Review on Subframe Spacers.

[elwesso]

I was thinking this evening, I installed my subframe spacers probably a few weeks ago and I never wrote any feedback on it....

They went in smoothly, air tools would have been great, i was sore afterwards, those fastners didnt want to come off... overall it probably took a litlte over an hour because I was talking to Rob part of the time

If I could equalize it to anyhting, they were like adding a strut tower brace to the rear..... the only thing is it made road/differential noise a little louder..... Nothing worth batting an eye out... no smoothness lost.... Its really tight back there now.....

overall, for the $50 i spent on the spacers and all that jazz, it was worthwile. Id like to see someone else try it.....

[fjirousek]

Can you give us a parts list/website where you got everything?

[elwesso]

http://www.splparts.com

Go to the subframe section for the 240 or the 300ZX... Total cost was around $70 from SPL, ubt I got mine off ebay.

You want to find the ones that look like this..

[redmanfx]

I've got a write up from splparts on it..... Wes has a link nevermind.

I'M A VICTIM!

[elwesso]

Some of those bolts just didnt want to come out.. It wasnt a fun install but it wasnt hard..

At least I get to replace a wheel bearing next weekend.....

[sclay115]

applicable to the Y33 chassis?

steve

[Infinitiguy19]

...They went in smoothly, air tools would have been great, i was sore afterwards, those fastners didnt want to come off... overall it probably took a litlte over an hour because I was talking to Rob part of the time.....

Yeah so yesterday I put on the sub frame spacers/collars. It took me 2 hours or so (First time). The bolts and nuts were somewhat rusted but came off fine after soaking in a penetrating spray. The went in fine with the help of silicone lube, Ru Glyde. I Used to use this on tires all the time and never thought twice to use this on anything else (Thanks Owner CS). I also had to use a pry bar to get the top spacer in. Removing the Right Rear wheel helped.

Anyways Wes said using a air wrench would help. Well I read this after I installed the bushings so using my air wrench was not influenced by you Wes. So I used the air wrench on on the right front bracket bolts and the nut that holds up the sub frame. That went fine...Put in the collars and put that back together. On to the left side. I loosened the bolts and nut with a 21 inch breaker bar and got lazy and used the impact wrench again to get them off. Well one bolt comes off fine and the other one seems to be coming off fine then spins like crazy as if completely loose. I pull down on the bracket to try and force the bolt to come out and that does not help. I put the boroscope in there and see the welded nut came UNWELDED. So one small snag. The plate that the nut is welded to is also spot welded in place as well.

So I am left with two choices fit a crowsfoot wrench or a stubby wrench in there and hold the nut while turning the bolt. Or cut the bolts and pull out the nut (Easier).

To add to that I broke a ground wire that was on the rear differential. It connected to the body but I am not sure what that could be for. And the dealer can not find it. The wire was very brittle so using one from another Q is not the best idea.

I currently have the Q45a rear sway bar installed so I could not feel very much difference and wheel hop is still there. I don't care about wheel hop because the car does not see anything over 2K RPM's and 55 MPH.

Tips: Use Ru Glyde on the sub frame bushings regularly.
Put silicone grease on the collars before installing to bushings.
Silicone grease is said to preserve rubber.
Use a two post lift with a flash light
NEVER USE AIR TOOLS!
Watch out for fuel lines and brake lines when using the pry bar!

[maxnix]

Are these for the SPL Z32 polyurethane bushings?

[Infinitiguy19]

Nope i have OEM bushings but I think they can be used for the SPL Z32 polyurethane bushings.

[elwesso]

The subframe spacers are pointless to use on the Poly bushings because the poly bushings effectively take up all the extra "slop" that the OEM rubber/silicone bushings have.

[maxnix]

Oh, so these are only the collars. So what happens when the OEM silicone filled bushings fail?

[Infinitiguy19]

These collars are for bushings that have failed or for people that have good ones but want more.

Anyone know anything about the broken ground?

[PaulR]

These are very helpful comments.

On my 94 Q45, the rear suspension cross member bushing need replacing. I haven't been able to find our much info about them, but, from this thread, it looks like they are silicone filled?

My Q45 is low mileage (75K), but, unfortunately, that doesn't mean much when it comes to rubber. Because the bushings have degraded. I get nice clonking noises when going over bumps and when shifting into reverse. When jacking the diff unit, then movement of the frame, at the front two mounts is between 1/4 - 1/2 inch.

So, my question is what's involved in replacing the bushings, or adding possibly hard rubber or silicone spacers? And can this be done without dropping the frame?

Thanks,