I have '95 J30. I wanted to change the stock Bose stereo with a dual din something other with a decent size television. I just wanted to know the specs of that standard bose system so I wouldn't loose any "kick" to my stock Bose speakers...any recommendation as far as what to go with?
I also told the board that I had planned to change my lights out and people suggested that I go with sylvannia lights so I wouldn't burn out the fuses or something like that. Anyway, does this go the same for adding interior custom lights and/or strobe lights? I still not 100% sure what the setup is going to look like, but I wanted to be sure I would cause any damage to my lighting system. Thanks.
Replacing the stock Bose Stereo
Hmmm, might want to take a look (search J30 Bose)in the Audio/Entertainment/Security forum, but for now ....
The J's Bose system, if like the Q's, has a "amp" on each speaker making an upgarde anything but simple. There are a few threads discussing this in the above mentioned forum, but I doubt you'd be able to add an in-dash unit w/TV and <not> replace the entire system.
Good luck and happy searching.
I got nothing on the lighting questions, sorry
The J's Bose system, if like the Q's, has a "amp" on each speaker making an upgarde anything but simple. There are a few threads discussing this in the above mentioned forum, but I doubt you'd be able to add an in-dash unit w/TV and <not> replace the entire system.
Good luck and happy searching.
I got nothing on the lighting questions, sorry
I think as far as lighting goes, you are going to be safe as long as you keep the same wattage bulb. Sylvania and others make bulbs that put out more light for the same wattage, so you don't end up with the heat and other current problems you'd have if you increase the wattage. I replaced the high beams and driving lights with the Philips Vision Plus bulbs which are supposed to put out up to 50% more light for the same wattage. I'm not sure that I would say 50%, but they are definitely brighter than the stock.
Jeff
1999 Q45t
Jeff
1999 Q45t
QUOTE]Originally posted by Simmsled "]You use a low to high for amplifier signal integration... In the Bose system, that is what is required when you add an amplifier. It only works to receive the pre-amplified signal.
The Bose system uses the headunit as a pre-amp. The signal is then fed to each individual amplifier (there is 1 for each Bose speaker). The signal is the "low" part that everybody talks about. The "high" is not what you can hook up to a speaker, but it is actually a usable voltage level for aftermarket amps.
Bose "low" signal: around 350 millivolts
Useable signal for aftermarket amps: 1.5 to 6 volts
The low-high converter basically takes the 350 millivolts to 2.5 volts
NOW... the reason you cannot hook up aftermarket speakers to the Bose amps is because the impedance (or resistance measured in ohms) is around .25 ohms to 1 ohm. Aftermarket speakers offer a 4 ohm load, which is way too much resistance for the Bose amplifiers to produce a useable amount of power. What you were talking about with regards to low-high would mean that you would take the pre-amplified signal and use it as amplified signal. This cannot be done because of the low amount of voltage and the lack of a sufficient power supply (to put it VERY simply).
High-low converters are used only to interface the aftermarket headunit to the factory wiring. When this is done, the aftermarket headunit is only used as a pre-amp. It's power is reduced to meet the low voltage level required of the Bose amplifier. [It does not matter whether you have an aftermarket headunit with 20 watts per channel or 60 watts per channel.] So, if you are worried about the integration of an aftermarket headunit using the high/low adaptor... dont worry about it.
Hope this sheds some light on the subject.
[/QUOTE]
The Bose system uses the headunit as a pre-amp. The signal is then fed to each individual amplifier (there is 1 for each Bose speaker). The signal is the "low" part that everybody talks about. The "high" is not what you can hook up to a speaker, but it is actually a usable voltage level for aftermarket amps.
Bose "low" signal: around 350 millivolts
Useable signal for aftermarket amps: 1.5 to 6 volts
The low-high converter basically takes the 350 millivolts to 2.5 volts
NOW... the reason you cannot hook up aftermarket speakers to the Bose amps is because the impedance (or resistance measured in ohms) is around .25 ohms to 1 ohm. Aftermarket speakers offer a 4 ohm load, which is way too much resistance for the Bose amplifiers to produce a useable amount of power. What you were talking about with regards to low-high would mean that you would take the pre-amplified signal and use it as amplified signal. This cannot be done because of the low amount of voltage and the lack of a sufficient power supply (to put it VERY simply).
High-low converters are used only to interface the aftermarket headunit to the factory wiring. When this is done, the aftermarket headunit is only used as a pre-amp. It's power is reduced to meet the low voltage level required of the Bose amplifier. [It does not matter whether you have an aftermarket headunit with 20 watts per channel or 60 watts per channel.] So, if you are worried about the integration of an aftermarket headunit using the high/low adaptor... dont worry about it.
Hope this sheds some light on the subject.
[/QUOTE]
You have to replace all the speakers if you replace that head unit. Impedance is all out of whack.
BOSE BLOWS.
Instead of all the converting and adapting and wiring you will have to do to keep those halfass stock speakers, I strongly suggest picking up a set of Altec Lansing or Pioneer speakers. Sometimes, cheaper Pioneers outperform their much more expensive competition. Altec Lansing is best but next to impossible to find.
For the head unit... I once saw a picture of one by Eclipse much like this...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...48609
...in a J30 except it was perfectly flush in the dash and was a double DIN unit. Otherwise, go for any Nakamichi or Blaupunkt "Denver" series. Anything else is tasteless and doesnt blend in with the interior. Unless you want to impress dumb chicks.. then dancing lights and tiny buttons suited for leprechauns are great for that.
If youre going to replace the speakers OR the head unit, you end up having to gut it all. Might as well do it right.
-Jesda
BOSE BLOWS.
Instead of all the converting and adapting and wiring you will have to do to keep those halfass stock speakers, I strongly suggest picking up a set of Altec Lansing or Pioneer speakers. Sometimes, cheaper Pioneers outperform their much more expensive competition. Altec Lansing is best but next to impossible to find.
For the head unit... I once saw a picture of one by Eclipse much like this...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...48609
...in a J30 except it was perfectly flush in the dash and was a double DIN unit. Otherwise, go for any Nakamichi or Blaupunkt "Denver" series. Anything else is tasteless and doesnt blend in with the interior. Unless you want to impress dumb chicks.. then dancing lights and tiny buttons suited for leprechauns are great for that.
If youre going to replace the speakers OR the head unit, you end up having to gut it all. Might as well do it right.
-Jesda
The double din in-dash monitor i believe was the Eclipse 7501. Not worth the money, from what I've been told they had some issues with the laser - and you won't get one w/ warranty. I looked into them a while back.
Someone has one in a J on the cardomain website, if oyu want to see what it looks like.
Also if you're working on a budget, its real easy to just change out you HU first (thats what i did) - Jesda is right, the Bose speakers range is terrible, but if you want more functions than the stock Clarion unit, you can do it fr $50 maybe for the converter from crutchfield. Good luck
Someone has one in a J on the cardomain website, if oyu want to see what it looks like.
Also if you're working on a budget, its real easy to just change out you HU first (thats what i did) - Jesda is right, the Bose speakers range is terrible, but if you want more functions than the stock Clarion unit, you can do it fr $50 maybe for the converter from crutchfield. Good luck
Are you into cutting wires? Here you go!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...30424
" Description (revised)
This device is used to use an aftermarket deck with the existing Bose speakers. You can adjust each speaker manually for even better sound (you can make the rears louder then the fronts, or vice versa). Paid $65 for it thru Crutchfield last month, used it and decided i wanted to put in better speakers. It works well. Shipping should be around $5 depending on where it’s going and if it goes over, I’ll cover it. Payment due within 3 days of auction’s end. Checks and money orders accepted, checks must clear before item ships. Good luck. "
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...30424
" Description (revised)
This device is used to use an aftermarket deck with the existing Bose speakers. You can adjust each speaker manually for even better sound (you can make the rears louder then the fronts, or vice versa). Paid $65 for it thru Crutchfield last month, used it and decided i wanted to put in better speakers. It works well. Shipping should be around $5 depending on where it’s going and if it goes over, I’ll cover it. Payment due within 3 days of auction’s end. Checks and money orders accepted, checks must clear before item ships. Good luck. "
YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REPLACE THE SPEAKERS OR THE AMPS. go to this link
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/PERNISAH4N
buy that....i think another website sells it for less...and has a pricematch gaurantee where they will give you 110% off of the difference....this will make your life much easier....it works great too!
http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/PERNISAH4N
buy that....i think another website sells it for less...and has a pricematch gaurantee where they will give you 110% off of the difference....this will make your life much easier....it works great too!