rod bearing question

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msaskin
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Ok, well, long story short I spun a rod bearing in my SR20DET. I won't know the extent of the damage until later this week when I pull the engine and start tearing into it.

This is the process I believe I take. I'd love clarification though.

1 - measure clearances between the existing (possibly bad) bearings and the crank/rod. Do I measure clearance between crank and bearing, or between rod/rod cap and bearing? Also, does anyone know what size plastigauge I should be using?2 - if the taper is OK (same clearance on both sides of bearing), that means the crank is OK to reuse, right?3 - I order new rod bearings for each rod based on the amount of clearance?

~matt


NISTECH
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get the car appart and visually look at the crank journals first. If the bearing spun its likely torn into the journal and rendered the crank useless. Your best bet get the crank out and run it down to a machine shop and ask them if its salvagable.

msaskin
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Fair enough. I'm pulling the engine tonight so I'll start getting it torn apart and see what happens.

~matt

s13sr20chris
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msaskin wrote:
1 - measure clearances between the existing (possibly bad) bearings and the crank/rod. Do I measure clearance between crank and bearing, or between rod/rod cap and bearing? ~matt
bearing and crank
msaskin wrote:3 - I order new rod bearings for each rod based on the amount of clearance?


and based on the grade of bearing used

msaskin
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So let's say the bearings in there are all grade 1. I then use the clearance between old bearings and crank to determine the variation of the Grade 1 bearing to use?

I've read through the EM section of the FSM numerous times, and I'm just trying to sort of all my questions. I have a feeling that the crank may have some damage, and I'm slowly preparing myself to do an engine rebuild :)

~matt

s13sr20chris
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if they were all grade one(unlikely), then a standard rebuild would be to get all new grade one bearings. you want to measure the wear on the crank just to make sure its minimal. if you have a little wear but its acceptable then you can step down in bearing size just a hair. even that may require remachining the crank. im feelin a stroker crank.

msaskin
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s13sr20chris wrote:if they were all grade one(unlikely), then a standard rebuild would be to get all new grade one bearings. you want to measure the wear on the crank just to make sure its minimal. if you have a little wear but its acceptable then you can step down in bearing size just a hair. even that may require remachining the crank. im feelin a stroker crank.


I was just using all grade 1 as an example.

My wallet isn't feeling a stroker crank :)Besides, I can't figure out why on earth you'd want to stroke an SR20. The thing is perfectly square to begin with...86mm stroke x 86mm bore...why on earth would someone want to ruin that!

~matt

s13sr20chris
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oh yeah, i hear ya. mostly out of laziness. those motors sure are nice right out of the box eh?


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