Restoring Power
Restoring Power
I was planning on cleaning my throttle body and plenum and other various engine parts on my car that I imagine get gooped up. I was just wondering if this could possibly restore any lost power I could of lost over the years?
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ash1y1
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Rstoring lost power
What specifically can I do to restore lost power? So far I have read the following:
1. Clean throttle body and plenum. (what is a plenum? As you can see I'm not very auto smart)2. Clean engine harness connectors?3. What else specifically can I clean or do to restore lost power?
Will a tune-up help at all? What else?
1. Clean throttle body and plenum. (what is a plenum? As you can see I'm not very auto smart)2. Clean engine harness connectors?3. What else specifically can I clean or do to restore lost power?
Will a tune-up help at all? What else?
the plenum is what the throttle body is connected 2, the big thing that says eccs. You could take all the intake manifold off and clean it, your head and clean it, clean piston tops, valves, etc. etc. Thats one reason cars get slower and slower, its due to excessive build up of crap(oil,dirt,etc. etc.)
Well thats gonna give me something to do, later
Well thats gonna give me something to do, later
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Dattebayo
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yeah the plenum would say ECCS on it IF IF you had a SOHC. But he has a DOHC and the plenum is on the passenger side of the motor right where the intake comes into the engine, under the 4 runners. By the way its not that easy to take out, you will need impact tools to get the braces off that support the plenum to the block. (well at least on my s13 thats the issue)
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Nismo_Freak
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TrueSlide wrote:Im gonna take the intake off cause I plan to take out my butterflies.
Butterfly... also note that this will effect your low end torque and may make the car idle rough. As for the tune-up ... being an S14 the car prolly doesnt need one too badly. Check your plugs for electrode damage and overall condition. Also check the rest of the ignition system for signs of wear (aka it looks toasted). Performing a leak down or a compression check on the car is easy and cheap if you can find a compression gauge from a friend. Advance the timing on your car about 2 degrees to regain some low end torque and non-WOT response. Change the oil if it needs it. Other than that you really dont need to do anything else.
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ash1y1
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Hey Nismo_Freak?
How do I go about performing this task you stated in an earlier post?
"Advance the timing on your car about 2 degrees to regain some low end torque and non-WOT response."
"Advance the timing on your car about 2 degrees to regain some low end torque and non-WOT response."
Quote »How do I go about performing this task you stated in an earlier post?[/quote]
Look at the distributor (where all the plugs wires go to from the valve cover). Loosen off the two adjusting bolts (10mm). Shine the inductive timing light that you rented, borrowed, bought or stole onto the driver's side of the lower (water pump) pulley. There should be timing marks that the light will flash onto. You can see where the dashes are, that tells you what your timing is. I believe the top dash represents -5 deg. on a DOHC and then every line below that is equal to 5 degrees more. ie. 0,5,10,15, 20 degrees. The bottom dash is 20 degrees I know that for sure. Stock spec for a DOHC is 20+-2 degrees.
If you advance the timing to 22 or 24 you will want to use premium fuel otherwise you *could* cause detonation and lack of power thanks to your knock sensor retarding the timing (if it senses the detonation).
I am toying with my timing right now. I have it set at 28 degrees. I have high output ignition and also a cold air intake which both reduce the chances of detonation; however I think I'm going to lower it back to 23-24 and take it back to the track to see if there is any difference.
Good luck
Look at the distributor (where all the plugs wires go to from the valve cover). Loosen off the two adjusting bolts (10mm). Shine the inductive timing light that you rented, borrowed, bought or stole onto the driver's side of the lower (water pump) pulley. There should be timing marks that the light will flash onto. You can see where the dashes are, that tells you what your timing is. I believe the top dash represents -5 deg. on a DOHC and then every line below that is equal to 5 degrees more. ie. 0,5,10,15, 20 degrees. The bottom dash is 20 degrees I know that for sure. Stock spec for a DOHC is 20+-2 degrees.
If you advance the timing to 22 or 24 you will want to use premium fuel otherwise you *could* cause detonation and lack of power thanks to your knock sensor retarding the timing (if it senses the detonation).
I am toying with my timing right now. I have it set at 28 degrees. I have high output ignition and also a cold air intake which both reduce the chances of detonation; however I think I'm going to lower it back to 23-24 and take it back to the track to see if there is any difference.
Good luck
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bruinbear714
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A regular tuneup would help you regain lost power.
Here's a list of what I would change out in a MAJOR tuneup:
1) spark plugs - get the ngk platinums2) spark plug wires3) distributor cap and rotor4) fuel filter5) air filter6) drive belts7) pcv valve8) thermostat9) flush and change out ALL the fluids10) clean out your throttle plate and the area around it.
Also, look in the factory manual and see what the stock timing is and advance it a few degrees to get a little more power by adjusting your distributor.
Here's a list of what I would change out in a MAJOR tuneup:
1) spark plugs - get the ngk platinums2) spark plug wires3) distributor cap and rotor4) fuel filter5) air filter6) drive belts7) pcv valve8) thermostat9) flush and change out ALL the fluids10) clean out your throttle plate and the area around it.
Also, look in the factory manual and see what the stock timing is and advance it a few degrees to get a little more power by adjusting your distributor.
HEy nate dog, will the directions you gave for advancing timing work on an automatic kA24de S13?
And since its automatic, will it hurt anything?
Also which way do you turn the distributor, and does it have some sorta pointer that will line up with the timing marks as you turn it, and then set it at?
You have clear instructions, and I wanted use them since they make since!
Thanks,Chris
And since its automatic, will it hurt anything?
Also which way do you turn the distributor, and does it have some sorta pointer that will line up with the timing marks as you turn it, and then set it at?
You have clear instructions, and I wanted use them since they make since!
Thanks,Chris
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MikeMurphy
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Plug into your OBD port and get some readings. Note if something doesent seem right, like how Mav found that his coolant was reading -20 degrees on a warm day. This shouldnt take you long and may help ya out. he got some huge gains back from replacing his coolant temp. sensor.
Also, do a search on "seafoam". Many people stand by this as a must. FYI consider replacing your O2 sensors right afterwards as I hear it fouls them up by all the heavy smoke it produces.
Again, do a search, but I recall someone filling their car with crappy oil, taking off the oil drain plug and filter, and then starting the car for a few seconds and reving it lightly. IIRC alot of nasty stuff came shooting out very quickly. He repeated this step a few times with some cheap oil. May want to run it normally for a few moments between these oil changes to make sure everything is lubed a bit.
Also, seriously consider taking off your manual belt fan and installing an electric.
Good luck!
Also, do a search on "seafoam". Many people stand by this as a must. FYI consider replacing your O2 sensors right afterwards as I hear it fouls them up by all the heavy smoke it produces.
Again, do a search, but I recall someone filling their car with crappy oil, taking off the oil drain plug and filter, and then starting the car for a few seconds and reving it lightly. IIRC alot of nasty stuff came shooting out very quickly. He repeated this step a few times with some cheap oil. May want to run it normally for a few moments between these oil changes to make sure everything is lubed a bit.
Also, seriously consider taking off your manual belt fan and installing an electric.
Good luck!
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Silent Drifter
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