responsive SR
responsive SR
I was watching some of my Best Motoring videos i downloaded off of Kazaa and they were testing a Mine's Skyline, and I gluess this thing was build for response. I was wondering how do you make a motor thats responsive, obviously light wight flywheel, but what other components? (rods, pistons?) Also I heard that HKS cams were hollow so they're lighter compared to stock cams, does anyone know if this is true?
All the internal engine stuff matters to a point, but it is really *really* negligible compared to other things.
The biggest thing that could make or break how an engine feels is the turbo you pick for it. The stock T25 feels very linear, way moreso than that Mine's Skyline seemed to be(that thing had some monster lag and monster power!). A lightweight flywheel is probably the next upgrade, since I still feel the engine is a bit sluggish in the low gears even with my 10.5 lb TODA flywheel.
Just don't go with a honkin' turbo and the engine will feel good. All that other stuff is just a way to spend money for that last 0.00001% improvement.
The biggest thing that could make or break how an engine feels is the turbo you pick for it. The stock T25 feels very linear, way moreso than that Mine's Skyline seemed to be(that thing had some monster lag and monster power!). A lightweight flywheel is probably the next upgrade, since I still feel the engine is a bit sluggish in the low gears even with my 10.5 lb TODA flywheel.
Just don't go with a honkin' turbo and the engine will feel good. All that other stuff is just a way to spend money for that last 0.00001% improvement.
It really isn't, it's got a fair bit of lag on it if you watch the video closely. Although between shifts isn't near as bad as the torque down low before the turbos can spool.
That's just the nature of turbos, the bigger of one you fit on your engine, the more lag it will have but can make more power. Proper sizing can make sure the lag increase is minimal, but you'll never escape that basic fact that a bigger turbo = more lag and less response.
That's just the nature of turbos, the bigger of one you fit on your engine, the more lag it will have but can make more power. Proper sizing can make sure the lag increase is minimal, but you'll never escape that basic fact that a bigger turbo = more lag and less response.
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the big thing is to reduce rotational mass. As Def said, most of the components take away slightly from rotational mass whereas the flywheel and turbo make up the major portion of a responsive car.
The cams are hollowed out to reduce valvetrain mass. It takes power to rotate the camshafts, so by reducing overall mass, you reduce the power it takes to spin them. Mitsubishi puts hollowed cams in the Evo's 4G63 from the factory. In the end, it's more or a yardstick part than it is a great upgrade (look at me! i got hollow cams! i'm so cool!)
MOst places you want to reduce rotational mass is in the drivetrain. Flywheel, clutch assembly, and driveshaft can play a significant part in the engines ability to rev.
One thing I've seen done on big power motors that have been purpose built are to reduce what's called windage losses. Deburring the crank case of all casting flash, smoothing the counterweights and deburring the crankshaft, as well as cleaning the oil passages helps keep the oil from interfering with the crankshaft as it spins. In the end, you wouldn't really notice a difference in how the engine revved, so it would seem like money wasted. I can see true race cars being the only cars to actually benefit from that procedure.
The cams are hollowed out to reduce valvetrain mass. It takes power to rotate the camshafts, so by reducing overall mass, you reduce the power it takes to spin them. Mitsubishi puts hollowed cams in the Evo's 4G63 from the factory. In the end, it's more or a yardstick part than it is a great upgrade (look at me! i got hollow cams! i'm so cool!)
MOst places you want to reduce rotational mass is in the drivetrain. Flywheel, clutch assembly, and driveshaft can play a significant part in the engines ability to rev.
One thing I've seen done on big power motors that have been purpose built are to reduce what's called windage losses. Deburring the crank case of all casting flash, smoothing the counterweights and deburring the crankshaft, as well as cleaning the oil passages helps keep the oil from interfering with the crankshaft as it spins. In the end, you wouldn't really notice a difference in how the engine revved, so it would seem like money wasted. I can see true race cars being the only cars to actually benefit from that procedure.
You could also go to a thinner oil.Now I ( and most others) recommend a 50 weight oil for a turbo powered car especially in summer.I rin M1 15w-50 in the SR so does Paul aka Movingviolation240 and many others, ..... but if you were to get a 40 weight thats real strong for a 40 weight...
Say a Mobil1 0w-40, or even better Redline, 5w-40 or 10w-40, you would see some faster turbo spool.
But I woudlnt recommend to go crazy, like a 20 weight or a thin 30 weight, or to try this with a non synthetic oil.
But its an idea, but can only be safely done with a premium synthetic thats at least a group IV lube stock ( Mobil1, AMSOIL) or a group V ( Redline).Nearly all other syns (except the spendy exotics like Torco, Motul) are only group III oils.
Fred..
Say a Mobil1 0w-40, or even better Redline, 5w-40 or 10w-40, you would see some faster turbo spool.
But I woudlnt recommend to go crazy, like a 20 weight or a thin 30 weight, or to try this with a non synthetic oil.
But its an idea, but can only be safely done with a premium synthetic thats at least a group IV lube stock ( Mobil1, AMSOIL) or a group V ( Redline).Nearly all other syns (except the spendy exotics like Torco, Motul) are only group III oils.
Fred..
I am not advertising it as a wise soltution, especially since with a T25 like in mine spool is immediate.
But if I had a bigger turbo,.
Keeping in mind I'd trust Redline 5w-40 to protect better than the Dino 50 weights, many use, then its something I migth consider...Oxidation resitance (which is higher with thick oils) is much higher with syns. A medium weight syn probably protects as well as a dina 50 weight.A thicker syn like, redline 5w-40 probably better, while being thinner than the dino 50 and spooling faster.
How big a difference hard to say might be insignificant .
If I had a T3/T4 I would probably give it a try.
Fred..
But if I had a bigger turbo,.
Keeping in mind I'd trust Redline 5w-40 to protect better than the Dino 50 weights, many use, then its something I migth consider...Oxidation resitance (which is higher with thick oils) is much higher with syns. A medium weight syn probably protects as well as a dina 50 weight.A thicker syn like, redline 5w-40 probably better, while being thinner than the dino 50 and spooling faster.
How big a difference hard to say might be insignificant .
If I had a T3/T4 I would probably give it a try.
Fred..