Replacing the throw-out bearing?

[Doomed2Walk]

Hey guys, need some help. How difficult is it to replace the throw-out bearing and idle bearing? My friend suggested that's what the problem is. Here's the deal: Got SR swap, with bolt-ons like intake, fuel pump, dp, tp, cat-back. Also have an exedy stage 2 clutch, but then the clutch began to become real soft, and the gearbox would occasionally grind when shifting. So I thought it could be the master/slave. Replaced those, bypassed the damper with a SS line and the clutch feels a lot stiffer now, but I'll still have the occasional grinding problem. My friend thinks it could be the bearing yesterday at a light I was in first with the clutch in for like 20 seconds then it starts grinding, so I put it in neutral and hear grinding until I take my foot off the clutch. So is this the cause of the problems and how much and how difficult is it to replace? If it's too difficult for me I can bring it to my dad's friend, but I'd like to know if that's what's causing it. Thanks again.

[Hijacker]

definitely throw out bearing. did they not put a new TO bearing in when they did the swap? The last exedy clutch I installed came with a 300ZX style TO bearing. Anyways, go ahead and replace the TO bearing.

[Doomed2Walk]

I guess they didn't. How much does a new throw-out bearing and idle bearing cost? My friend said that they're pretty cheap, it's just a big hassle to take the transmission out to replace them. Also, it's been like that for maybe less than a week, and I've driven it about 60 miles total, how much damage you think has been done to the transmission? First and second are a bit more difficult to get into now.

[Hijacker]

the trans shouldn't have seen any damage from a seized TO bearing. the grinding you should have been hearing should have been coming from the TO bearing. When you disengage the clutch by holding the pedal down, the bearing presses into the pressure plate. Since the pressure plate is still rotating, the TO bearing has to rotate with it. Once it begins to seize, it will grind either against itself since it has two parts, or against the pressure plate. Worst case scenario, the pressure plate may need replacing.

I think your friend's reference to the idle bearing is just another name for the TO bearing. The TO is the only one I know of on the input shaft of the trans.

And, yes it will be a PITA to get to the bearing. I hate pulling transmissions out of cars.

[msaskin]

The only other thing I could think of him calling the "idle bearing" may be the Pilot Bushing?? Either way, those don't go bad.

I agree w/ bart though...time for you to pull off the trans and get a new TOB. If the pressure plate looks at all damaged, replace it too.

~matt

[Doomed2Walk]

Blah, this looks to be like a LONG weekend.

[yellow_jacket]

Does the SR use a pilot bushing or an actual pilot bearing(needle bearing). If it is a bushing, it is much less likely to go bad, but it still happens.

Either way, they do go bad and will cause problems shifing because the input shaft of the transmission will not be allowed to decelerate properly. This makes the syncro's job next to impossible. If it is a bushing, it is much less likely to go bad, but it still happens.

As far as the grinding you are hearing, it would appear to be the TO bearing because it only does it with the clutch pedal down and it does it both in gear and out of gear. I have seen them get bad enough to destroy the housing it slides on, but this generally is worst case scenario and you would hear an incredible amount of noise.

[TachyonS14]

When I replaced my stock clutch with a new clutch I used a Koyo TO bearing. And Once I had it all bolted up and done, my car makes that same chatter/grind noise that you have. It only does it sometimes, It's really weird. But If I were you, I would not get a Koyo TO. I'd like to get a new TO bearing so I could get rid of that noise but getting that transmission out is a big job.

[msaskin]

The SR uses a pilot bushing, not a needle bearing setup.

As for transmission R&R...yeah...it sucks.

Words of advice:-Get the car up as high as possible on 4 jackstands (or a lift if you're lucky)-You will probably have to dent in the transmission tunnel/firewall from underneath with a hammer to get it lined up...don't worry, it's fun

~matt

[IveBeenBad]

The SR uses a pilot bushing, not a needle bearing setup.

As for transmission R&R...yeah...it sucks.

Words of advice:-Get the car up as high as possible on 4 jackstands (or a lift if you're lucky)-You will probably have to dent in the transmission tunnel/firewall from underneath with a hammer to get it lined up...don't worry, it's fun

~matt

you donbt have to dent the tunnel... gotta put the trans in sideways and turn it after then input shaft is inserted... the starter hump will hit if you just try and do it without turning the trans sideways.

[msaskin]

you donbt have to dent the tunnel... gotta put the trans in sideways and turn it after then input shaft is inserted... the starter hump will hit if you just try and do it without turning the trans sideways.

I just went through this on sunday...we spun the transmission so the starter hump was facing straight down...we still had to dent the tunnel. I guess if you're on old stock mounts they may have enough flex to tilt the motor down, but with the nismo mounts on there it just wasn't happening. we loosened the mounts, jacked the front of the motor up to tilt it back, and still had to dent the tunnel somewhat to get it to line up.

~matt