Retrofit bumper, fender and lights Leaf 2018-2020

The web's first forum dedicated to Nissan's groundbreaking electric car, the Nissan Leaf.
brockwaters
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Joined: Tue May 25, 2021 4:17 pm
Car: Nissan Leaf SL Plus

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I bought a Nissan Leaf with a totaled title. If I could get a hood, fenders, headlights, fog lights and a bumper from the junk yard rather than trace down these expensive new parts it might be worth fixing still. Is there any close matches to the 2020 Nissan Leaf SL Plus that I could use to make retrofitted exterior body parts for these items?


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VStar650CL
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Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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Go to NissanPartsDeal.com, enter your VIN and look up the p/n's for the various parts you need. Then clear the vehicle and enter the p/n's into the search bar, if there are cross-references to other Leaf MY's it will show up at the bottom of each page.

brockwaters
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Car: Nissan Leaf SL Plus

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That does help, but it does not allow me to verify for the Nissan Leaf 2020 SL Plus, because it only works for 2019 and older. Is there something that works for 2020?

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VStar650CL
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Nope, in that case you'll need to get p/n's from the dealer Parts Dept and then x-ref them on NPD. If you want to shoot me the VIN and an exact list of what you need, I can save you the trip and get numbers.

brockwaters
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Joined: Tue May 25, 2021 4:17 pm
Car: Nissan Leaf SL Plus

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I made a video of the parts I need, so you can see what is going on. Here is the link:https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sPKyAy ... sp=sharing. If you prefer I use a different method of sharing it with you, let me know. The vin is 1N4BZ1DP0LC303736.

Thank you for helping me. I am just after getting it street legal and running at this point. I do care about aesthetics, but I am really regretting how much I have spent up to this point, because I just spent 4 times as much on this totaled vehicle as I have ever spent on a vehicle. I really want to keep repair costs down and if it is possible to get a cheaper part then that is what I would like to do.

I can't charge it right now, because it says it has been in an accident. I need to use leaf spy ot check the codes and see if it is something I can easily fix, but the electrical looks fine unless the door to the charging ports has a sensor that detects if it is open I see no reason for it not to let me charge it, which is part of the reason I have included the electrical plugs. I do not know what devices might be on the bumper that those cords may have plugged into.

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VStar650CL
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2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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I'll try to identify what all the parts are called tonight and get some numbers from the Parts Dept tomorrow. I'll also try to find out if collision codes are clearable, I'm not sure but you might need to replace the LBC and/or VCM before it will charge or operate. You're probably SOL on the headlights also, I believe they're LED on all Leafs as a power-saving measure. That means there won't be any cheap replacements unless you can find JY units.

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VStar650CL
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Well, I take it back about the headlights. I thought halogens were discontinued after the ZE0 but apparently not, they're still listed for a '19. I think I have a fairly complete list, will hand it to the Parts guys tomorrow.

brockwaters
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Car: Nissan Leaf SL Plus

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Thank you for looking into those parts for me!! I tried to clear the DTCs today with leaf spy and they all went away, but cam e right back. Here is my current DTCs: https://drive.google.com/file/d/16eeIEa ... sp=sharing. I have not had a chance to research them. I have been studying body work and I had to move my care to my neighbors, which involved clearing weeds away and pushing it on foot to his house. The main battery is all the way dead, so it is possible some of the codes are due it needing a charge. I look forward to your list, because some of those parts were really hard to know what were. Thank you again!!

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VStar650CL
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You're right that the main battery isn't charging because it isn't seeing the port interlock, that's the B290A. The most concerning is the U1000's in the VCM and LBC, it means there's some other CAN device they should be hearing from but can't. You should go over it thoroughly for blown fuses, the accident may have pinched some wires. I can't tell exactly what's missing because your scanner is mis-attributing a lot of codes, e.g., it has obvious ACU codes attributed to the AV Unit, so who knows what else. I'll look up the P3xxx codes in the morning and see if I can translate. Part of the problem is, I'm Leaf certified but I'd hardly call myself an expert. I doubt there are more than 30 of them in the whole Little Rock area, so we just don't see very many.

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VStar650CL
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Something doesn't add up here. Was this car hit when parked so no bags deployed? There should be a P3135 in the VCM and P1421 in the ACU if it was hit with the ignition on, but I don't see either one. I also don't see the PDM present in the readout, which could be the source of U1000's. The P3xxx codes are all failsafes from the VCM and LBC because of no-comm conditions. This could again be from crushed or opened harness harness wiring, since the PDM is right on top of the "engine" at the front of the car. I think you may need to get the systems read with a Consult3+ or better scanner. Here's the CAN layout, on a high-end Plus you should be seeing all or almost all of these systems:

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brockwaters
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Joined: Tue May 25, 2021 4:17 pm
Car: Nissan Leaf SL Plus

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I do not know if the key was on or not, but I do know the air bags did not deploy. I will try and check for the PDM. I was starting with B29A0 to get it to charge. I am not certain if I fix the B29A0 code if it will charge or if I need to fix the U1000 codes before trying to charge. It is not at my house now, so it will be a bit before I can check it. I might have something figured out by 12 PM MST. I will study the schematics and see if I can find the com link problem. I have fixed one of these errors on a Chevy Venture before, so I think I can find it after working on it for several hours. U1000 codes seem hard to locate, but if it is the PDM that is not communicating then that makes it a lot easier.

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VStar650CL
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If no bags deployed then it must've been parked, that's excellent. Like I said earlier, go over the fuses with a fine tooth. The PDM may be fine but just not talking, or there may be a short in its DC supply circuit. With its proximity to the battery, if it's the latter the injured section shouldn't be hard to find.

brockwaters
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I checked the fuses. I found 5 fuse boxes under the hood and one by the passenger door. They all tested good. I did not test the relays just the 10-30 amp fuses. I tried to see if the communication line was all the way connected at the PDM it seemed fine. I tested the battery. It showed 11.99 V. I then put my suburban battery in instead of the one that was in the leaf and tested the voltage and it tested at 12.37 V. I read the codes again and now there are 21. There were 21 before I did all of that too. I think what may have changed is using a different tablet with leaf spy that did not have leaf spy installed, so it could have been using a different tablet after clearing the codes or it could have been using a updated version of leaf spy pro. Here is the updated codes: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lXYuu- ... sp=sharing. I need to research how to determine what is wrong harder. Thank you for your help!!

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VStar650CL
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2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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Will have some p/n's for you later today. Just a thought, but did you check to make sure the battery service plug is installed? Tow truck drivers usually yank them and sometimes they don't make it back into the vehicle. As far as the no-charging problem, one of those loose black connectors up front must be for the charge port comms. It will be a small 2-pin with a white and a light green wire. Those are the comm and interlock lines to the charger, they have to be connected before it will take a charge. Here's the layout:

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As I recall the interlock line (WHT) should be 12V or 5V when unconnected and pull to ground when the charger connects.

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VStar650CL
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Sorry this took so long, but I couldn't pedal any faster than the Parts guy.
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VStar650CL
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2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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From NPD, looks like all the important body parts except the fascia cross over to '18~'19, and the halogen headlights should cross over to '18~'19 as well (although you might need to rig a dummy "status" signal for the IPDM to avoid "Headlight System Error" messages).

FITS '13 TO '19
625E2-9RD0A
F2511-5SPMH
F4190-3NFMA

FITS '18 TO '19
65100-5SA0A
63101-5SA0A
63100-5SA0A
26060-5SA5B
26010-5SA5B
62550-5SK0A
62663-5SA0A
63843-5SA0A
63842-5SA0A
62070-5SA0A
62072-5SK0D

FITS '19
62257-5SF0B
62256-5SF0B

UNKNOWN (Probably '20 only)
62022-5SF3H
62032-5SA0C
F4191-5SPMA
F4181-5SPMA
F4180-5SPMA

brockwaters
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Joined: Tue May 25, 2021 4:17 pm
Car: Nissan Leaf SL Plus

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I am sick right now and have not made it back over to my friends to work on my car. I do not want my lack of action to be esteemed as ingratitude, because I really do appreciate your help. I have a 2012 leaf that Nissan said they would give me scrap metal price to trade in even though it has 7 bars battery life left. The biggest problem is they put a new cell in it and their battery charging technology can't keep the battery pack balanced so it will charge. I have wondered if it would be better to open up the pack and try and implement some balancing circuitry and close it back up then sell it than use it for parts for the 2020 Leaf, but I do not know what the best path forward is. I was thinking it might be worth pulling the parts from the 2012 Nissan leaf and making them work even if it needs a little metal work and wirer rework. Do you think that would work? I priced the parts off the site you referred me to and it came to $6,095.28. I estimate I could get $2000 for my leaf still if I posted it online. I think the best path forward is forcing the 2012 parts to fix the 2020 and selling the portion of the 2012 that I don't need. If you think fixing them both could be better I am willing to try, but I am guessing I have to get those parts for about $3000 rather than $6000 to be able to make it worth fixing both. The head lights seem to be the biggest issue in all this. $3000 for the lights seems unworkable. Is there another vehicle that ends up in the junk yard more often that might have second hand lights at a much cheaper cost. I will start calling junk yards and see if I can get a decent price on parts, but I seem to lean towards using my Nissan Leaf 2012 for parts if possible due to costs. Let me know if you think this could be made to work with some welding here and there.

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VStar650CL
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2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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I dunno, most of the major body parts don't cross over from the '12. I'd try JY's first. I can help you with refitting halogen headlights instead of LED regardless of where you get them from, that part isn't rocket science.


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