RRRRB wrote:Garretts are great turbos.. the old gt series were solid.. I have had a 30r and a 35r never had an issue with either one.

If it were mine I'd use a 6766 or a 6768.. those will have awesome response and make big power..

A friends 2.0l k20 made 987whp on rocket e85 with a 6766

yes, i was looking at the 6766 but it said it makes 935 hmmm.... do you think its more responsive then the GT42 series turbo.

response and large frame turbo do not go hand in hand, 3l or not.

Carl H wrote:response and large frame turbo do not go hand in hand, 3l or not.

well i know that but like the BW it was full spool at 4500 rpm and goes to 7800... ive seen some turbo's that only get about 1500 rpms of power. i dont want that.... i was asking how is it considered to other turbo's around that size...

the 6766 on my car gets 20 psi around 4500 and i have Rb25

RRRRB wrote:the 6766 on my car gets 20 psi around 4500 and i have Rb25

what kind of power you making your setup? i have a friend that has the garrett gt42 series new that is letting it go for about $700 so im trying to figure out is that a deal i should take or go with the percision stuff??

bust out the calculator and see which turbo would fit the motor for your needs...whats great on a 25 might suck on a 30.

Carl H wrote:bust out the calculator and see which turbo would fit the motor for your needs...whats great on a 25 might suck on a 30.

Well that's the thing I know nothing about the sizing on the Garrett. It sounds like a really huge turbo from the guy description, 74mm front and 104mm back wheel, idk how that would work on my car compared to Borg Warner 72mm. Wish I understood turbos more

So in y'all's opinion, I have two good options in front of me.... I don't know much about turbos so that's why I'm in the lost zone. So it's between the precision pt6768 for $1100 or the Garrett gt42 74mm wheel for $700 both or brand new

The GT42 is going to spool much slower than a 6768 the compressor of the precision is only 67mm but its billet, so its much more efficient for its size.. if you want response then id use the 6768 if you dont care id use the 42..

If the 42 is ball bearing then i might consider it due to its value..

My car makes s*** for power, i dont know why. it made 434whp on 18-19 psi on pump gas with about 17 degrees of timing. this was on a dyno dynamics

RRRRB wrote:The GT42 is going to spool much slower than a 6768 the compressor of the precision is only 67mm but its billet, so its much more efficient for its size.. if you want response then id use the 6768 if you dont care id use the 42..

If the 42 is ball bearing then i might consider it due to its value..

My car makes s*** for power, i dont know why. it made 434whp on 18-19 psi on pump gas with about 17 degrees of timing. this was on a dyno dynamics

No I wish it was ball bearing, how do you think it compares to the Borg Warner 72mm. When u say the Garrett older style, what makes these newer turbo better

The newer wheels are CNC'D there more aggressive, stronger, lighter and there machined much closer to the core of the wheel, which results in more surface area, which gives more potential for flow.

Older meaning for instance a T04Z ( popular cast wheeled 67mm garrett turbo) is good for about 750whp pretty much maxxed out

Newer "billet" 67mm turbos have approched 1000whp yet spool just as fast and in some instances faster than a T04Z

RRRRB wrote:The newer wheels are CNC'D there more aggressive, stronger, lighter and there machined much closer to the core of the wheel, which results in more surface area, which gives more potential for flow.

Older meaning for instance a T04Z ( popular cast wheeled 67mm garrett turbo) is good for about 750whp pretty much maxxed out

Newer "billet" 67mm turbos have approched 1000whp yet spool just as fast and in some instances faster than a T04Z

Oh ok that helps a lot, thanks... So I came across another turbo the 6766 dual ball bearing for a good price, $1200 with to diff a/r .96 and .68 I'm prob going to use the .96 and it has a big front cover to.... What do u think?

Also RRRRB, what type psi your friend with the k20 running to get 985hp

H cover is great if you can fit it, and the bigger housings are a must if you plan on pushing the turbo

I believe he was running somewhere in the 40-45psi range

[quote="RRRRB"]H cover is great if you can fit it, and the bigger housings are a must if you plan on pushing the turbo

I believe he was running somewhere in the 40-45psi range[/quotes]

What do you think about the comp turbo g3 its suppose to be up to 950

I dont know much about the Comp turbo's if its the one that dont require oil, i would stay away from them until more people have used them.. you have had enough problems with turbos..haha

RRRRB wrote:I dont know much about the Comp turbo's if its the one that dont require oil, i would stay away from them until more people have used them.. you have had enough problems with turbos..haha

No it's a water and oil cooled but that's another prob i don't have water lines setup for it, it said its a triple bearing setup to but don't know the diff

running a water cooled turbo without waterlines is a bit foolish, unless explicitly designed to run without oil or be non water cooled tolerant (such as efr series) you'll just bake the CHRA to death.

Carl H wrote:running a water cooled turbo without waterlines is a bit foolish, unless explicitly designed to run without oil or be non water cooled tolerant (such as efr series) you'll just bake the CHRA to death.

No, I'm not saying I was gonna do that, that would be retarded, I'm just not setup up for that and would have to do that. But that ill turbo so small compared to my Borg Warner it makes me think can it really do what I need it to do.

i ran both my GT series ball bearing turbos without water for quite a long time (years), i never had an issue.. im not saying its the right way, just saying i didnt have an issue...

then run the math on the compressor and see if it will work or not, guessing as if a turbo is 'good' for the motor is kinda dumb.
its seriously like 15 minutes of math (if that) to find out.

Carl H wrote:then run the math on the compressor and see if it will work or not, guessing as if a turbo is 'good' for the motor is kinda dumb.
its seriously like 15 minutes of math (if that) to find out.

how do you read those map's? so for the idiot Q. and i ended up getting the Comp Turbo ct4 6765 triple ball bearing with water cool and oil. it came with a .68 a/r but i ordered a 1.16 twin scroll with 3.5 V band. it says its rated up to 950hp

precision turbos don't have compressor maps avilable.. normally only OEM manufactors of turbos actually have maps for their turbos, like borgwarener Holset garrett etc..

What made you choose a comp turbo?

RRRRB wrote:precision turbos don't have compressor maps avilable.. normally only OEM manufactors of turbos actually have maps for their turbos, like borgwarener Holset garrett etc..

What made you choose a comp turbo?

Well to be honest, it was for a good price an then I seen it was able to handle the same power as Borg Warner and it can fit under my hood now.... What do you think about that turbo? I also order the rear housing size 1.16 for it cuz I think .68 is to small...

Wouldn't consider a T51R SPL?

Noctis wrote:Wouldn't consider a T51R SPL?

No I haven't really heard about it before I got this turbo. If this one doesn't get goals I'll have to find another option.

so a lil update on this setup..... i got the comp turbo 6768 then i ordered a bigger turbine housing 1.15 AR but i got it and it didnt fit so i shipped the whole turbo back to get the sizing right but then i got curious about upgrading the turbo so i bit the bullet and upgraded to an 7879..... oops...... oh well i guess we shall see how it does. i havent seen not one person that is running this turbo ive tried to find someone but i could only see people thinking about it not actually using it. so ill be posting my results in when i get them. but i also am upgrading my FMIC as well cuz i know my standard 3" thick is not gonna be able to hold 1000hp +.

well i wanted to share some pix with you of my new turbo and my new FMIC which is 4' core 36" long and 13.5" tall. very big boy having to redo piping AGAIN.

why do you keep changing everything? You need to come up with a power and choose the turbo that does it with the most response?

Im anxious to see what this does for you, im building an RB30 this winter with a goal of around 750-850whp

RRRRB wrote:why do you keep changing everything? You need to come up with a power and choose the turbo that does it with the most response?

Im anxious to see what this does for you, im building an RB30 this winter with a goal of around 750-850whp

Well I changed it cuz my turbo just not rebuild able and the one I had I didn't think I would make my 900hp goal easily within 36psi. But then I think my old fmic was gonna hold me back to so I changed it out as well. I still need to change my rear end out to

What are you doing with the rear end? R230?