Replacing Motor Mounts, is it a DIY job?

[firstq]

Guys, how many of you seasoned DIYers have done this at home?

I have read that pehaps this is not an easy one and required bunch of screw jacks and perhaps additional help to get in there are replace the motor mounts...

I have done tensions rods, brakes, plenum removal and other things by myself - nothing heavy duty though - would I be able to get to it by myself or is better off for a shop.

I will be replacing the drive shaft next week - is there an overlap there?

Thanks for your input...

[DAEDALUS]

Sorry I can't help, but this is the one that gives me the most concern too. It's probably the hardest job I would ever consider doing myself. And the most dangerous. An engine lift would be great to have on this one. I don't relish the idea of lifting the engine while the car's on stands. It seems that access from the front would be helpful (if not downright necessary) for removal and placement of the mounts. I think the book cost is probably 8-10 hours. I don't see any labor overlap.

[firstq]

DAEDALUS: Thanks for your candid response.

I was told the labor is around 3-4 hours (if I remember it correctly). $85 times 2 for the two motor mounts and then the labor on top [$200 or so with 50/hour rate] - puts it around $375 or so for the total job [if taken to a shop].

[DAEDALUS]

That does sound reasonable for a shop, now that I think about it. Its just that I have no experience in lifting an engine so I don't know how much iterating is involved to get it right. I'm still not sure if the belts, compresssor and alternator need to come off, but I don't recall there being enough room otherwise to remove and position the right mount. Surely experienced techs have a knack (and the tools) for manipulating parts in difficult or tight places, but I usually do more labor (take more time) to avoid testing the limits of my skills and tools. I much prefer steady, consistent progress to occasional hang-ups. The hang-ups cause me too much misery and grief.

[Q45tech]

Whenever you do engine jobs [oil pan or mounts] you need an engine safety stand that secures the engine via chains to a series of heavy duty adjustable bars and transfers the load to the shock towers and frame. Then you can use a shop lift to raise the car up [to work under it] and then at least two screw jacks to raise each side as you remove the motor mounts.

[firstq]

Is this a complete overlap with a Oil Filter housing replacement job?

The reason I ask is because while doing the O/F housing I asked the guys to do the motor mounts and I was told the additional cost would only be the parts cost of the mounts - somehow due to miscommunication it was not done, but just wondering if the overlap is indeed 100%.

Thanks

[fxjackso]

My local mechanic (ex Nissan dealer) replaced the mounts in my 1991. It took him about three hours, jacking up first one side then the other.The booster hose for the brakes cracked during the operation. It was due anyway, but disconnect it first.

[Q45tech]

Four hours plus the parts is fair assuming there is another reason to put it on the lift or 4.5 as a standalone job.

Brake vacuum lines should be changed at 120k or 7 years as a safety measure we have seen 3 brake failures from brittle overheated leaky hoses.......the bad mounts let it twist and wear!