retarted problems on redtop sr

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C - ROD
Posts: 563
Joined: Sun Sep 18, 2005 5:01 pm
Car: SR20DET pignose hatch

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this has been pissing me off forever, the car stumbles & feels like its falling on its face when u are in any gear trying to accelerate, it feels decent at like 5% throttle & will accelerate a little, it takes like 30 seconds to get to 60. the problem used to be intermitten, but now it is constantly happening every day. when it does happen, it will hit 10 pounds of boost but it feels like it has less power then a sohc KA, WTF? it has good vacuum, no fuel leaks, & like i said it builds foost like it should even when it feels slow it still builds boost & still slowthe motor is stock with stock turbo, walbro fuel pump, FMIC, greddy BOV, 300zx fuel filter.

ok, so this problem has been going on for too longfor the longest time my ecu was throwing a code 11 & the one for MAF, i think it was a 45, so i replaced the maf with a good one frm a sohc ka & the code went away. the code for the CAS came back tho. so i tore my harness down to look for bad grounds or broken wires & what not, i found a partially broken wire (black with white stripe) that was for the maf, i fixed the problem & cleared my codes. after a couple of days the code 11 came back & started running like **** again. so finally i replaced the cas & it was about 65% better then before. a couple of days later, it starts runing like **** again but this time it did not throw a code.

Does the sr require an intake air temp sensor? i never hooked one up, there are 2 wires on the same loom as CAS & MAF that go to nothing, there are both a female & a male end of a connector & the wires are just cut after that

could it be the ECU or maybe a TPS sensori am not an idiot, i work on cars everyday, but nit to good with diagnostics, but i do know how to use a voltmeter, but i do not know the specs for the sensors on the SRso i anyone knows anything about this problem please help me outRemember i have a brand newoem nissan CAS & a used maf & now its not throwing the codes anymore


180fan
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I'd check out the voltages comin from your TPS.

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C - ROD
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Car: SR20DET pignose hatch

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so what should the range beabout .5 closed & 4.5 fully open & a nice steady increase in between?

Q45tech
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0.44 volts fully closed is ideal and anything above 4.0 [3.8 actually] is satisfactory WOT.

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C - ROD
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Joined: Sun Sep 18, 2005 5:01 pm
Car: SR20DET pignose hatch

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does anyone think it could be anything else ?

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C - ROD
Posts: 563
Joined: Sun Sep 18, 2005 5:01 pm
Car: SR20DET pignose hatch

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checked the TPS today & at closed throttle it is .449& WOT is 4.21according to the tecs at my work this is close enough to the specs so now what should i check, the ignitor, coilpacks ? im stumped & out of answers

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rogoman
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Car: 1991 240SX FB
2012 Altima 2.5 S

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The SR does not use an intake air temp sensor.

Your problem may still be bad wiring; also check the grounds.

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C - ROD
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Car: SR20DET pignose hatch

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dude i have gone through almost my entire harness

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C - ROD
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Car: SR20DET pignose hatch

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anyone else nave ant ideas?

574-240sx
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Car: Nissans, Toyotas, Subaru

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When was the last time you did your timing. Also did you put the CAS in the right position when you put the new one in. If that doesn't help, start swaping out parts like ignitors, coilpacks and ecu. If that doesn't do it check your wiring.

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rotorimp
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Is the temp sensor ok? I like to trouble shoot at the ecu. then you can see pretty much what the ecu is seeing. BTW how do your spark plugs look? It idles ok right?

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C - ROD
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Car: SR20DET pignose hatch

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yes my timing is right,& yes when i put the new CAS in i aligned it the right way, by using the dots on it & the #1 cylinder on TDC on compression stroke

& no offense but swapping out pats is not a good idea, it is very costly & that is what i have been doing all along & it hasnt really helped other then not throwing codes anymorei dont really have the money to buy anymore parts that is not going to help it, i wish i did, B/C then i would know everything was operating the way it should bedo u think it could be the ecu power or ground ?i am going to go through that part of my harness tomarrow

574-240sx
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I was just saying if there was anyone local that had a SR that wouldn't mind helping swap parts for known good parts. I help my friends with that all the time.

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C - ROD
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Car: SR20DET pignose hatch

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the spark plugs are new also, ngk iridium, yes it idles right most of the time.what should the resistance be on the temp sensor?

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C - ROD
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Car: SR20DET pignose hatch

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all of my friends are running RB's & KA's so there isnt an easy access for known working parts, unless u have some to loan me ? lol

180fan
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use the ka plugs.

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C - ROD
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Car: SR20DET pignose hatch

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i already put new plugs in it& it did not change anything, it still runs the same
Modified by C - ROD at 9:18 PM 8/4/2006

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rogoman
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Car: 1991 240SX FB
2012 Altima 2.5 S

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You may have a fuel delivery problem. Install a temporary fuel pressure gauge between the fuel filter and the fuel log to see if it's holding the proper pressure under boost.

Maybe the fuel mixture is too lean under boost. What type of fuel management are you using?

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C - ROD
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Car: SR20DET pignose hatch

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i dont have any type of fuel management, just a walbro 255 lph fuel pump, & a 300 zx fuel filteraccording to my A/F gauge, its running rich under boost, not excessively rich though. its not a wideband or anything thogh

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C - ROD
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Joined: Sun Sep 18, 2005 5:01 pm
Car: SR20DET pignose hatch

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does anyone think that it could be the knock sensor like getting a false reading & thinking that it is detonating & like retarding the timing of something


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