Replacing rear main seal, any advice?

[CRyan]

Well guys, was under the car taking off the lower control arm and noticed a good bit of build up from oil and grime. Found out it was the rear main seal - So I think I'm going to replace it while I'm replacing the rack and pinion and lower control arm. . .

So question is - whats the time on a job like this? Is there anything I need to look out for? Any difficult parts during install?

Thanks for the help guys - P.S. this is on a 97 SE.CRyan

[gumby74]

Replacing the seal itself takes a handful of minutes. Getting TO the seal is a whole different animal.If you are manual, you may as well do the clutch while you are in there.Be careful when removing the seal itself so as not to gouge or scratch the surface on which it sits. Otherwise, you will have a small leak that never goes away.

[CRyan]

Ok, well if I am to replace the clutch, will I have to replace the pressure plate too? I figured I'd go ahead and replace the flywheel while I was in there, but I think I might be biting off more than I can chew. . .

[qat727]

You have to take the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel off to even get to the rear main seal. Usually new clutch kits come with a new pressure plate, so it just makes sense to replace both at the same time. As for the flywheel, if you want a lighter replacement one, you might as well do it while you're in there. Heck... if you're going to all that trouble, you might as well do the white bunny clutch swap.

Basically, it's a ***** and a half to get everything out to replace the rear main seal. That's why nearly every vehicle I've owned that had one leak didn't get fixed.

[CRyan]

Is it THAT major of a deal? Normally the car will leave about a quarter sized puddle every morning when I leave for work. . .

And whats the white bunny clutch swap? I would search - but I'd much rather go ahead and add info to this thread for anyone else who has a rear main seal problem.

[qat727]

As far as a major deal, leaving it isn't a major deal. It won't improve, and will eventually need to be replaced. I've seen them go for years without getting *really* bad. Then again, I've seen them crap out rather quickly.

I'd say get everything together to do the work, and when it gets warm again, go ahead and fix it if you've got the tools. One other thing I'd suggest is to get the OEM seal. It's enough of a job that the consensus of opinion of the mechanics I know is that it's worth the extra money to get an OEM seal. And yeah, replacing it is a bit of a major deal.

White Bunny clutch setup: zerothread?id=227129

[White Comet]

ahh i remember hearing about the white bunny swap. i say go for it . where are u getting ur rear main seal from. im replacing the transmission soon and i might as well do this while im in there

[CRyan]

. . .I work at Nissan. . . OE rear seal FTW. . .

[White Comet]

i figured as much, what the cost of that to the general public?

[CRyan]

15 bucks. . .I think I'm gonna get the clutch assembly also (clutch disc, pressure plate, and throw out) for $90

[White Comet]

not a bad plan, its always best to do everything while ur in there instead of ripping everything apart multiple time

[DougRoost]

It's no secret that the majority of the cost of a clutch job is labor, not parts. $90 is the cheapest I've seen an OEM clutch kit go for, so I have to wonder if that's employee price or street price.

Just curious why you plan to replace the flywheel. I've done many clutches in various cars and as long as they were replaced before they slipped too bad, the flywheel was either fine or just needed minor resurfacing by a machine shop. Only reason to replace them is if they are heat cracked, the starter ring teeth are damaged, or you want to go with a different flywheel (as in the white bunny upgrade or a lighter racing one for faster revs).

[White Comet]

im thinking $90 is the employee price since he works at a dealership. im going w/ a lightweight flywheel but ur right, most times it isnt necessary

[scottydog]

Just did my rear seal, but only because I was doing the clutch. Replacing the clutch is for most a full days job, with a few swear words shoving it back in. No question I would replace the clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing while you're in there. The rear main seal takes 10 minutes or so, piece of cake once you have it exposed.

Be sure and check the oil pan seal. You may want to redo that while you have it all exposed, as they tend to leak also.

[bigred240sx]

dam corey u reckon i can bring the s13 in put it on a lift to and do some work haha

[homeslicej2]

yeah unless your flywheel is damaged or you want a lighter one just get it turned. Should only be around $40. Also, replace the pilot bushing while you're in there.

[KLYPH]

You need to take the transmission out. even the flywheel and all that. Get some gasket maker. I used the black one. The aluminum back cover that holds the seal is the softest aluminum I have ever seen so be carefull when you are getting it off. You should clean all of the old gasket off and clean the surface where the rear cover meets the engine and the cover itself. I used denatured alcohol. Cleaned the part where the seal touches the crank with brake cleaner on a paper towel untill it was nice and shiny. The brake cleaner is real agressive tho so don't get it everywhere. Get the flywheel resurfaced, it cost me $40 at AAMCO but I know the owner a little and he said he normally charges $60 because it has a step. IDk if you should get a new clutch kit but you might want to replace throwout bearing if you don't. PUt oil on the rear seal when you put it in the cover. Also put some oil on the crank shaft when you put it on.

[White Comet]

yeah its so much easier to do everything at once. im replacing the transmission, clutch, flywheel, rear main seal, slave cylinder, and using t steel braided clutch line all at once

[JerodKing]

Wow 60 bucks to resurface a flywheel? I just called a used car dealer to see if they did it, they referred me to somewhere else, went, waited 10 minutes, and like 13 dollars later I was out the door.

But to the OP yes I also recommend swapping clutches if it is older, I just did the 5 speed swap this summer, and I would not want to do it all again soon (ESPECIALLY putting the transmission back in, that was the worst). I would also definately resurface your flywheel, your old clutch has it's own 'mark' on it.

[White Comet]

its not that hard to put the transmission back in but i guess it depends on ur set up and tools

[JerodKing]

I had alot of trouble getting it in past the pressure plate because the bell housing was hitting the underside of the car. I tried with the transmission turned 90 degrees and normal, though I don't remember which way it ended up going in. Maybe if I would have jacked the front of the engine up to tilt it down it would have been easier with better clearance. Either way I spent about 2 hours trying to get it in, probably take less time next time though.

[0wn3r]

Keeping the KA alive till you go SR?

Man, have fun with the seal...btw, I almost regret going SR. Turned out to be quite a hassle just to get a good damn motorset.

[White Comet]

I had alot of trouble getting it in past the pressure plate because the bell housing was hitting the underside of the car. I tried with the transmission turned 90 degrees and normal, though I don't remember which way it ended up going in. Maybe if I would have jacked the front of the engine up to tilt it down it would have been easier with better clearance. Either way I spent about 2 hours trying to get it in, probably take less time next time though.

wow, that really sucks, i have a pit and transmission jacks, and yeah i jack up the front of the motor to tilt and use the other one to guide the transmission down

[CRyan]

WELL, I think I've done something not so smart - I need your guys input on this. (CLIFF NOTES AT BOTTOM OF POST!!)

So, as most know I've been doin5g some work on my car while it is in the shop getting a rack and pinion. I've ordered a set of wheels (18" 7.5" wide with a 35mm offset on all four) and I've ordered a suspension set up (KYB AGX's with a german made spring. . .1.4" drop all the way around. . .)

Before I get to the big question - please someone reassure me that these wheels will clear the fenderwell with that kind of drop. . .Anyway.

So in all my cars, I've grown fond of running royal purple 15w40, and I decided to change out my oil. But theres one difference. Seeing as right now I will not have the time to replace the rear main seal, I added a "rear main seal repair oil" which took place of one quart of the royal purple.

Someone please tell me my car won't blow up when I crank it, or that it isn't bad for the car. And if this stuff somewhat works.

The seal isn't leaking TERRIBLY bad, but its noticeable. . .I dunno, I'm regretting now if I should have used that additive.

Cliff Notes -1. New wheels (18" 7.5" wide with 35mm offset) Will they fit with a 1.4in drop all the way around?2. Changed oil - used royal purple - substituted one quart with rear main seal repair - will this help or hurt the car?

Thanks guys - I'm just really nervous and in need of some kind of guidance/advice.

ThanksCRyan.

[CMG]

Well, I don't know if your engine will blow but putting in that additive was not too smart. Are you getting leaking from where the bellhousing connects to the engine? I believe that could also be the transmission leaking or the rear main.

[KLYPH]

It is a good idea to loosen your motor mounts and tilt the engine back to get the tranmission on. Actually thats the only way me and my dad could get it on. As far as oil additives, it looks like the person that owned the car before me put a stop leak in because around the rear main seal it was thick black oil, almost as thick as gear oil. nasty. But I have taken the oil pan off and the only thing I was worried about was oil sludge and my pan was so clean. I do believe you'r going to have to drain your oil to do the rear seal. You won't have to change the filter, but im no expert.

[White Comet]

.

Cliff Notes -1. New wheels (18" 7.5" wide with 35mm offset) Will they fit with a 1.4in drop all the way around?2. Changed oil - used royal purple - substituted one quart with rear main seal repair - will this help or hurt the car?

Thanks guys - I'm just really nervous and in need of some kind of guidance/advice.

ThanksCRyan.

1.they will clear but i think that offset might be kinda weak, dunno though im not a wheels expert. i have 17x7 +35 on the s13 and they are sunken like a battle ship2. never used rear main seal repair oil, whats the brand?

[CRyan]

bar's or bart's or something along those lines. ..

[White Comet]

hmmmm, yeah i have no idea on that one, good luck though

[DougRoost]

Those "stop leak" additives won't blow your engine. And they're not some thickening agent, either.

What they are is the same thing that's now being marketed by all the major oil companies in their High Mileage oils -- a seal conditioner. It's an additive that essentially tries to soften up and rejuvenate the rubber seals that tend to harden due to heat and time. So no worries.