do you know any tires that are rated (y) that are as good as MT DR's? i have MT DR's on my car now but in 17" but they are not allowed at some events, as they say ( the tire is know to having a blow out at speeds of 200+mph)Darius wrote:How different do you think the R6's would hook in a straight line vs MT DRs? Probably not as well, I'm guessing?
i have 2 of them that i just got in for $1800 each.exodus5547097 wrote:I'm curious. Where exactly did you get the rb30e motor or block? Is there anyone that still sells them?
Yellow4g63 wrote:did you feel around the pully? maybe something is tearing up the belt or the alignment is tweeked some how.
well not all of it was my doing but i can say that not many people around here do big things with the RB's so the shops i go to have very little experience on it. i dont do much work myself. but the springs werent stock they are the basic level of supertech.RRRRB wrote:Why on earth would you run that large of cams with stock springs??
I don't want to make fun of you, but you have had more issues with this setup that all seem to be related to your doings.. maybe it's time to have someone with more experience build this for you unless you like to do things over and over..
the first time around i hit 775 but i was shooting for over 1000whp. this time i have a different machine shop putting it together. before now it only revs to 7800.RRRRB wrote:You don't need that large of cams to make 800... boozted3 made 770 on small drop in tomeis on a stock block 26 with a smaller turbo..
If your gonna pay to have work done I suggest paying someone that knows what there doing..lol
how high are you revving this thing?
well ill street tune it and then eventually ill tune it on the dyno but i does my own tuning. hopefully it makes even more power with the modes i did to the head.mattblancarte wrote:You are one determined RB owner, I'll give you that! Cool car and fun thread to read.
Are you going to have it professionally dyno tuned after it's all back together?
I start out tuning drivability part then coming into boost up to about 15 psi or so ( on highway of course) right now low boost is around 27psi so I usually go on the toll road to do high end pulls. But I spend a lot of time on the low which makes the WOT easy to and quick. Usually only need a few good pulls at high gear to be on point for afr. After that then it's Dyno time for timing.mattblancarte wrote:Can you explain your street tuning process? I'm curious as to how you go about it.
I can understand maybe doing a basic idle-tune and low throttle/rpm tune so you can puttz around and drive it to a dyno... but trying to street tune a high-hp RB just sounds unrealistic (and extremely dangerous to yourself and more importantly, others).
Why not just throw it on the dyno right away?
RRRRB wrote:I street tuned my car on 27ish psi and E85, it can be a bit hairy on higher boost, and it must hook solid to get a good read on whats going on. Just doing it late at night, nobody around.
well to answer you question from my prospective, i am a professional tuner so why pay someone else to tune it if i already know it? i have tuned plenty of high Hp cars some more than mines.mattblancarte wrote:Thanks for sharing that, guys. Interesting stuff.
Now, for more of a practical question: Why spend all that money on parts and then choose to tune your car in the least optimal environment (i.e., a public road, probably in the dark or with street lighting, moving at speeds reaching 130+ mph, etc.)?
Assuming you don't have mechanical issues, you could probably rent an hour on a legit dyno for $150 or less. Even in a crappy scenario, you could be on and off the dyno several times for less than $500. You could even defer to a real professional who has truly mastered your ECU type... Have your car tuned for $500 and be done with it. Then, maybe poke around on the street after you know it's at least safe to do WOT pulls, then analyze readouts and tune to your own liking.
Also, how can you really keep an eye on the critical engine readouts when you are going 100+ mph? I have quite a lot of seat time in quite a few different vehicle types, and I normally just don't read gauges at that speed.
I apologize for peppering you with questions, but I am truly trying to understand the other side of the coin here. If this were my car, I would probably choose to go straight to the dyno... So I want to just make sure I am not way off base because you both sound experienced and like you've had some success with your methods.
Maybe I'm just paranoid.
i re did the whole valve train, ported the bowl area, cut the quench pads out. thats pretty much it. on the springs i hope they not to stiff tho that they wear out my cams to fast.chad b. wrote:What mods did you do to the head after you floated valves? I don't think there's anything wrong with Supertech dual valve springs. You said your cams were 10.9mm lift. Those springs should handle those cams no problem I would think.
On your rb30? What turbo u have?RRRRB wrote:I have supertech springs and spinning almost 9k