Reviving my M

[TDot]

So I've had my M sitting for about 4 years. Bought some other cars and have been driving them. Probably drove the M 50 times no more than 15 miles each time in that 4 years....just washed it today for the first time in 4 years .

Anyway, it's revival time. I started off with the rims and tires. 2 rims bent and flattened and were unusable 4 years ago which is the initial reason I put the car down. So I just found a place that straightened all bends and powder coat for a good price.

Maaco quoted me $3,200 for a full body repair, rust, paint, and clear...minus $750. So $2,450 all in.

Now the body work, this is where I need assistance and help for cheaper prices:
1/ Replacing SPC Adjustable upper control arm 72130: $649.95 (both) (can I/should I just change the bushing?)
---bushing $34 (each) -- https://conceptzperformance.com/spc-per ... _53646.php
2/ Left axle: $90
3/ Transmission mount: $125
4/ Front and rear links: $60
5/ Duralast Brake Master Cylinder NM55458: $152
6/ Exhaust resonator y pipe: $235
7/ Struts:
Rear KYB Excel-G Shock Absorber 349053: 55 (each)
Front OEM: $210 (each)
8/ Sunroof motor...I think (the sunroof is not flush with the roof, the rear of the glass is sunken down about 50mm, and just today the roof stopped opening all the way, and struggles to close. I don't know if the offset and the struggling are related to the motor.

Can anyone point me to cheaper prices on these parts...especially specific front struts (I'm not interested in coil-overs or air)?
And is there anything specific that I should look into from having the car sit around for that long?

[AZhitman]

Wow. You can't even get a paint shop to LOOK at a car out here for less than $6k, and we have no rust.

UCA are a PITA to do just the bushings.

RockAuto has:
MOOG RK622197 Complete Arm w/ Ball Joint - $51
MOOG RK622199 Complete Arm w/ Ball Joint - $67
If you need a LF axle, they're out, but a LR is available for $70
KYB 349053 Excel-G - $51
Good end links are $20 each...

That'd be my first move, getting everything from them that they offer.

[TDot]

Wow. You can't even get a paint shop to LOOK at a car out here for less than $6k, and we have no rust.

Same thing in NY. Maaco is different though...I guess they offset from being a big chain. Before now I would have never let them touch my car, but this particular shop has amazing reviews, and one personal review, so I'm taking a chance.

UCA are a PITA to do just the bushings.

Can you be more specific, because youtube makes it look super easy? It seems straightforward at worst all I see is needing to put muscle into it...but that can be overcome by a large breaker bar or short burst with an impact drill.

MOOG RK622197 Complete Arm w/ Ball Joint - $51
MOOG RK622199 Complete Arm w/ Ball Joint - $67

I need to replace my adjustable arm (or the bushings)....my car is dropped and on 20s.

Also, my brakes have been mushy from day one. I press it, it goes all the way to 2 to 4cm from bottoming out. With new pads and bleeding there is no real difference. I'm assuming it's the master cylinder, since I'm doing all of this work now I'm thinking I might as well replace this. I don't think it's leaking because it looks like the exact amount I put in it way back. Is there a better way to determine if it's the master cylinder? Attached is a pic.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bQS1QgyyTfgipCWM6

[AZhitman]

Sounds more like a failing booster.

[TDot]

I thought a bad booster causes a stiff pedal, not a soft one? And I hear no air leak when pressing the pedal, pedal goes down after pumping and starting the car, and no hiccups with the engine because of bad O2 mix. Why would you say it's the booster from mushy brakes, and how else would I test/observe it if my other observations point to it not being the booster?

Thanks

[EniGmA1987]

Maaco paint is hit or miss. Sometimes they last 4-5 years, sometimes they start peeling after 2.
Id look at vinyl wrapping as well for your price point. They will do the same grinding on rust spots and such and not care about further destroying your underlying paint, but these are around the same $2000-3000 price for all that and your wraps may have a lot more color options and special looks to them. They also last 5+ years


When my brakes were not working well and were very mushy I thought it would be the master cylinder also. Turned out to be my booster.

[VStar650CL]

Boosters which leak vacuum externally will give you a high-hard pedal because they don't have as much vacuum available for assist as they should. Boosters with a sticky return valve or weak diaphragm spring but no external leaks can cause some sponge because they never equalize properly. That's a fairly rare failure mode, but it can happen.

[TDot]

I decided I'm going to get the master cylinder and brake booster. Upon more research, everywhere says when you replace one, just replace the other. This has lead me to an issue in finding a brake booster. Everywhere I look it's either used, out of stock, or too expensive. Leads me to two questions, 1/ Is this an item that is ok to buy used, 2/ If new, where has it for a decent price? Thanks.

[TDot]

Decided to do one more test. Pulled the brake lines off of the master cylinder and plugged the master cylinder lines up. Pressed the brakes and they were solid as a rock. So it looks like the problem is the ABS module...I think.

[TDot]

A few things. I was having a hell of a time finding a booster from a trusted source, or decent price so I changed some other things hoping they were it. Alas, I am back to the booster (at least by the end of this I'll have a brake system that should run another 150K miles smh). Anyway, issue
1/ The booster check valve, which I found out can also cause spongy brakes, is that inline or on the booster? Everywhere I look is pointing me to the connection on the booster...which by the way I'm having a hell of a time getting out where I think I'm going to break something or the hose. All the stores when I put in the my car also say that is where the booster check valve is. But the manual says it's inline by the engine (which i guess everyone here is going to say go with the manual). But is there two? And do I have to specifically go to the dealer for the part since all the stores is saying my valve is on the booster?
2/ Any recommendations on where I can get a trusted brake booster?
3/ Does the ABS unit specifically need to be bled if changed?

[VStar650CL]

The FSM should be right and there shouldn't be a second check valve. That hose lists for $68, so it's either gold plated or there's a valve in it.

You shouldn't need to bleed anything if you can wiggle the booster out without disconnecting the master cylinder. Dunno if that's doable on an M, I'm a Nissan tech. Even if you need to unhook the master, bench-bleed it before reinstalling and you'll have little or no air. If you want to make sure it's "no" and not "little", bleed the two lines connecting the master to the ABS at the ABS end. Everything else should be fine.