Ride problem on 02 F50 sport....

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mcrews
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current miles 75k. Six months ago I had Swift lowering springs installed at A TIRE RACK authorized installer. (I had new tires done there a month before.) during the install they stripped the threads on the front strut and had to get a new one. When they finished the electronic suspenion stuff did not come on and the car became an instant low riding piece of crap!!!!All the warning lights were on. The installer sent the car to the local infiniti Dealer where a fuse was replaced and the car returned to normal (kinda)ever since then, the car rolls back and forth when going over seams in the highway (most notable) feels like you are in a boat crossing someone elses wake at an angle. the highway cracks are at 90 degrees and when I have a g35 sedan loaner the rolling back and worth is NOT there.I had the rear swift springs removed to see if the springs were the cause. the problem is still there, just a little firmer with the original springs. It 'feels' like one side is calibrated differently in the reaction to a bump.Also, when I exit on to a particular cloverleaf exit near my home, and am steering right (also the exit is uphill to a bridge), it feels like the left rear of the car is squating on the rear wheel as I accelerate. I have eliminated the tires as a source of the problem since I have had them rotated and had two new tires under raod hazard warranty.

Can "consult" give any kind of reading or feedback on the suspension parts? I have the sport suspension but cant really tell the difference when it is on or off.I am starting to do a lot of road time and this 'wallowing ' is starting to anoy me!!!Wes, you sway bar post w/ Q45tech got me to thinking that you smart boys mind be able to help!!! some times you guys raelly amaze me.

to recap: 1.car was fine BEFORE install.2. installer had to replace a front strut (aprox 65K)3. suspension system, vdc, etc were "out" when I picked it up.4. local infiniti dealer replaced a fuse and it worked (kinda) 5. car now 'mishandles' most notably is the wallowing over the freeway cracks.

mark


maxnix
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mcrews wrote:the car rolls back and forth when going over seams in the highway (most notable) feels like you are in a boat crossing someone elses wake at an angle.
If the anti-sway bar mounts and links are correctly torqued, then I would suspect the springs not being within specification side to side.

Q45tech
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By 75 k your shocks are way way way passed DONE and should be replaced as the first step. Shocks are matched to spring stiffness. Stiffer lowering springs need stiffer shocks to get the fore aft pitch time vs speed correct.

Spring compress on a bump and shocks job to slow the reexpansion time after the bump.

Get 4 brand new oem shocks and return to oem springs or find an engineering company to design new shocks [adjustable in rebound] for the stiffer springs.

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FarFetched
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May I ask why did you want to mess with ballanced set-up in the first place?It is amazing what distances people go to "enhance" their ride. What moves people to do such things without reseraching first? Every mode I've made that I thought would work, in 90 % at the time didn't work. I had to revert my ride to original state or modify it to my likings(more spendings) In your case you are bummed w/o professional help DUDE!Cheers?!

maxnix
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FarFetched wrote:May I ask why did you want to mess with ballanced set-up in the first place?It is amazing what distances people go to "enhance" their ride. What moves people to do such things without reseraching first?
Static appearances (largely irrelevant to the behavior of a dynamic systerm) and advertising copy coupled with the instincts of the lemming herds.

Q45tech is probably correct that significantly stiffer spring rate shocks are overriding worn out shock absorbers. Especially if there is a secondary and tertiary side to side oscillations after the intial one.

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elwesso
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at 75k your shocks arent gonna be totally shot i dont think but they wont be OEM new.

My guess is the lower ride is causing fits and badspells to the computer. I would try putting it in failsafe mode (pull a fuse or something) and see if it stiffens it up... maybe? I wonder if theres height sensors for the rear suspension.

Lowering springs on electronically controlled suspension setups are usually a bad idea.... especially if your not sure about how the system works yourself (not a personal slam, just a generalization)

Bounce each corner and report the rebound. it should be hard to push down but once you do sorta get it bouncing it should pretty much stop immediatly as soon as you stop....

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elwesso
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to continue my babbling, the suspension setup seems simiar to the old Zs. i bet if you unplugged the struts theyll go into the full firm mode.

I started flipping through the F50 FSM and im wondering if maybe the little actuator thingys arent adjusted properly. Heres an excerpt from the FSM on how they should be oriented...

FWIW, any "authorized installation center" does not always instill a lot of confidence.... I have no confidence in installation centers that are not outside of my garage or at least let me stand and watch (and be deathly annoying, but i always tip so they love me)

my guess is your "authorized installation center" did not know about how to orient the actuators and they either installed them backwards or not right...

xerexabante
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my question is did you upgrade your tires to a more low profile and wider once? if you have it is normal for your vehicle to hunt with the lines of the road. the thread pattern of your tires would be another issue.

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mcrews
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THANK YOU ONE &ALL,

ok, wes, yes I have the complete FSM...the bible!!!!!and the "caps" seem to be on straight or as per the diagram, sorry I did'nt mention that.

The car DID NOT wallow the day before the install so the real change was the one front strut.

And I would have to agree, humbly w/ hat in hand that while the lowering springs SEEMED to be a good Idea (from all the posts), I really am not wild about the ride. (ignoring the wallow effect)

The tires aren't hunting, the car is wallowing, actually rocking back and forth, but unevenly.

So no one thinks that there is any type of "read out" from consult?the FSM didn't seem to suggest one but everything else on the car has one!!! lol

I cant help but think, since it starts in the front, that the new strut on one side is throwing off the other........


maxnix
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mcrews wrote:I cant help but think, since it starts in the front, that the new strut on one side is throwing off the other........
I read you only replaced the strut, not the insert. If you have anew insert and an old insert, yeah things will be off. I should think you would replace all four damping devices at the same time to get a stable and similar decline in performance over time.

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mcrews
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looking thru the fsm and found a section on "SUSPENSION CONTROL SYSTEM". SCSso to answer my own question, yes, the is a Consult-II diagnosis process.The is also a self-test (one of many) which resulted in a errror light.I have an appointment next week at the dealer.Thanks for all the suggestions

Mark

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elwesso
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mcrews wrote:looking thru the fsm and found a section on "SUSPENSION CONTROL SYSTEM". SCSso to answer my own question, yes, the is a Consult-II diagnosis process.The is also a self-test (one of many) which resulted in a errror light.I have an appointment next week at the dealer.Thanks for all the suggestions

Mark
what was the error? Please fill us in with details!

xerexabante
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i have spoke to a retailer and he had said that the f50 w/ electronic controlled shocks are just regular adjustable shocks that you would buy now a days. the only difference w the f5o is that the actuators would turn the setting electronically rather than you would turn it by yourself w adjustable shocks.

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Q_SHIP
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I will never lower a car again. My car rides like a fukin civic. ITS A Q45 FOR CRYING OUT LOUD!!! I hate it.

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Falkdesigns
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Mine rides nothing like a Civic. Sorry your having some frustrations with yours. I would lower any car I ever own pretty much. The only reason yours rides harsh is the OE shocks are blown. Replace with new and you will be fine. My car rides NOTHING like a Civic, it rides great. My parents are in town and again they commented on how nice it rides, and they're in their 60's.

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elwesso
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Falkdesigns wrote:Mine rides nothing like a Civic. Sorry your having some frustrations with yours. I would lower any car I ever own pretty much. The only reason yours rides harsh is the OE shocks are blown. Replace with new and you will be fine. My car rides NOTHING like a Civic, it rides great. My parents are in town and again they commented on how nice it rides, and they're in their 60's.
Werd. You cant expect the car to ride nice unless you do it right.... The ride was dreamy with the lowering springs and the rubber suspension.... Its still nice with my all solid suspension, and the handling is definitely worth it.

Q45tech
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the handling is definitely worth it ??

Just like big wheel are for looks, inexpensive [without total redesign]lowering is primarily for looks.

The handling gains are so minute in improved g forces [to me a 1-2% IMPROVEMENT IS MINISCULE].

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elwesso
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i wasnt talking about the lowering springs, i was talking about switching to the all-solid link suspension setup.

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Falkdesigns
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Massively reduced body roll in cornering (why every race car on earth is low to the ground except rally cars which need long suspension travel for jumps), massively reduced nose dive under braking, and reduced squat on acceleration. All of which add up to greatly improve vehicle performance. Lowering springs by a reputable company like Tein, H&R, Eibach, etc. are not only for looks, but hey, you're the "Qtech" so whatever you say.

maxnix
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Q45tech wrote:the handling is definitely worth it ??

Just like big wheel are for looks, inexpensive [without total redesign]lowering is primarily for looks.

The handling gains are so minute in improved g forces [to me a 1-2% IMPROVEMENT IS MINISCULE].
Well, numbers don't lie.

The Eibachs are stiffer, as is KYB the shock rate on the FY33. Lowering seems minmal, maybe an inch F&R. The main thing is it is not so tippy and permits delving deeper into the sideways G loads the PS2 can produce with less anxiety. Obviously, the tires don't produce any greater G forces.

But the ride is definitely more jiggly, with no float, and tightly controlled rebound. Not harsh, but not Buick like luxury either. Not a bad trade off. And I don't have to approach driveways and speed bumps at an angle, much to my relief.

One interesting comment that Duy made to me is he thought the Teins were about the same spring rate as OEM. With reduced suspension travel, this would not be good, and he had to approach driveways and road surface obstacles at an angle or bottom out. My grossly inaccurate buttometer would guess the Eibachs are about 20% stiffer than OEM.

Anyway, when I decide to firm up my G50, I will get springs made 20% stiffer and maintain stock ride height and suspension geometry. Even if the blues wear faster, so be it.

It's dynamic performance, not static looks which matters to me. I don't drive on billiard tables but real world roads, many under construction.

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elwesso
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Ill just tell you right now brian, iwth my eibachs or cal customs ive never had any problems with my setup.... never come close to bottoming out or anything.... I have not experienced bump steer or anything, NO negative effects... PLus, if your getting adjustable camber arms, your not really changing the geometry....


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