Forgive me if there's a better place for this, but I wanted to put together a single place to capture the explorations I'm doing as part of making a VK45DE go into a non-Nissan car.

The basic idea is that I'm restoring a 1955 GMC '2nd Series' Pickup, and I was investigating what to do for a powertrain. I didn't like the idea of spending thousands of dollars to restore a 110 hp six cylinder engine, and being part of the car show scene for a while, I'm pretty much over seeing LS crate motors in absolutely everything. While I was looking up something on eBay, it suggested this engine, and I started looking into it... the more I looked, the more I liked it. Plus, by the time you get a decent LS1, the ecu, the transmission, etc, you're into it about $7000. The LK45DE was $1100 shipped to my front door, and included an automatic transmission, ecu, wiring harness, and the first couple inches of driveshaft. At the price I figured it's worth a shot.

So I pulled the trigger and got the engine in - what I'm finding is that there's not a lot of information out there about what I'm trying to do, which is why I wanted to start this thread. Hopefully this will help other people who need more or less information about making this work in a non-plug and play application.

Hopefully this works, but here's a picture of the truck, as it was when I bought it:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/aAofvnWtmj3Gts878

Here's the engine, as I received it:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/BA6RQwkb281G8p5T8

I checked the oil and transmission fluid, and both looked good, but not TOO good. When oil/atf looks brand new sometimes that means it's been changed out to hide a problem. This looked freshish but run in. Not brand new. I pulled the spark plugs and confirmed they all looked fine, strapped down the engine and hotwired the starter to a battery to check compression, and compression on all the cylinders was consistent.

Right now I'm working on the truck body, pulling dents, filling and skim coating, so I'm not sure when I'll get a chance to actually mock up and get the engine lined up and hopefully installed, which is my next step before running it.

One of the issues I foresee is getting the gauges to work with the new engine, etc... on this I had a thought - why not take advantage of the sensors that are already there to feed a gauge cluster that's designed to work with it?

It's an experiment, but my hope is to be able to get the gauge cluster working well enough to use the gauges from an M45 (I liked the look better than the Q45 gauges for a classic pickup.) So I'm hoping that the M45 gauges are enough like the Q45 gauges from similar year (2002 Q45 engine and ECU to 2006 M45 gauges and climate/meter computer that they can still talk to each other. For the areas where they don't, hopefully I can get it to work 'well enough'.

So I have the M45 gauges, the M45 computer that drives the gauges, and an M45 dash harness, the Q45 ECU and the Q45 Engine harness, Q45 fuel tank and Q45 Fuel sender/pump, and hopefully can make them all talk.

One issue I came up with today that I'll have to work out... the speedometer is fed from the ABS wheel sensors. The question is, do I try to fit an M45 ABS sensor on a 1955 GMC with 4 wheel drum brakes, or do I find some way to simulate the input. Or failing all of that, figure out how to make a GPS speedometer work with the M45 gauges and not look like absolute crap.

I WAS able to get them to power up today without a car:

So, it turns out that, at the very least, there are companies that produce GPS speedometer sensors that have a squarewave output - I don't suppose anyone knows off the top of their head how many pulses per mile the 2006 M45 Speedometer wants? 16,000 would be ideal because it's the most common, and that's what was used in the older 240sx's.

Secondarily, reading through the manuals it looks like it's actually the ABS computer that processes that signal and sends it on to the speedometer though. So I may have another computer to hide in that truck somewhere.

Big, bold project. Congrats and best of wishes on your endeavor.

Richter12x2 wrote: ↑

Thu Jan 24, 2019 1:35 pm

...
So I have the M45 gauges, [b]the M45 computer that drives the gauges, and an M45 dash harness[/b], the Q45 ECU and the Q45 Engine harness, Q45 fuel tank and Q45 Fuel sender/pump, and hopefully can make them all talk.
...

I can see that the gauge cluster is from an 06 or 07 m45. Could you clarify the sources of the parts I highlighted above?
What are you planning to do for the transmission?

Just in case you run into these going forward, electronically speaking:

• 2002-2006 Q45 = 2003/2004 M45
• 2006+ M45 is a different beast

I spoke to one of the JDM engine sellers on eBay and he told me that most of his customers were stuffing the VK45DE into drift cars. So, there has to be a number of 240SXs or 350Zs with this same engine. I wonder how they usually set them up.

Also, here is how we embed pictures into threads:
https://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-post ... 21709.html

I remembered saving a video that might be in line with what you're doing.
Talk to these guys, they are able to get the engine running by itself, which is what you need, right? Not certain what they did for the trans, I haven't talked to them because my projects so far have typically been plug and play.

That's part of it, and I'm not too worried about that part - the trickier part is that I want to make the gauges work, if possible. As far as just getting the engine to run and eventually drive, the only really tough part I foresee is making a shift linkage work in a way that looks good.

This is a huge help though, thanks!

EdBwoy wrote: ↑

Fri Jan 25, 2019 2:53 pm

Big, bold project. Congrats and best of wishes on your endeavor.

Richter12x2 wrote: ↑

Thu Jan 24, 2019 1:35 pm

...
So I have the M45 gauges, [b]the M45 computer that drives the gauges, and an M45 dash harness[/b], the Q45 ECU and the Q45 Engine harness, Q45 fuel tank and Q45 Fuel sender/pump, and hopefully can make them all talk.
...

I can see that the gauge cluster is from an 06 or 07 m45. Could you clarify the sources of the parts I highlighted above?
What are you planning to do for the transmission?

Just in case you run into these going forward, electronically speaking:

• 2002-2006 Q45 = 2003/2004 M45
• 2006+ M45 is a different beast

All of the M45 gear is from an '06 - although after spending 2 hours polishing the etches out of the plastic gauge fronts, when I tested them I figured out there was an issue with the left hand lcd display (you can see it a bit in the picture), so I'm going to return that one and replace with newer '09 cluster.

So right now:
2002 Q45 - Engine, Auto Transmission, Engine harness, ECU and transmission computer
2006 M45 - Dash harness and Gauge computer (I keep forgetting their specific term for this)
2009 M45 - Gauge Cluster

My thinking is that if it's the same engine and transmission that was used in the Q45 and M45, then the sensor inputs should be the same, or if not, there should be a sensor available that makes it the same as far as using the Infiniti gauge cluster. Right now the unknown to me is any communication that happens across CAN. For example, the speed comes from a wheel sensor which goes into the ABS computer, the ABS computer speaks over CAN to the Gauge computer, and the gauge computer outputs the signal that the Speedo is looking for. Luckily, from the service manual, it looks like the input to the speedo on pin 1 is looking for a squarewave signal, and from their 'signal at 25mph' it looks to be 8000 pulses per mile. Luckily there are aftermarket GPS speedo sensors that already output a square wave signal, and are selectable from 4000, 8000, 16000 which are the most common types. As long as Nissan didn't do anything weird, we should be able to get close enough. I have another car right now where the speedo doesn't work, and trying to remember speeds based on RPM is a more than a little bit obnoxious.

Lucky enough, since it's a GPS based sensor, I can get a 12v battery and some electrical tape and take the gauge cluster and computer for a ride in another car to figure out if the GPS sensor works the way the Infiniti gauges need it to.

What I haven't confirmed yet is if the sensor input for the tach for example goes from the transmission computer to the gauge computer through CAN - in which case I may be in trouble if the two don't speak the same language. But... even then, if it's like the ABS computer, where the ABS computer translates the PPM from the wheel sensor into CAN, sends it to the gauge computer where it's translated back to the same signal, then if CAN doesn't work I can just run a longer wire and be done with it.

Richter12x2 wrote: ↑

Fri Jan 25, 2019 3:35 pm

...
So right now:
2002 Q45 - Engine, Auto Transmission, Engine harness, ECU and transmission computer
2006 M45 - Dash harness and Gauge computer (I keep forgetting their specific term for this)
2009 M45 - Gauge Cluster
...

BCM? Body control module


And I figured that if the guys in that video can get the engine to run by disabling different modules, then they could be able to get your cluster to work. It's worth calling them to see what they can/cannot do.
And I have never tried to wire an 06+ ECU to the earlier cars, but you'll notice they do look considerable different.
I was going to encourage you to get an 06 M45 and ECU harness for the sake of compatibility to your cluster, but then a problem might arise in trying to get it to talk to the transmission you have. Have you tried sourcing a 2003/2004 gauge cluster and dash harness?

Good thing I just saw that UpRev can now be used on the earlier models, so that is someone else you could speak to.

mate just go standalone, Link G4 storm, easy to muck around with, NZ made and support is good,easy to interface to gauges, plus I could send you my tune and you could play with the fuel map as mine is turbo
that is of course if the vh45 is similar to the vk engine?

I got all the gauges on my Nissan skyline to work of the link ecu

Well, it turns out that the pulsed input signal on pin 1 is just for the trip meter. So I could track my mileage accurately but the speedo itself still didn't work. Rather than pick up an ABS computer just for the purpose of encoding the signal, I decided to punt and just ordered a set of gauges from Speedhut. This way I don't have to find a place to hide 3 computers whose only job is basically to make the gauges work.

Still, it was still kind of a fun project.

@holeset - I may take you up on that offer. I'm going to give the stock ecu a try first, but if it won't come together, I'll probably go standalone. You like the G4 Storm better than something like a Haltech? Back when I was playing around with my RX7, Haltech and Motec were the gold standard (but apparently Motec is made of solid gold, going off price).

ha ha awesome gold standard is right!(Cant believe the cost of the motec back in the day)
I paid 1200 NZD for the very first run of the g4 so its not even a storm but after mucking around with an old Autronic smc this was super easy in comparison to play around with , full live input output changes and easy software, plus when I had an issue with not knowing how to do stuff properly you could ring the actual guy up from link and he would answer the phone

Ill keep my eye on this build thread very interesting

Thank you! I'm excited to get the engine mounted in the truck, and more excited to one day be the one truck at the car show that doesn't have an LS stuffed under the hood. My plan was to try to begin mounting the engine this weekend, but it suddenly went from 70 degrees to 20 degrees. I may stick to working on things I can do with the shop doors closed and the heater on.

Finally making progress again as of the new year. I took a break to remodel the master bathroom, like gut it to the studs, and after doing that for 4 months in all my spare time, I was ready to NOT do anything for a bit.

Began test fitting and mounting the engine though, and it's amazing how well this thing fits:

Where it goes:


Nearly in, but a good view of the stock bracket configuration that we're working with:


A front view - it's a little forward, so it looks bigger, but it fits between the frame rails nicely:


From the factory, the GMC has a removable trans tunnel cover that's different between the i6 and the v8. For the i6, it definitely needs to come off. It also needs to drop about an inch to comfortable space the guibo on the end of the driveshaft from the cab floor. Here it clears by less than a centimeter


Tucked back, to clear the front rail, the transmission lines need to be rerouted, and that oil sensor is probably just going to be something you'd have to do without. Back to checking the oil with a dipstick every so often like some sort of caveman:



So, with the factory setup, it looks like you'd need to notch that second crossmember down about an inch to get space for the transmission pan and to make some room for the driveshaft guibo, but very doable.

I've also got a new crossbrace that's designed to take smallblock Chevrolet mounts and weld and bolt in, using 79 Corvette motor mounts, I just need to create a bracket that goes from the mounting bosses on the side of the block to the engine mounts, and it'll be perfect.

In MY case, however, the geometry is all wrong, they don't make original style tie rod ends anymore, and the replacements don't clear my wheels and tires. So instead, I'm going with one of the aftermarket front end clips based on the Mustang II. So as well as everything fits HERE... it's all going to change. :P

With the new front clip, and being able to remove the leaf spring mounts in front, I can take that second crossbrace out and move it back to become the new rear transmission mount crossbrace. So that'll provide access to the pan and eliminate the need for a new brace to be fabricated, and still box the frame correctly. I may end up not using the SBC engine mount thing at all, and just be able to mount directly onto the Mustang 2 front cross brace... after all, that's what the Mustangs do.

We'll have to see how it goes when the new front end gets here in a few weeks.

Amazing!!!

Was covered up with work, but now I'm starting to make some real progress again. I've been working on mounting the Mustang II style suspension in the front. Here are some pictures of it tacked in place. The kit was just a little too wide, so rather than try to bridge the gap with weld, I welded in metal plates and trimmed it to fit snugly.

Since then I''ve held up the fender to make sure it's located where it needs to be, front to back, and finished welding everything into place.

The bad news: with everything mounted where it goes with the NEW crossmember, the manual steering rack keeps the engine from sitting down over the crossmember the way I want it to ideally. I'm either going to have to go up with it, or forward with it to try to straddle the steering rack and crossmember. Forward would be the better option, provided it doesn't put the front of the engine into the radiator/fan. I'll know more once I get the original crossmember out and mock it up again this weekend. I cut off the rivets and knocked the crossmember out yesterday, so I just have to wait to get everything out so I can wrestle it into position and consider it some more.

I've just about decided I also need to try to get the engine to run before I get too much farther with it. It'd suck to go through all the effort to fit it and not be able to complete it. For under $2-3k, this is going to be awesome - if it ends up at about the $5k mark for drivetrain, I'd put a lot more thought into going electric.

I also finished recutting and grinding the gauge cluster to fit the new Speedhut gauges, including the GPS speedometer, which will take the guesswork out of figuring out how fast it goes down the road.

Latest update - I figure one of the next steps before making a ton of modifications to mount the engine is to make sure I can run it. With that in mind I reached out to ZFever to see about having them reprogram the ECU, like they did for their one: https://youtu.be/viubkqMCdRo

It's been a couple of days and I haven't heard back, but it's weird times, too, and it's hard to tell who's doing what right now.

I've also ordered an accelerator pedal that's meant to fit an an 06 M45, so we'll see if it works. Surprisingly it was only about $30, shipped.

So, the long story short - the computer that the engine came with couldn't be programmed. I was able to find one from a 2006 M45 that COULD, but doesn't fit the harness that was on it. So I purchased that and the engine harness for an '06 M45. Nearly everything matches up, but after spending a few hours yesterday unplugging the old harness and plugging in the new, I have a handful of things that didn't match up, that I'm trying to figure out what to do with.

A.

The blue plug on the throttle body has the same number of pins as the black locking plug on the new harness, but doesn't fit. Looking at replacement throttle bodies from 2006 M45 doesn't have anything on that side at all. The blue plug runs under the throttlebody into the cast block on the other side, where the throttle wheels are. My guess is that it's either a throttle position sensor, or the drive by wire throttle actuator. Any ideas what that goes to on a 2006 M45? I also haven't found a place for the small 2 pin black and white connector either.

B.
The lower cam/crank position sensor on the driver's side uses a different connector now, but I think this is just a matter of replacing that sensor with the one from a 2006 M45. The problem is running down the part number since there are several, and they all seem to be called the same thing. Also, the gray plug here doesn't have a home, and it connects to this valve:

C.
which seems to mount on the water pump, but I'm not sure what it does.

D.
These plugs on the bottom driver's side (US) also didn't have a home, and I wasn't able to see easily what they were for.

E.
Then this vacuum actuator on the top of the engine doesn't have a connection on the new harness either. Any ideas how this connects on the '06 M45? Or is it not necessary? It looks like some sort of air bypass, maybe to increase idle on cold starts? **EDIT** "EVAP Canister purge volume control solenoid valve" it looks like.

Any help or guidance you could provide on these would be awesome. Thank you!

Could the two-pin plug in A be for the Intake Manifold runner control solenoid?

The issue is that the 06+ Infiniti M45 is a newer style engine with a different intake manifold as well as a different computer (I know uprev have said that they can tune the older computer, but I can't vouch for that)

Here is what you're facing:
A. The older VK runs an interesting cable throttle + drive by wire setup for the TB. The harness you have is for a car that runs strictly DBW.
Check out this video - https://youtu.be/93oh5y7Yu1s

B. Both older and newer VKs use the same sensor. The plug you have pictured will actually work, but there's a little technic to getting it to engage.
Check this video out, around the 5-minute mark. https://youtu.be/9uil0Gai7oY
When you shop, look for a "crankshaft sensor". That video will explain why.

C. The older VK had a hydraulically controlled fan, with a coolant temp trigger for the solenoid.
Solution - get a newer style pump. I have never bothered to try it, but I have always ran with the assumption that these pumps will work if you find a way to prevent the hydraulic side from running dry.

D. Is that the old or new harness? Your engine was a JDM unit right? If so, and that is the old harness, you might be looking at a power steering pressure sensor connector and the adaptive engine mount.

E. The evap solenoid on the 06 M45 is on the right side of the intake, sort of opposite side of the VIAS (dual intake runner) solenoid.
The best thing I would do to use an 06 M45 harness & computer is to run the 06 intake manifold. Look them up, and you might be able to see the potential hurdles in keeping your current one.
The video in my answer to A might have some of these answers already

***
Hopefully a quick read to explain why JDM versus USDM 1 versus USDM 2 matters - v8-engine-replacement-options-do-the-03 ... 19905.html

There are a few layout videos towards the end of this playlist that might help make sense of the different tubes, hoses and wires you'll see - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... Z4AUL0sgVI

Awesome, that's a big help.

I actually had worked with Uprev and they were the ones who told me they can't do anything with the older style computers. The 2006 computer has already been sent to them, patched and returned, so THAT part should be ready to go.

You're probably right on the power steering and adaptive engine mounts - it does have those, I just couldn't see because it's on the ground and kinda wedged beside two other projects.

I pulled up the pictures of the 2006 engine online, and came to that conclusion as well, that I was probably going to need to:

- Replace the intake
- Source a 2006 throttle sensor
- Find a MAF for 2006, and the related harness
- get a clutch, pressure plate, etc, and manual transmission, because the 2006 Computer doesn't connect to the older transmission that came with it, and if I need to update, I may as well go manual
- Find a way to shift the manual transmission, or cut and fabricate a hole in the floor to look good, since the '55 was a column shift.
- Custom driveshaft
- cut part of the cab floor and firewall out so that the engine can sit far back enough to clear the front k-member - because the oil pan position screws me up
- fabricate new tunnel
- remove the inner fenders to clear the sides
- custom belt to remove the power steering pump

So I've pretty much given up going that route. I think I'm just going to make it electric, and not do any of the above. Hopefully I can find someone nearby (Dallas) who has a use for a VK45DE with the transmission, both harnesses, the factory '03 computers and the modified '06 computer, and I can maybe recoup SOME of my money on it.

Selling thread here:
fs-vk45de-engine-conversion-parts-t6274 ... 410d6ff40a