hiim pretty new to mechanics on cars and such.. and i wanted to take on a little "project" and fix up a dead 240..first is the headgasket.. and maybe if that works.. ill get a sr later or soemthing..anyways
what tools are there involved in replacing headgaskets?from what i searched.. if i remove the head, i remove the pistons and internals so i have to fitt those back?.. sorry if im wrong..
any information would be Greatly appreciated
replacing headgasket.. tools?
no, your not gonna go into the motors internals.
off the top of my head-
basically, you have to remove the intake up to the throttle body.
remove the fuel feed and return lines from the fuel rail.
drain the coolant, and remove the upper and lower coolant hoses. remove the coolant lines from the throttle body, and remove the radiator [for extra room to work].
disconnect the harness connections for the injectors, CAS, TPS, and distributor and any other sensors on the head.
remove the spark plug wires, and spark plugs.
remove the valve cover.
set the motor to TDC compression stroke, and remove the distributor cap. take a note of the position of the rotor. when you reassemble the motor, the distrib MUST be in the exact same position [that is why it is important that the motor is at TDC when you make this note.]
remove the distributor.
unbolt the exhaust manifold from the downpipe [lots of penetrating oil, and curse words...] only remove the exhaust manifold at this point if you have to [for example, if the downpipe bolts do not permit you to use the manifold in helping to get the head off the block]
remove the throttle cable.
remove the timing chain.
unbolt the head. [you must have an FSM for this. the head should be unbolted in a specific sequence, or you can promote warping/cracking]
make sure everything is disconnected/clear of the head and intake and exhaust manifolds.
use the intake and exhaust manifolds to give you leverage in breaking the head free of the block [it will be pretty stuck on].
once the head is off, you can then unbolt the intake and exhaust manifolds, if you want to change their gaskets. its just easier to remove the manifolds when the head is off the block, so you dont have to get to their bolts in akward positions.
the gasket comes off with brake cleaner, gasket remover, fine [220+ grit] sandpaper, and lots of effort. DO NOT GOUGE THE SURFACES!!
the head may need to be resurfaced, depending on the exact cause of the blown head gasket. [example- overheating causes warpage, so the head will need to be machined or replaced]
you most likely need to use a NEW set of head bolts.
installation is the reverse of removal.
NOTE- get a service manual!!!! this is just a rough guide to give you an idea of what to expect. certain items [like head bolts] MUST be installed in a specific pattern, with a specific number [usually 3] of torqueing steps.
off the top of my head-
basically, you have to remove the intake up to the throttle body.
remove the fuel feed and return lines from the fuel rail.
drain the coolant, and remove the upper and lower coolant hoses. remove the coolant lines from the throttle body, and remove the radiator [for extra room to work].
disconnect the harness connections for the injectors, CAS, TPS, and distributor and any other sensors on the head.
remove the spark plug wires, and spark plugs.
remove the valve cover.
set the motor to TDC compression stroke, and remove the distributor cap. take a note of the position of the rotor. when you reassemble the motor, the distrib MUST be in the exact same position [that is why it is important that the motor is at TDC when you make this note.]
remove the distributor.
unbolt the exhaust manifold from the downpipe [lots of penetrating oil, and curse words...] only remove the exhaust manifold at this point if you have to [for example, if the downpipe bolts do not permit you to use the manifold in helping to get the head off the block]
remove the throttle cable.
remove the timing chain.
unbolt the head. [you must have an FSM for this. the head should be unbolted in a specific sequence, or you can promote warping/cracking]
make sure everything is disconnected/clear of the head and intake and exhaust manifolds.
use the intake and exhaust manifolds to give you leverage in breaking the head free of the block [it will be pretty stuck on].
once the head is off, you can then unbolt the intake and exhaust manifolds, if you want to change their gaskets. its just easier to remove the manifolds when the head is off the block, so you dont have to get to their bolts in akward positions.
the gasket comes off with brake cleaner, gasket remover, fine [220+ grit] sandpaper, and lots of effort. DO NOT GOUGE THE SURFACES!!
the head may need to be resurfaced, depending on the exact cause of the blown head gasket. [example- overheating causes warpage, so the head will need to be machined or replaced]
you most likely need to use a NEW set of head bolts.
installation is the reverse of removal.
NOTE- get a service manual!!!! this is just a rough guide to give you an idea of what to expect. certain items [like head bolts] MUST be installed in a specific pattern, with a specific number [usually 3] of torqueing steps.
Re: (IvoryJ30t)
awesome thannkss
so.. basic tools is it?
if you take the timing chain off.. dont you have to re-do internals or something.. or is it just take off andput back on thing?
so.. basic tools is it?
if you take the timing chain off.. dont you have to re-do internals or something.. or is it just take off andput back on thing?
if you are going to replace the timing chain, you are going to need a big breaker bar and a pipe.
what you want to do is put the parking brake on, put the car in 5th gear, and break the crank nut loose [the nut holding the main crank pulley on]
if the car is auto, make sure the battery has some juice. put the breaker bar on the crank nut, and position the end of the bar on the ground, or on a piece of wood under the hood [braced on something solid] ON THE DRIVERS SIDE. get in the car and try to start the car. the force of the starter should break the nut loose. your not trying to start the car, just get the nut loose. if the car starts, shut it off immediately!!.
to answer your original question, basic hand tools will do, except for the stuff to remove the remains of the old head gasket.
keep in mind that to me, basic tools means a 200-300 piece socket, ratchet, ect set.
what you want to do is put the parking brake on, put the car in 5th gear, and break the crank nut loose [the nut holding the main crank pulley on]
if the car is auto, make sure the battery has some juice. put the breaker bar on the crank nut, and position the end of the bar on the ground, or on a piece of wood under the hood [braced on something solid] ON THE DRIVERS SIDE. get in the car and try to start the car. the force of the starter should break the nut loose. your not trying to start the car, just get the nut loose. if the car starts, shut it off immediately!!.
to answer your original question, basic hand tools will do, except for the stuff to remove the remains of the old head gasket.
keep in mind that to me, basic tools means a 200-300 piece socket, ratchet, ect set.
Re: (IvoryJ30t)
jeez~ you make it sound so easy basic tools icic~ i have a friend's dad who owns a shop so maybe i can go do it there or borrow some tools
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spider_slayer
- Posts: 1999
- Joined: Thu Sep 30, 2004 8:44 pm
- Car: S14 240SX
S13 240SX
Re: (IvoryJ30t)
it is gonna be alot of work. i'm pretty sure you don't have to remove the timing chain however, BUT make certian it does not drop into the case....this will cause many problems.....(correct me if i'm wrong guys) and for sure get the service manuel!
Re: (babowc)
No, you just have to make sure you put it on correctly to avoid a head full of bent valves.babowc wrote:awesome thannkssif you take the timing chain off.. dont you have to re-do internals or something.. or is it just take off andput back on thing?
It might be worthwhile to take your lower cover off, drop the oil pan and check the status of all of your timing components (tensioners, guides, etc.) and your oil pump.
And, DEFINITELY get a FSM. That will pay for itself a 10 times over, quite literally.