Requesting set-up input

[southernsteel]

Maybe a sticky should be set up for people wanting to request input on build set ups to lessen the clutter?

So I've gone over the post here and the post on ka-t.org about set ups and I think I have most of it figured it out. I'm a little lost on the small things which I've read can really make or break a build.

I'm wanting at least 300whp.

Blue ridge motorsports mani and dp
gt3076r .63 a/r
3" turbo back exhaust (do I need a turbo elbow?)
Tial 38mm wastegate
Walbro (is an adj fpr necessary?)
Enthalpy tune
550cc injectors
Z32 Maf and pigtail
Mishimoto cooling kit (radiator, fans and t-stat)
Spec stage 2
spec flywheel
248/232 cam setup
FMIC with piping (not sure what size to pick?)
greddy bov

For supporting and monitoring I've got
apex'i turbo timer
aem wideband
aem oil psi
aem boost/controller in one
aem water temp


The motor was just rebuilt using the original pistons and rods but gaskets, seals and timing chain are all new. Timing was advanced 15 degrees when rebuilt and I know that will have to be retarded when I put the turbo on. As I said about the little things, I don't know much about AN- fittings and I'm a little lost on why an adj fpr is needed for this application, as I was under the impression that the stock fpr works at a 1:1 rate as well. I'm also confused on picking the core size for the intercooler as I don't want it to be so massive that pressure is lost but I don't want it to be small so that it heatsoaks.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

What is the spec stage 2 clutch rated at?

Whether or not you need a turbo elbow is completely dependent on your downpipe/exhaust design. You'll have to check with whoever you are buying that from.

The adjustable FPR isn't necessary, but what it WILL do for you is be able to shift your entire tune richer/leaner (like if your enthalpy ECU comes in too rich and you want to lean it out across the entire RPM range). Definitely something that can be added later though.

Intercoolers aren't really an exact science. You basically want the maximum amount of exposed area (meaning its seeing airflow through it), with the minimum amount of non-exposed area (so as to reduce pressure drop), while also keeping the work-ability of your intercooler piping/bumper, etc. AND you want all that while being as cheap as possible haha. Just be careful when you read "CAN SUPPORT UP TO 600HP!!!", because in most applications, it wont be operating in ideal circumstances (some of it will be covered, etc). Something like this SHOULD work fairly well: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CXRacing ... ccessories
or you could buy an entire vehicle specific intercooler kit that comes with mounting hardware, piping, directions, etc.

[GTR PrYdE]

Your setup sounds solid.

That turbo can be a bit expensive but will work well.

For FMIC try to find one that's 11" tall, opposed to the 12" tall as it will scrape less. Cxracing probably makes he exact kit I'm talking about. 3" core will be fine

An afpr would be ideal as I don't think the stock fpr is reliable.

Clutch sounds good, I run a spec 2+ but yours will hold similar tq.

Greddy bov doesn't hold a ton of boost but it will work up to 20psi IMO

[GTR PrYdE]

Also, very important.

What are your plans for the oil pressure sensor?

I would recommend a remote oil pressure kit for anyone installing one. Autometer makes one for 10-15 bucks. This installs on the T you'll use to run the sensor.

[southernsteel]

What is the spec stage 2 clutch rated at?

Whether or not you need a turbo elbow is completely dependent on your downpipe/exhaust design. You'll have to check with whoever you are buying that from.

The adjustable FPR isn't necessary, but what it WILL do for you is be able to shift your entire tune richer/leaner (like if your enthalpy ECU comes in too rich and you want to lean it out across the entire RPM range). Definitely something that can be added later though.

Intercoolers aren't really an exact science. You basically want the maximum amount of exposed area (meaning its seeing airflow through it), with the minimum amount of non-exposed area (so as to reduce pressure drop), while also keeping the work-ability of your intercooler piping/bumper, etc. AND you want all that while being as cheap as possible haha. Just be careful when you read "CAN SUPPORT UP TO 600HP!!!", because in most applications, it wont be operating in ideal circumstances (some of it will be covered, etc). Something like this SHOULD work fairly well: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CXRacing ... ccessories
or you could buy an entire vehicle specific intercooler kit that comes with mounting hardware, piping, directions, etc.

I didn't see a multi quote button or I would have hit that.

Anyways, clutch is rated for 300 ft lbs. If need be I can change that out with something higher. I looked at the downpipe design and it looks like it attaches to the turbo. Thanks for the info on the intercooler and fpr, that helped a lot lol


GTR- I was looking at finding a sandwich block for the oil pressure sensor, but that summit setup looks like what I'll need. I don't plan on boosting over 20, but I know how it goes. As for the turbo, it seems like it'll give me the power band I'm looking for. I'm open to suggestions on t3 turbos though. As I stated in the first post, I want to make at least 300whp. I'm nowhere near being opposed to making more once I go standalone.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Yeah, you're always better off getting more clutch than you need. I'd upgrade past a stage 2.