Req. Any/All advice-14 Cube no start, Scan codes provided

[cuber20]

Hi all,
I've seen some great answers on this site to some seemingly complicated issues, hopefully someone can advise me on what to do and who to turn to, as my local Nissan dealer is unfamiliar with Cube models and has strung me along.

Whew! this is long sorry! But I feel all the info is needed:
I have a 2014 Cube, 1.8 Ltr that won't start or crank. All interior lights, key fob, and keyless entry are working.
Here are some facts and a little about what I've done so far...

- I was using a GPS unit for Metronile Insurance that plugged nto the OBD-11 port. This was causing issues and everything under the sun interfered with the immobilizer sensor. (Which I believe is located in the steering wheel?)
I wanted to disable this feature, and when my car did not start after charging it with jumper cables, I took it into my local Nissan dealer for a new battery and to disable the immob. - I had thought to get a new battery regardless because there was a bit of corrosion, and according to my vehicle report, a new battery was purchased about every year, so I thought to just get a new one, as I hadn't since I bought it in 2022.

- I got the car with 45,000 miles, it's not at 46,875. From Jan 2022 to current. I drove it to Palm Springs and back Oct 2022, it ran great! that was almost 17 hours round trip! Got
- Got it smogged in after purchase as well, and a code I got recently mentions the need to calculate some number before a Smog. (see below)

_ There was a steering wheel sensor recall for 14' cubes, but my vin# was not on the list, and so the dealership would not do it.

- My dealer had never heard of an immobilizer, and did not know any of the various ways you can reset it to start the car.
I sent them informative videos, links and instructions to reset, as I had been successful in doing these resets and starting the car 3 separate times in March and April when most the trouble began occurring.

- The Delaership said they could not get a read or any codes.
I mentioned putting in a new battery, (as I had asked for one anyway), and that would reset the ECU, maybe they'd get a read.
- They did not and had not shared anything with me in regards to progress or what they thought was the issue. So after a week, I asked for an invoice and an update on where they were at.

- They had not found the issue and said they needed more time.. which is $240 an hour.
I took my car back home to troubleshoot myself, but sadly, a multitude of things came up and I had little time.

- I bought a Bluedriver OBD-11 scanner, (with features and repair advice, etc)
- I bought and installed a new battery, (or my friend did, who is qualified, but works mostly with classic cars, and unfamiliar with electric components etc).
- he checked all fuses, both the driver side box in the front cabin, and under the hood. - All looked and functioned properly to his knowledge.
- I tried taking the steering panel off to get to the sensor, or the starter relay button to see if it was jammed, but there was no access without removing more.
- i performed 2 scans, (one before the battery was put in and one after) Both scans produced the same 3 codes..

Scan Codes:
#1 - B26F1-00 "Ignition Relay off"
#2 - E/R Code: B210E-00, "Starter Relay off"
#3 - B2562-00 Low Voltage

Desperate for my car back, and equipped with these codes and a new battery, I took it back to the dealership. - All hell broke lose and I am at the end of my rope...

- I was told they needed to replace the BCM, but that I had to search for one and purchase it, because nissan discontinued it.
I still have never heard of the customer having to do this..?
- Nevertheless I set out to do it and asked them for he part #.
- I was told verbatim, "Just do a search of your yr, make and model, then get a BCM that matches.
- I found one, sent him the link online and invoice, which he confirmed was the correct part.
- I called and got it over the phone, also I could pay the $50 to get it overnighted to me. and when it arrived at 11am the next day. I took an under and ran it over there.
- They called me a few hours later to tell me that the BCM I got did not fit.

At this point, I said "take a picture of my BCM underneath the hood, and I want a photo taken of it, with all the numbers visible.

I got that, and found some online, but with no warrantee.
I am so confused and have gotten to the point where I'm so mad I can't even make a decision. I am basically shutting down.

There is a local shop near me that says they work with Cubes. This came from a guy who first towed my car to the dealership.
It did not seem as though he was trying to get business, but that he wanted to help.

- If I took it to a non Nissan shop, are they able and do they have to equipment to program a BCM?
(Not sure if you are told to take it to Nissan for business purposes).

- Can anyone tell me what the rules are around discontinued items, and what obligations the dealers have to get what is needed in order to fix my car. I've spend over 6k on rental cars, etc since April. I coulda bought another car! '
I could use some sound advice here, and would like to avoid at all costs, being forced to purchase a BCM for 1k-1500k, with no guarantee at all. I don't want to spend 1k on an unwarranted BCM.

- Can anyone advise me on what should I do, and or what my options are?
I don't have an active warranty any longer..

Thanks for reading all this1
~Cuber20

[VStar650CL]

First, the BCM isn't under the hood, and second, any Nissan tech knows what the immobilizer is. So you're clearly not talking to technicians and there's clearly some sort of ignorant hose job going on. Third, if you do need a BCM, there's a part number on it and you need to match that exactly, not by MMY. Fourth, all of those codes are classic "low battery crap", and if they do indicate any problem besides the battery, it's most likely the IPDM and not the BCM. Fifth, you can't "remove" the immobilizer. You'd need to put in an aftermarket ECM and wire completely around the BCM and IPDM, which is pretty much impossible without spending thousands of dollars. You can "trick" the system by taping a key to the IMMU underneath the steering column cover, which will allow starting the car with a "dumb" key. That's all, you can't get rid of it.

You're clearly dealing with people who have no clue what the f#ck they're doing, or even what they're talking about. Has anyone checked all the fuses?

[cuber20]

Hi, thanks for your reply.
I agree with you and want to clarify just a few things.
Although I am thoroughly pissed off, I am not on here to complain about my dealership but to fix my car. I mention their inadequate knowledge and unfamiliarity, because, the few times I have spoken a mechanic or parts specialist, I am told to, "take it to my dealer".
even though I have already mentioned my car being there. Most people don't give me answers because it seems crazy that the dealership would not be the one contacting them, and or that they don't know how to fix these things. You are dead right when you say, they don't know what the f*ck they are doing.
Either way, my car is not fixed and I have to work around them and with what I have, so I am looking to others and all resources possible.
Unfortunately, because it's me talking and not a pro, I can get some of the parts or functions confused, with the ECM, BCM, so saying it was "under the hood" came from me, and in my frustration with them having my buy my own damn part without a part number. I had said, I want a picture of the BCM, wherever it is, I want to see it in my car, and all the numbers, so there's no confusion. But I don't know its exact location..Just that it is the part I was told to get and I needed. Though, I was never confident of that either.

Because this issue is electrical, I can't ask my question to you and make the sounds ya know? haha. This is a different world it seems, but when it comes to what has been communicated with my guy in the service department, I have begun, and or followed up with all conversations, steps, and information via email. It's all in writing, and their not knowing what the immobilizer is, as well as them having me locate and purchase the BCM, all in writing. What I am saying is in fact happening, and why I am at such a profound loss as to what to do.
I would like to tow my car out of there, but where, and what are my options at this point?

As for the fuses, they were checked, and all seem fine. The one thing my friend noticed was that there appeared to be one small wire he did not recognize located under the dash. A very thin black wire, which was open on one end. He took pictures, trying to trace its origin, of which is unknown. Maybe this info is useless, but, in going through all my notes and research this morning, I ran across the photos, so thought to share.
My photos won't attach on here, but we never actually found where it led, as it was way up under the dash and too many things were the way, I couldn't even fit my hand up that high. I believe there were after-market speakers installed if that might be important.

I don't think I can diagnose this myself and would like to take it somewhere else, but have a few questions before determining where to take it, whether another Nissan dealer or an outside party. Could you help me clarify a few things in regards to that?

- Does the dealership have equipment that can diagnose issues that a regular mechanic cannot?
- If it is determined I needed a new IPDM or BCM, whichever, would a non-nissan shop be able to program or reprogram a part?

Thank you.

[VStar650CL]

Neither the BCM or IPDM are "programmable" per se. The IPDM's are plug-and-play, the BCM isn't programmable for security reasons but replacing it does require registering the keys (not DIY without a top-end scanner, but most locksmiths can do it). However, none of the codes you posted particularly indicate a bad part. So let's take this back to basics.
1) Does it crank but not start, or fail to crank?
2) Do the cluster lights do anything funky when you're cranking (or trying to)?
3) Is the security light in the cluster solid red after you turn the key, or does it go out?

[cuber20]

Hi again. I decided to check in here and realized I sent my reply the same day my server was down, so it appears it was never sent. My apologies for the delay. and thank you for following up with me.

I'm glad you asked me these questions because this made me recall that I had recorded a video the last time I tried to start my car, which was after the new battery was put in.
This is what happens when I attempt to start, pushing the start button for 10 seconds.

This was the first time I watched the video, and I noticed a portion of the cluster lights were doing something funky. But only when I first tried to start it. This happened ONLY with the lights in the window with the gas gauge, mileage, and temperature, then the tiny window below that one with the "P" (park) light. They were coming on in a sort of wave, dim, less dim, then full glow. It was really fast as if it was reading or charging up. Not sure if that makes any sense. I am sorry I couldn't figure out how to get the video or photos on here, even after formatting them as listed on the site.
Not sure if this has ever happened before with these lights and I missed it because I was focused on the major warning lights.
These lights came on normally after this point.

When I try to start it, there is no crank, but there is a ding, (kinda like the sound a car makes when you open the door to exit and the keys are still in the ignition). I heard three dings, then no noise. =(all doors were closed)

- When I push the start button the following lights go on but do not stay on.
a. Intelligent Key
b. Battery
c. VDC
d. oil
e. Airbag

When the car is in the off position the only light that remains on is the foot on the pedal, (the engine start operation indicator).

Hope this helps, thanks again, and sorry for the delay!

[VStar650CL]

Since it isn't cranking, then is the security icon in the cluster (red key) out when you turn the ignition on? Does it blink when the ignition is off?
1) If both of those things are true then it isn't a security issue and your prime suspect would be the IPDM. That is, if you're certain the battery is good and if you're certain all the battery connections (including the engine ground at the transmission and chassis ground underneath the battery tray) are good. Big ifs, because frankly, the in-and-out behavior of the cluster lights sounds like a crappy connection somewhere.
2) If the red key is lit solid with the ignition on but blinks when the ignition is off, then it is a security issue and you won't get to the bottom of it without a high end scanner.

[cuber20]

It does go on and it does blink when the ignition is off. Over the course of these months, anytime I spent with the car and tried to start it, all other lights would go off, either after 10 or so seconds, or when the ignition was off. This one is the only one that I ever remember blinking, which at the time, I was grateful for, since the manual said that if it was solid, than you might really have an issue.

I bought a Bludriver OBDII scanner, which is said to read all codes, etc. There are a lot of features I did not use, mostly becasue I ended up taking it in. There's also 24 hour technicians to assist, though, not sure to what extent.

I don't mind spending the money, so long as I know I am getting something that is going to work. There are too many options and things to consider for me to know which one, but I am happy ro take your recommendation if you have one??

Also, I am getting my car out of the shop and I was unsure parking it at my house, as I have a steep hill, and the car would be parked on it up hill. I can also take it back to my friend's house, which is flat, but may take me longer to get over there and check everything again.

If I can't start it, I will need to take it somewhere else. If my car is no longer under warranty, do you see any reason why i would need to take it to a dealerhsip? Or can I bring it to a recommended mechanic?

Thanks again for your assistance.

[VStar650CL]

If the red key is lit when you turn the key, then it's a security issue, and since it doesn't crank, that most likely means the ECM is offline. Try to connect to the ECM with your BlueDriver by streaming some parameter like engine temperature or ignition timing that comes from the engine. If it won't connect then the ECM is down. If so, check the EGI fuse #43 in the IPDM with a test lamp, not visually. If #43 has power then check for power at pin 43 of the IPDM with the key on, that's the ECM Relay output. If that has power then your ECM is shot. If it doesn't, use a voltmeter to check pin 32 with key on and key off. It should read battery voltage with the key off and below 1V with the key on. If it reads below 1V all the time then the IPDM is bad, otherwise the ECM is bad. The layout for the IPDM can be found on PG-79 here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 4%2FPG.pdf