Replacing the positive battery terminal end // 2008 Rogue

[lb543]

I had my 2008 Rogue in the dealer for maintenance in January, and one of the "Fail" items they identified during the inspection was "replace positive battery terminal end (Found battery cable/terminal excessively corroded)". The quoted cost for this repair was $1,065! That seems crazy to me, but maybe the repair is more involved than I'm thinking? I know there's a fusable link at the terminal, does that have to be replaced as well? I want to do the repair myself -- is it as simple as buying a replacement terminal end and swapping it out?

I've already replaced the control arms and the CV axles myself, saving $2k+, so I'm not particularly keen on paying $1k for the battery terminal if I can avoid it. Thanks for your help!

[mrsteve7]

I'm guessing that should be $10.65!
I see the cable end is replaceable itself, and at the few places I buy parts, is less than $10

[lb543]

Thanks for the follow up, glad to hear you think it's excessive as well! The price was quoted as $1,064.04, so that makes it less likely a typo in my opinion. The cynic in me thinks they buried it in the middle of $6k worth of recommended repairs hoping I'd greenlight it all without looking closely, but who knows.

I'm going to grab the terminal at the auto parts store and replace it. Still going to tell the wife I saved us $1k though :-)

[macgiver]

mac, to be honest your making assumptions about the price , and that it's SIMPLY a cable end , and doing so I gotta tell you , not trying to scare you - but the high current your dealing with can easily start engine fires.1 ) For one thing YES late model cars have MUCH MUCH more complicated cabling and fus. links etc. etc . ESPECIALLY on the POS. post side. 2) Corrosion happens and almost ALWAYS goes far & deep past the post terminal , hey up to 8 inches or more of wire. 3 ) That means a "proper & guaranteed " way to fix IS LIKE A COUPLE HUNDRED DOLLAR (very complicated pos. harness)FACTORY HARNESS $$ - that 4 ) may be more than 6 feet long AND connect in more than THREE PLACES . 5 ) Usually the routing in late model cars is OBSCENELY in & around ALL KINDS of COMPONENTS- MANY OF THEM NEED TO BE REMOVED !!
That $$1,100 price , yeah is Dealer STEALER markup - probably $ 600 -775 @ ind. shop. Question is - do you really want to start into this and finding a Quagmire out or when you buy (a complex & proper- "Sick" mess of cable) what you probably really need that solid/complete harness / not just a "splice job",at the end of THE most important wiring area on the car - which can instantly burn it down as quick as you turn that ign. key?? Shops are insured (gotta goto ones that are )
Go and try to put only a cable "End" , be prepared to deal with SOME or ALL ofthe above though, good luck.

[casperfun]

Might give you a few ideas.

https://drivinglife.net/nissan-altima-b ... placement/

[lb543]

Thanks for the reply mac. The dealer's work scope did specifically say it was for replacing the "positive battery terminal end". I doubt they'd give me free additional work without increasing the scope and price, but I could be wrong here. Also, honest question (not trying to be argumentative), how could simply replacing a cracking, corroded terminal end with a brand new one increase my chances of a fire? I mean if I half-assed the crimp or something, but I fail to see how I'd realistically be worse off after crimping on a new connector. I concede it might not completely fix the problem if, like you say, the corrosion is more extensive than just the terminal end, but a new connector more dangerous?

[macgiver]

mac, correct Ib543 , and I don't belive I specifically said that , and here I will tell you that it is highly technical ,as a licensed, Union electrician - one of those yes & no answers. Short of it - if cable IS cut back enough to be free of corrosion , fine , But IF there is enough corrosion left , then you will have what's called a high impedance lenghth ( in lay terms , cause of dc , high resistance) whereas that WILL heat excessively and is somewhat possible to "initiate-somehow " a fire . What I referred in previous post was the most frequent cause of a real direct and definite fire hazard - THE IMPROPER INSTALL usually by NON-TRAINED persons ( not to defame anybody) where easily , a complicated wiring install , that's connected into hundreds of Amps sourced can practically be explosive - upon the turn of the key
Back to the $10.00 notion , if that's the 'end' they're talking , the labor they would charge probably $60+ .
Basically the "corrosion going back up the cable" which does happen seemed to be the CLUE an end would probably NOT fix properly and we ALL have seen the dealer - coming back after ATTEMPTING the 'End' saying "YEAH YOU NEED THE WHOLE HARNESS ! " they GOT YOU NOW !!!!!!! That , I believe is REALLY what's going on here!

[lb543]

Ok, cool, thank you for the clarification. My dad happens to be a certified master electrician, so I may offer him a beer to swing by and "supervise" to make sure I don't burn the whole thing down in my driveway. If he says the whole thing needs to be replaced I'll reassess.

[mrsteve7]

On the harness side, this is a bolted connection and is not a crimp. I'd have no reservation in replacing this myself. Clean the bolt on the harness side with wire brush or use wire wheel on drill. Use dialectic grease/spray to coat bolt side and battery terminal side once the connection is made. For peace of mind, inspect connections on harness side beyond the end terminal for signs of other corrosion. If heavy resistance somewhere down the line, will symptomize as weak starter turnover as this will be the highest current-draw scenario.

[macgiver]

mac, right they have that "bolted , complex looking ends" , they on the other hand are'nt a piddly $10.65
Tis a bit of a 'mystery' then - just what that dealer's talki 'n . The KEY here is definately learning what the REAL problem was, ever was - IS ??? Especially REAL parts & labor WITH clarification of $$ 1065.00
"Guessing" not a solution - getting to the bottom of Dealer's urging this repair.

[lb543]

Thanks to you both. Do either of you have a service manual to confirm this is the correct part? #24340-7F003

It says compatible with 2009+, but I'm thinking 2008 is likely the same part.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Altima-Ma ... SwTuJYwch1

[mrsteve7]

Noticed in the eBay auction you can contact them (the seller) with your VIN to confirm fitment.

[macgiver]

mac, would be interesting Ib543 , if a photo of the corrosion is put up here , so people talki'n all different help for you
can SEE what that Dealer IS talki'n aboutt ??