it from underneath

[pungkiteater_671]

would be easier if u just pull out the motor and do a rebuild since ur down there already ...

[bens240sx]

well if your compression in the cylnders was between 175 and 180 then i would jus do the bearings but if you got the money i woul go with a bore out and new pistons and rings and bearings rod and crank and also new oil pump

[BLKONBLKS14]

Compression in all 4 cylinders is good(first thing i checked) so im just gunna do the rod bearings. I live in a two bedroom condo so i dont have a garage to do all my work in so its out in the parking lot with a car cover on it.My work is gunna be stalled for a while cause we just got about 10" of snow and its still coming down!!!already have the new gaskets(valve cover...)and lube and went ahead and got the new oil pump and replaced it yesterday. im gunna use straight 30W for the first 2000miles or so and then stick with my usual 10W30 there on. got oil treatment as well made by Lucas so when this snow stops i gotta plow my car out good and get to work. I know getto but im not rich and i have bills to pay and i just want my baby fixed.asuming this bearing job goes well ive got a catback and a cold air intake in the works, car is completely stock right now except for megan rear upper control arms.well thanks for the input all.wish me luck!!

[bens240sx]

yeah i hear you on thesnow thing sucks lol yeah i would jus do the rod bearing then

[liquid_cool]

where to start on this.....some parts of these post are correct..but most are not....to do this the correct way..you will need to pull the crank/rods with pistons..and remove your head..might aswell do a rebuild too...

you are going to need a few tools your not acustomed to using..

T-style expandable guages..for mesuring the diamiter or the inside of rods/cylinders ect....there easy to use..just push them in..then insert in the hole to mesure..release the little lock..they pop open and you lock them in-place...then you mesure that with a dial or digital caliper..

you mesure the inside of each rod whith the caps torqed in place to see if the rod inside bearing area is oval'd out or not.

then u allso mesure the bearing area's on the crank..to see if there out of round with you digital or dial caliper...you need to mesure in 6 different places on each rod and bearing area to see if the diamiter changes..

then you will place new bearings and use Plasti-gauge to check clearence and match it upto you FSM to see if your in spec..this is only if your original mesurement is acceptable to FSM standards.

if there is change past OEM spec..then you will need a machine shop..or new crank and rods...the machine shop option will require you to buy oversize thick bearings..keep that in mind...

Now for the assembly...(main and rod bearings only..follow crank install per FSM).

you must use a (pre-lube)..dont get talked into just motor oil...its a hit or miss with that..you can buy many engine assembly lubricants...i myself only trust (Torco) MPZ cam lube...its oil saluable..."disipates in oil"..some use royal purples lube..but for me its to thin and runny..MPZ stays where ya put it...remeber that when the motor first starts..there is NO oil running throu the cams/crank and system to prevent you from burning your new bearings and you cam caps up....ill leave this open ended for others to chime in and add to this ..i kept this as simple as i could..but i do recomend you to read "Engine Blueprinting" SA brand book at your local bookstore..it explains this procedure in detail...good luck.

[bens240sx]

where to start on this.....some parts of these post are correct..but most are not....to do this the correct way..you will need to pull the crank/rods with pistons..and remove your head..might aswell do a rebuild too...

you are going to need a few tools your not acustomed to using..

T-style expandable guages..for mesuring the diamiter or the inside of rods/cylinders ect....there easy to use..just push them in..then insert in the hole to mesure..release the little lock..they pop open and you lock them in-place...then you mesure that with a dial or digital caliper..

you mesure the inside of each rod whith the caps torqed in place to see if the rod inside bearing area is oval'd out or not.

then u allso mesure the bearing area's on the crank..to see if there out of round with you digital or dial caliper...you need to mesure in 6 different places on each rod and bearing area to see if the diamiter changes..

then you will place new bearings and use Plasti-gauge to check clearence and match it upto you FSM to see if your in spec..this is only if your original mesurement is acceptable to FSM standards.

if there is change past OEM spec..then you will need a machine shop..or new crank and rods...the machine shop option will require you to buy oversize thick bearings..keep that in mind...

Now for the assembly...(main and rod bearings only..follow crank install per FSM).

you must use a (pre-lube)..dont get talked into just motor oil...its a hit or miss with that..you can buy many engine assembly lubricants...i myself only trust (Torco) MPZ cam lube...its oil saluable..."disipates in oil"..some use royal purples lube..but for me its to thin and runny..MPZ stays where ya put it...remeber that when the motor first starts..there is NO oil running throu the cams/crank and system to prevent you from burning your new bearings and you cam caps up....ill leave this open ended for others to chime in and add to this ..i kept this as simple as i could..but i do recomend you to read "Engine Blueprinting" SA brand book at your local bookstore..it explains this procedure in detail...good luck.

les see yu jus went over everything and he didnt spin it so there should be minimal danmage and thats why you polish and there is no reason to pull the pistons they push up and pull down and the pre lube was already told and to do the spec of fsm thats the plastic gauge i am ase certified in engine rebuild everyhing i told is true and i jus got done doing the exact thing to two ka's so i am def sure what i told is correct

[BLKONBLKS14]

i have a sound bite of what my motor sounds like but idk how to post it. someone told me an experienced tech could tell whats up just by listening to the motor?help me out yall!!!gunna do the rod bearing change tomorrow morning gunna take pics and all and ive check out under the engine and you for sure can do the rod bearing change without pulling the motor or crank..i was stupid at first and had my car in first gear while tryin to spin the crank and was like "WTF" why is it so hard to spin???then came to light that i should use my brain a bit. Hopefully everything works out. wish me luck guys
Modified by BLKONBLKS14 at 2:59 PM 12/26/2009

[bens240sx]

lol yeah that would be a bit hard to spin lol sure we all been there alright have fn hope the wather is decent for yeah

[liquid_cool]

les see yu jus went over everything and he didnt spin it so there should be minimal danmage and thats why you polish and there is no reason to pull the pistons they push up and pull down and the pre lube was already told and to do the spec of fsm thats the plastic gauge i am ase certified in engine rebuild everyhing i told is true and i jus got done doing the exact thing to two ka's so i am def sure what i told is correct

your an engine mechanic?....he's replacing the bearings due to a rod knock noise correct?..why wouldent you recomend more investigation? what if the rod caps on the crank side have weakend and are ovald?..then he will be doing this again in 3 monthes when he changes his oil....i dont slap things back together and hope there good....i make shure there good the first time....and i will never recomend slapping things together on this forum for the sake of time...yes you can change a bearing without pulling the head or crank...but why would you? if you allready know you have an issue after many miles of use and abuse...if its done rite the first time...he will have some good years of fun out of that power plant....if not...this will be a repeate post in a few as to what went wrong.

[BLKONBLKS14]

YEAH ROD BEARING REPLACEMENT CANCELED, MY CRANKSHAFT IS NOT OK AND MY RODS ARE NO GOOD EITHER(OVALED)ROD TO PISTON CONNECTION HAS PLAY ON 1ST CYLINDER SO IM JUST GOIN FOR THE MOTOR REPLACEMENT. THANKS FOR ALL THE ADVICE EVERYONE.

[liquid_cool]

YEAH ROD BEARING REPLACEMENT CANCELED, MY CRANKSHAFT IS NOT OK AND MY RODS ARE NO GOOD EITHER(OVALED)ROD TO PISTON CONNECTION HAS PLAY ON 1ST CYLINDER SO IM JUST GOIN FOR THE MOTOR REPLACEMENT. THANKS FOR ALL THE ADVICE EVERYONE.

your welcome bro...sorry to hear about that thou...but for those pushing the qwick way..here is a perfect example of why you do it the rite way...

blkonblks14....nice investigation finding your issue btw...good work.

[Rev_D21]

les see yu jus went over everything and he didnt spin it so there should be minimal danmage and thats why you polish and there is no reason to pull the pistons they push up and pull down and the pre lube was already told and to do the spec of fsm thats the plastic gauge i am ase certified in engine rebuild everyhing i told is true and i jus got done doing the exact thing to two ka's so i am def sure what i told is correct

ASE as in Ask Someone Else?

I'll always vote for a proper blueprint. I am just a sucker for doing things right and thorough. Sorry to hear your crank isn't good. Nice work figuring it out! Taking that extra moment to investigate paid off.

[liquid_cool]

revrend...havent seen ya on in a while...(thread jacking) ..hows your holidays?

[bens240sx]

yeah an when you plastigauge it it wont be in spec telling you a problem and its a gven t inspect every

your welcome bro...sorry to hear about that thou...but for those pushing the qwick way..here is a perfect example of why you do it the rite way...

blkonblks14....nice investigation finding your issue btw...good work.

effected peice to the problem you are fixing

[Rev_D21]

liquid, good to see you. I have just been kicking back doing more reading than writing here. Thanks for making the strong posts you do, a true help to the community.

[seang]

Check the classifieds. There is also a wanted to buy section.

[liquid_cool]

ok...um just read through the post and DAMN!!nice job on the ban, thats all i gotta say on that...but i still need a motor, just a block maybe even with a head as my internals are Fu(k3d... so anyone wanna help a guy out?????HIT ME UP!!

you may not need the intore block bro...just get the main journals line honed and run oversize bearings...im shure you can sorurce a new crank and oem rods easy..this might run ya all of 2oo bucks to do at a decent machine shop..and while your there..with crank,rods,pistons...have the rotating assembly balanced out..that will give your motor a longer lifespan..enjoy bro.