Retracting Brake Caliper Piston

[Malibu Jim]

I have seen this posted somewhere, but can't find it now. I am getting ready to replace the brake pads on my '02 I35, and I would like to know ahead of time how to retract the front and rear caliper pistons. Is there a special tool, or does it just compress in or turn in? Seems like I've seen that the front and rear are different.

[1990Q45'r]

Crack the bleeder screw , then use your hands to push the pistons in as far as they will go. This will force a small amount of brake fliud out the bleeder screw so, have a rag handy. When pistons are fully retracted, close the bleeder screw. Bad idea to push fluid back into the system.

[Q451990]

Bad idea to push fluid back into the system.

Just curious - why is that? I always just compress them back in with a large c-clamp and remove the excess fluid from the master cylinder. On the Q I also usually take the opportunity to do a full flush, but only because I'm already messing with the system anyway...

I guess with speed bleeders you wouldn't need to be concerned with air entry, but with regular bleeders wouldn't you then need to flush the brake fluid?

I know my Mom's Maxima had rear calipers that actually required turning the piston to retract them - but I'm not sure if that design carried over 10-15 years later with the I35. You can download a pirated copy of your FSM at http://www.phatg20.net/modules...id=59 or pay for one with a one day viewing subscription at http://www.infiniti-techinfo.com. Using offical site gives you access to all of the TSBs as well.

Good luck!

Heath
Modified by Q451990 at 10:30 AM 1/28/2007

[bullittandy]

Crack the bleeder screw , then use your hands to push the pistons in as far as they will go. This will force a small amount of brake fliud out the bleeder screw so, have a rag handy. When pistons are fully retracted, close the bleeder screw. Bad idea to push fluid back into the system.

Unless you have a guarantee that no air gets in the lines this is a terrible idea. Please explain why this is preferable.

Most brake pistons on front calipers simply push back into the caliper and the rear brake calipers "screw" into the caliper like a bolt. If the piston face has a notch in it then it screws in.
Modified by bullittandy at 3:45 PM 1/28/2007

[Q45tech]

Rear I35/Maxima and others require a special screw in tool to rotate the rear piston back into bore!

Doesn't everyone have a piece of small hose and a brake fluid drain bottle made from any gatoraid bottle.

Without the proper tools how are you going to get a technican job?

[bullittandy]

Rear I35/Maxima and others require a special screw in tool to rotate the rear piston back into bore!

Doesn't everyone have a piece of small hose and a brake fluid drain bottle made from any gatoraid bottle.

Without the proper tools how are you going to get a technican job?

Who are you talking to? What does this post mean?

[maxnix]

Who are you talking to? What does this post mean?

Relax, Andy. It's not meant to be read by blondes.

[bullittandy]

how did you know I was a blonde? Stalker.

[1990Q45'r]

Heath,By pushing fluid back in, you also are pushing dirty fluid with contaminated small particles back into the brake system. Just suck or pump out all the old fluid from the master cylinder you can (before it runs low of fluid) then run enough new fluid thru master to get the remaining old fluid out.I never had problems with air getting into the system if you shut the bleeder immediately after pushing pistons in. Not a problem.Always replace brake fluid when changing shoes.

[Q45tech]

With brake pads lasting 25-40k, that may not be frequent enough depending on fluid and perfection level desired.

Annually in the spring is a better way to deal with it. When you change all your other fluids: Diff, ATF, PS, Coolant, BRAKE, and test ac for summer.

Better than what usually happens in the real world, however.

[elwesso]

LIke heath, I always just use a C clamp and then flush the fluid completely when im done! thats the best method!!

[AlabamaDan]

Now somewhere around here I was told the best fluid to use was DOT 4, but the FSM says DOT 3. What's the diff and is DOT 4 just newer than the FSM?

BTW, I have a tool that's the same concept as the c-clamp. Just pushes it back. Got it at Napa for $3.

[Q45tech]

Primarily the rate of time the fluid absorbs moisture............the higher the dry boiling point the faster the fluid absorbs moisture and thus needs replacing.

If you flush every year either is fine.

[AlabamaDan]

Thanks!