Well, after some period of no new issues with the 94 Q, I returned from vacation and noticed that it had a severe rough idle, as though it were "missing" on a cylinder or two.
Decided to take it to the dealer to have a Consult run. They did a power balance test and measured #1 at about 175 rpm with the others up in the 200s range. The technician said he measured the circuit open although the consult said no open circuits
I then came home and pulled the little black shield above the fan, which exposes # 1 and # 8 injectors, and measure both. 8 was in specifications, and #1 seems to be an open circuit.
My question is this: It appears that I might be able to replace this one myself by simply removing the two phillips head screws on either side, and (according to some other posts) pullling it straight out. (possibly with some serious effort invoved). What do you think??
If there is a chance that this would work instead of taking the fuel rails out, it seems to be worth a try. The dealer service rep told me that there was about 10 hours of labor involved in replacing this injector. !?! After looking at it, I can't believe that he had that estimate, despite the fact that we are in an affluent area of mechanically challenged people. I understand the process for depressurizing the fuel rails, having done it when I replaced the filter. Do I need anything other than the injector and a couple of O rings?? It appears from a photo on another post that the plastic electrical connector is integrated with the injector and not separate?? All wisdom or comment welcome.
Replacing injector #1 on 94Q45
I'm pretty sure you were measuring #s 1 and 2, not 8. I'd ask for a refund on that consult test. Not sure how it could miss an OC. And then don't ever go back if they want to charge you 10 hours to change #1. Remember to remove the gas cap. Even after depressurizing, there will still be fuel in the rail, which will pour down into the cylinder when you pull out the injector. I like to rotate the crank by hand after pulling an injector just to be certain there's no risk of hydrolock. Finish up the job with an oil change.
There is a post on this subject. Its a peice of cake -- however, it takes a fair amount of pull to get the old injector out. Also, get a good screw driver to remove the phillips on the retainer cap. One is at an angle that prevents a perfect seat of driver head. The screws are typically hard to break due to heating and cooling. Thus, its easy to strip the one out -- push down hard and turn carefully!
I used a power drill with a phillips head, put it in reverse and leaned into the philips head screw, popped the trigger and the screw loosened up with no problem of stripping.
Also soak the FI with some WD40 or Liquid Wrench and let it soak for awhile, it sure helps in removing the FI. I got hasty and chewed up one of my FI and had to replace it. They sure are fragile boogers.
Also soak the FI with some WD40 or Liquid Wrench and let it soak for awhile, it sure helps in removing the FI. I got hasty and chewed up one of my FI and had to replace it. They sure are fragile boogers.
Updated info
After ordering the injector from the friendly folks at Scottdale, I had my son give me the "Hey, guess what, .....the Check Engine Light went off, and it doesn't seem to be missing now." Sure enough.
However, just to satisfy some techinal curiosity, I remeasured the resistance (Daedelus was correct above, the two front most cylinders are 1 and 2, NOT 1 and 8 as I incorrectly stated).
The #1 injector now does not measure as an open circuit. It measures at 32 ohms. (#2 still measures at 11.2 ohms.) So, somehow, and open circuit has become healed!!!! albeit at a resistance 2.5x higher than the high end of specifications. (So the current and the magnetic field used to pull the injector open are about 1/3 of what its supposed to be.)
One wonders how this happens. In any case, I'm going to install the new one anyway. Thanks for the tips on the phillips screws holding the injector. I think I have a proper sized screwdriver so as not to chew up the slots.
Regards and thanks to all.
After ordering the injector from the friendly folks at Scottdale, I had my son give me the "Hey, guess what, .....the Check Engine Light went off, and it doesn't seem to be missing now." Sure enough.
However, just to satisfy some techinal curiosity, I remeasured the resistance (Daedelus was correct above, the two front most cylinders are 1 and 2, NOT 1 and 8 as I incorrectly stated).
The #1 injector now does not measure as an open circuit. It measures at 32 ohms. (#2 still measures at 11.2 ohms.) So, somehow, and open circuit has become healed!!!! albeit at a resistance 2.5x higher than the high end of specifications. (So the current and the magnetic field used to pull the injector open are about 1/3 of what its supposed to be.)
One wonders how this happens. In any case, I'm going to install the new one anyway. Thanks for the tips on the phillips screws holding the injector. I think I have a proper sized screwdriver so as not to chew up the slots.
Regards and thanks to all.