Replacing Head Gasket, need torque specs etc, help!

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airhunt2
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Hi everyone. I just bought a new head gasket set, with valve cover gasket and various other gaskets and seals for our '93 Vert. She's puffing some white smoke and leaking oil so it's time to seal things up properly. First question is this. We don't drive her anymore, but when we did, she never ran hot, and the temp needle never went above normal operating temp. Is it safe to say no damage was done to the block/head? What can I look for once I take the head off while replacing the gasket that would alert me to any damage? Second, I don't have a Haynes or Chiltons manual, so I'm in need of the various torque specs for the main studs and head studs for when I put everything back together. If anyone could help with this information, I'd greatly appreciate it. Also, any tips on doing this? Any special lubicrants or sealants I need to buy? Thanks in advance everyone.


94_240sx
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It's from page 17 in EM(Engine Mechanical) section. Download FSM and everything you need should be there.


airhunt2
Posts: 47
Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2007 7:21 pm
Car: 2000 Infiniti I30T
2009 Infiniti G37
2011 Infiniti M37X
2007 Mazdaspeed3
Location: Tulsa, OK

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Thanks a lot. What is FSM? Please explain where I need to look to find the info you are referring to. Thanks.

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Loki
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Factory Service Manual. Your new bible.

http://www.bumnah.com/fsms/

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240sx/

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DeXteR
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Indeed. Download the .pdf versions of the FSMs for the vert - 240sx Factory Service manual + convertible supplement.

If you're the kind of person who needs to have a hard copy in your hand, start searching places like ebay, half.com, amazon, etc. to find a used copy of the FSM.

To answer your other question, I don't THINK you'll have any issues with the head/block interface. You will absolutely need to take a Brillo (sp?) pad or copper wire brush or something to the head and block surfaces. You want something abrasive enough to remove the gasket material, but not to chew up the aluminum head's surface. Then, use a straight edge and feeler gauges to check for warpage on the surfaces - the specs are found in the FSM.

Once it's all cleaned off and you're not out of spec for the flatness on the head/block interface, you can replace your headgasket. As long as you're using a "felt" headgasket (OE, from the factory), you should be able to just put it on and torque her down.

On a side note and for future readers of this post: this WILL NOT suffice for a MLS (multi-layer steel) headgasket. You absolutely MUST have the head/block interface milled to get a perfect mating surface for MLS. This is the reason so many KA-T guys blow their Commetic headgaskets. Then they blame it on the gasket and not on their ignorance.

alex_roe
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i <3 biblesesp. when they're about cars

eatricez33
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Thanks ive been looking for the FSM!!!


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