replacing odds and ends

[z.Leinbach]

well, this morning at -9F trying to start the ol lady,the neg battery lead started to smoke a little and the wire casing had split, sooo question is, how much of a PTA is it to replace the leads to where they need to go. also i will be in the spring or summer maybe replace the engine harness and trans harness, so i can have my reverse lights back. along with the phase 2 injectors.

on another note ill also be replacing the clutch and rear main seal and other bits to the clutch. soo i have a NA, would consider honing out the bell to fit a tt flywheel and clutch, but is it worth it? i drive spirited and will be daily driving it still. so what clutch and flywheel package would be best, also will be upgrading the clutch fork and a solid shifter brace, and short throw. topped off by fresh headers, and maybe a cat delete. and new straight or x pipe. at 2.5" need all opinions other then sell it or pack it. lol

[DCaff300ZX]

The positive lead isn't so bad, the negative lead is more difficult and myself I'd hope to not be doing it at '9 degrees.

I thought the TT stock clutch felt great with my NA, did just as you said through Doug at Fairlady with my trans swap and the trans was awesome plus OEM feel. I did spend a little extra for a low mileage trans which surely helped, but anyway. You just have to grind the bellhousing to clear the starter I hear, plus or maybe using a shim instead to get clearance for starter?

[z.Leinbach]

I figured one of the 2 was going to be easy, and another a pta. just like everything else on these cars lol. also i dont know if this is related to the battery leads, buut i do have some flickering light flickering and then dimming when the noise pedal is activated. any insight as to what that could be?

also back to the clutch. how do the Nismo unsprung plate feel on this car for a daily stand point?

[itsa300zx]

well, this morning at -9F trying to start the ol lady,the neg battery lead started to smoke a little and the wire casing had split, sooo question is, how much of a PTA is it to replace the leads to where they need to go. also i will be in the spring or summer maybe replace the engine harness and trans harness, so i can have my reverse lights back. along with the phase 2 injectors.

on another note ill also be replacing the clutch and rear main seal and other bits to the clutch. soo i have a NA, would consider honing out the bell to fit a tt flywheel and clutch, but is it worth it? i drive spirited and will be daily driving it still. so what clutch and flywheel package would be best, also will be upgrading the clutch fork and a solid shifter brace, and short throw. topped off by fresh headers, and maybe a cat delete. and new straight or x pipe. at 2.5" need all opinions other then sell it or pack it. lol

What are your future plans for the engine? TT swap? nitrous the NA?

If not, no point on using a TT clutch and flywheel. Way over kill IMHO, the addition of rotational mass and costs.
Just got with a upgraded NA size clutch and fly.

The upgraded clutch fork is a great.

[z.Leinbach]

right now, i want to travel the road least traveled with these cars, attaining that point of a true GT car as they were designed. so future plans for the engine would be eventually, high comp rebuild, and some ported heads, bigger valves, and cams, and either bigger throttle bodies or, ITBS, also getting the car more rev happy, cause i have noticed on start ups, with the clutch pedal depressed the car revs up perfectly, but as soon as i let off the clutch the car rolls forward and revs drop 600rpms to normal hot idle..

[z.Leinbach]

well. i have switched it up to plus, without replacing the fuel filter or pcvs. and its back to running a top again and starting in the negitives. so with the regular i think it was just s*** gas. soo still have the plans for the new harnesses, but which harness has the oil pressure and knock sensor on the harness. is it the efi harness or the alt to trans harness? also how much of a pain to replace the harness is it?? i would assume pulling the plenum.

also with the AIV are there any specail things i would need to do when pulling that?

[DCaff300ZX]

OSM is your friend for the who, what, and where's and some handy tips and tests as well, also tt.net has a nice AIV delete how-to as does RoboZ....both are pretty straight forward as I remember although I have not gone ahead and removed AIV's...and you WILL fail emissions without them BTW.

[z.Leinbach]

luckily here, we dont have emissions testing here. so that im not entirely worried about here, and by the time we have it, age wise it will be out of the requirements for it. but my only wanting for removing the aiv is i get the glugging sound from the passenger side of the car, and i know its not the heater core cause i have heat enough to melt an ice cap. and no leaks cause the floor is dry.

[z.Leinbach]

well spoke with joel down at z1 very helpful with the questions i had. got new battery leads coming along with fresh idle air hoses and a new tps.. plus took the liberty ton get some HIDS from hidnation, I'll see how they do. next is full metal intake, pcv hoses and then new clutch, flywheel and clutch bits, headers, then full intake mods and injectors. and efi harness.

[DCaff300ZX]

Nice!

[z.Leinbach]

yeaa man, where can i get the big bore intake throttle bodies to match the intake mods. also with stock cams would the big bore tbs cause air flow problems being to much air flow and have it bounce off the valve and cause disruption.

also does anyone have experience with the nismo tension rod bushing? cause my car is starting to have slightly vague steering. also will probably need new tie rods. also what is a good brand for subframe bushings?

[z.Leinbach]

I've been researching for a new diff. is there a way to convert the original diff from the viscous lsd to a clutch pack diff???

[DCaff300ZX]

yeaa man, where can i get the big bore intake throttle bodies to match the intake mods. also with stock cams would the big bore tbs cause air flow problems being to much air flow and have it bounce off the valve and cause disruption.

also does anyone have experience with the nismo tension rod bushing? cause my car is starting to have slightly vague steering. also will probably need new tie rods. also what is a good brand for subframe bushings?

Pretty sure Z1 carries the 60mm tb's, and I haven't heard bad things about them when correctly installed with all of the correct pieces to make it work. The guy pictured in my build thread cruise, Z-Owned, has them on his NA and quite a few other mods and his car is VERY nice, and sounds as good as it runs. Pretty sure he's got OEM cams.
No experience with Nismo period, they really don't cater to the Z32 and I've never seen parts from them...personally I'd use Powertrix (and I do 100%) and not even think about anything else, period.

[z.Leinbach]

i havent seen any of the throttle bodies.

what's a good shock for a 1.4" front drop and 0.8" rear drop (TEIN springs)?? also im looking at the top speed front and rear upper camber arms, spc tension rods, topspeed traction rods and spc toe arms, for suspension replacements.

[z.Leinbach]

welp, got the new vac hoses for the idle air replaced and TPS and got it reading .451 volts at closed. but now when its in the 2k- 4k range it sounds like its firing oddly. or atleast sounding like it is, but pulls just like normal

[z.Leinbach]

well i take that back the car is back to normal. i think the car wasnt quite registering the new sensor till i turned it on an off a couple times.. but still have a wonky idle, probably still have a vac leak somewhere. i thought carbs were finiky. holy hell this car is somethin else

[z.Leinbach]

just had a magnaflow X- pipe and new knock off magna mufflers put on, car sounds so much better, and the drone is so much less than with the magna mufflers that were on it

right now, I'm getting odd oil pressure readings, at a warmed up idle i get decent readings, but when revs get up above 1400revs the readings drop to 0? when its cold revs have to be above 3k for it to read pressure? not sure if it's a pump problem, worn engine? or bad sensor and gauge? any insight would be great

[DCaff300ZX]

The oil pressure gauge is a well-known culprit for zero readings, my NA did it for awhile but then after the trans swap it was fine until it died.

[z.Leinbach]

alright, what would cure that? new sender unit? or just jerry wire in a new electric gauge??

[grayman_TT]

I don't think Z1 carries their larger throttle bodies anymore. CZP and I believe Specialty Z carry this one:

https://conceptzperformance.com/robz-bi ... _19290.php

[z.Leinbach]

welp, I'm getting new treads for my lady! some 19in TRD 7 spokers, just size are 235/35R19 i know the wheels are +48, i just need to make sure offset wise they will fit in the front with no rubs.

[z.Leinbach]

Well canceled the rim idea, went with some detailing products instead, and polished the lady up, but on this part adventure, its going to be a oem waterpump (finally after 4 duralast pumps), a unorthadox light weight pulley, some vac lines, a solid shifter bracket, and short shifter, but which short shifter has the least amount of distance?

[DCaff300ZX]

Be careful with short shifters, some are known for a bad fit and grinding/rattling sounds while driving. Not sure of the "best" versions and someone hopefully can help there, I myself find the OEM Z32 shifter throw to be very short already if in good shape (don't even have to move your arm!) and don't see why anyone wants less.

[itsa300zx]

I can help with a short shifter. Some of those copies don't fit very well.

I can make them upto 40% in throw reduction, but can be custom to what you need.

Here is mine for sale:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/182467151571?ssP ... 1555.l2649

send me a PM if interested in a custom OEM shifter.

Peter

[z.Leinbach]

I actually find the oem shift length extremely long, 5inch throw between gears? Shift times are rediculous and often end up being a granny shift.. Hence why i am aiming for a short throw. Quicken the times up. And I would be getting one from concept Z.

[z.Leinbach]

Also i am going to be replacing most the vacuum lines as i have found one in a spot i least expected, anyway what are the size of the small vac lines off of the ballance tube and all of the other small ones?

[DCaff300ZX]

I believe the vacuum is 5mm, hard to find in our 'Mercan-based auto parts shops so call around- I found a Schucks (now named something else) that was old-school enough to have that variety. Same with fuel lines, DO NOT buy it or their CRAPPY clamps from the auto parts shops and take the trouble to get it at Nissan, or best online with Z1 or CZP, etc. Don't try the 5/16 stuff for sure-vacuum lines and fuel, but it works fine for some other places where the larger internal diameter doesn't cause the fit issue you'll get with true vacuum and fuel connections.
And as for the shifter throw, if I center my hand over the shifter in a comfortable position, I can hit all shifts except 5th at times with a simple flick of the wrist and little/no arm movement...admittedly with a fully serviced shifter and transmission, but I also remember it being that way when I got it.
Definitely a personal feel thing though so I understand wanting things the way you like them.

[z.Leinbach]

Ahh ok, fair enough, my shifter if very blocky and squeaky, hence why im replacing both the shifter and bracket, same thing with the water pump, OE replacement, and a light weight pulley to replace my screwed up oem crank

[DCaff300ZX]

Sounds like you need the shifter rebuild kit, pretty inexpensive at our vendors but a REAL PITA to do. There are how-to's on that job as well, but I had it done with everything else on my TT and thereby avoided that hassle. Possibly one of the best repairs you can do, I know what you mean when they get sloppy and such as mine had become when the bronze bushing failed.
BTW, probably nothing wrong with the shifter itself and the rebuild will make it all 100% again, trust me.
Oh, and if/when you get the chance with trans out, DO do the chromoly pivot and upgraded shift fork and things will become even nicer...costs about $75-100 over normal cost to add these but WELL worth it.

[z.Leinbach]

Ohh i already added that to my clutch replacement cost, along with headers, test pipes and a bee r rev limiter