rev hard mani ?

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
Artaxerxes
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Joined: Sat Jan 10, 2004 11:39 am

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I was wondering if anyone could tell me for certain weather or not I should cut between the runners on my revhard flange? Also wasn't it intended to be a top mount ? The reason I ask is because I read on this forum that it needs port work to be used that way.


Structure240sx
Posts: 5615
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 5:04 pm

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yes definitly cut the flanges. it is suppose to be a top mount manifold. it doesnt NEED to be ported jsut like it doesnt need to have the flanges cut. its jstu a good idea. i jsut opened up all the ports enough to match up with the exhuast manifold gaskets. i havent had any problems with it yet its been 4kmi

TrunkMonkey
Posts: 3190
Joined: Sun Aug 04, 2002 7:48 am
Car: 2000 Lincoln Navigator

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isn't the current run a revised version? iirc, the original manifold was a bottom mount and porting was necessary to get everything to line up...either that or i'm sniffing too much of this carpet fresh.

-demetrius

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C-Kwik
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Joined: Thu Aug 01, 2002 9:28 pm
Car: 2013 Chevy Volt, 1991 Honda CRX DX

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I got my new rev-hard less than a year ago. The ports don't line up. As far a I can tell, the reason it doesn't is for two reasons. I think they assumed the KA ports were centered between each set of exhaust manifold studs on the head. Secondly, the ports on the Rev-Hard mani are round. The KA ports are square. Cutting the flanges is an extremely good idea. The mani-to-head flange is rather thick and will not heat up as fast as the runners which will cause the runners to want to expand more than the flange. Either from too much heat or repeated expansion and contraction it may form a crack, most likely in the collector area. Another good idea is to take a dremel or grinding bit with a drill and remove and cast flashings. These shap corners tend to be where cracks start. And anything to minimize cracking is a good idea on any manifold.

Artaxerxes
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Jan 10, 2004 11:39 am

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Thanks for the help guys. Just one more question. My manifold only has holes taped for a t4 does anyone know what spec bolts I sould use?

Structure240sx
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Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 5:04 pm

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i think it was c-kwik that said stock exhuast manifold studs and nuts fit and work great, wont get lose. i think i might try that when i get my turbo back

Nathan
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Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2003 6:43 am

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Or, get some really good Grade 8 bolts (3/8 in. I think off the top of my head) with some split lock washers and tighten them WAY down. I can't possibly see how Grade 8 bolts with lock washers torqued to ~70 or more ft. lbs could come loose.

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C-Kwik
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Car: 2013 Chevy Volt, 1991 Honda CRX DX

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You need to make sure the studs are torqued down using the double jam nut method. It will hold fine. Stock manifold nuts work great since they are mechanical lock nuts. Spring/split lock washers are a joke with turbos. The heat basically turns them into flat washers. If you want to use a lock washer, you need to use serrated washers. But I've tried it and they have come loose too.

Structure240sx
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Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 5:04 pm

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whats the double jam nut method? using two nuts on one bolt?

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C-Kwik
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Car: 2013 Chevy Volt, 1991 Honda CRX DX

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yep


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