So ive done a number of clutches. But not one has been a 4x4.
With that being said, Is there any tips/tricks to get it done with out taking everything out like the Chilton manual says?
My dad suggested taking out the drive-shafts and unbolting the necessary things and have a jack on the transmission and slid the t-case and transmission back to just put the clutch disc in. Im trying not to lower anything on the ground.
It might sound stupid but this is my first truck and wouldn't you know it, its another rusted hard body. so im trying to take out the least amount of snapping bolts ( ) as possible.
Replacing a 4x4 HB Clutch.
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Re: Replacing a 4x4 HB Clutch. (Ghost518)
If you plan on working on your truck go online and get a Nissan service manual, worth the money if you do most of the work on the truck yourself. Chilton and haynes manuals are a waste of money. many nissan real tech service manuals are on CD now and worth the investment if you are going to do this level of home repair.
Re: Replacing a 4x4 HB Clutch. (RT22)
Preparation:I purchased my clutch kit from ClutchMasters' Ebay store. It was in transit the same day I ordered, and arrived in less than 4 days, and my final price with shipping for the entire kit (Clutch cover, clutch disc, throwout bearing, pilot bushing, and alignment tool) was about $115. However, you will need several things, other than just the clutch kit. I purchased a 450lb capacity transmission jack from Harbor Freight for $90, and I would more than recommend this jack to anyone doing this installation. The transmission is extremely heavy, and very awkward with the added weight of the transfer case (if applicable). The transmission will not fit perfectly on this jack, but it wouldn't be feasible with a floor jack or bottle jack, much less, safe. You will need a 1/2" drive breaker bar or ratchet for the above transmission jack. I also purchased a tub of grease for input splines, throwout bearing surfaces, etc. In case you are planning on replacing the rear main seal, that will need to be obtained as well, however this how-to does not cover the replacement of the seal.
So, let's add that up:1) Clutch Kit (Clutch cover, clutch disc, throwout bearing, pilot bushing, and alignment tool, Figure P-1.1)2) Transmission jack. (Figure P-1.2)3) Grease.4) Rear main seal (if needed).5) Of course, your everyday home mechanic's tools. Also, try to find a piece of steel about the size of the I.D. of the pilot bushing (that little ring looking thing that comes with your clutch kit). This will be needed to hydraulically force the old pilot bushing out.6) New transmission/transfer case fluid. I ended up using 7 qts. of 85w90 GL-4. A little thick, but good in the Florida heat.
Figure P-1.1
Figure P-1.2
Disassembly:1) Park your D21 on flat, level, and preferably concrete ground. Put blocks in front and behind the rear tires to prevent the truck from rolling (Figure D-1.1). Put the truck in 1st gear and apply the e-brake. Make sure the engine is cool, you will be working around the hot exhaust areas of the engine, and it's never good when you burn yourself on hot exhaust plumbing.
Figure D-1.1
2) Begin the removal process by taking off the rubber shift boot by removing the 7, 10mm screws (Figure D-2.1). Remove the black rubber dust grommet (Figure D-2.2), revealing the transmission (Figure D-2.3). Don't remove the shifters yet. Note: I don't have any carpet to begin with, so removal or pulling back of the carpet may be necessary to remove the screws. Drain the transmission and transfer case, if you are planning on replacing the fluids.
Figure D-2.1
Figure D-2.2
Figure D-2.3
3) Lift the front of the truck high enough to allow the transmission to roll out from under the truck (Figure D-3.1). The transmission is about 15" at it's highest point (clutch bellhousing), so the truck needs to be about 20-25" from the frame to the ground to allow for room for not only the clutch, but also the transmission jack. Use jackstands on the frame in front of or under the body mounts just behind the front wheels. Removal of the front wheels is not necessary.
Figure D-3.1
4) Remove the driveshafts. Place the truck in gear and use care not to allow the driveshaft to turn the wheels which could cause the truck to fall. The front driveshaft is best removed putting the truck in 4H, removing the easiest bolts, then putting the truck back in 2H, turning the driveshaft by hand, and removing the other bolts (Figure D-4.1). When removing the rear driveshaft from the output shaft on the transmission, more than likely, the transmission will leak fluid. Be sure to plug, or, if you are planning on replacing the fluid anyways, place a drain pan under the tail of the transmission. A small amount of fluid will be inside the shaft on the end of the driveshaft, drain it as well (Figure D-4.2).
Figure D-4.1
Figure D-4.2
5) After the driveshafts are removed, the shifters can be removed. The 4wd shifter is removed by 3 bolts on the driver's side of the transmission. There are two that hold the shifter to a drilled out pivot, and one goes in the the lower shifter linkage (Figure D-5.1). The transmission shifter is removed by first making sure the shifter is in neutral, then by pulling back the dust boot (fastened by a zip-tie), removing the c-clip, and lifting up on the shifter assembly. Be careful not to get any dirt into the transmission, and be sure to plug the shifter hole with a plastic bag or rag (Figure D-5.2).
Figure D-5.1
Figure D-5.2
6) Start undoing the connectors on the side of the transmission. There are about 3 that must be removed to pull the harness back from the truck (Figure D-6.1). There are also 2 vent tubes, one on the transmission and one on the transfer case. Undo these from their respective housings.
Figure D-6.1
7) Unbolt the clutch fork cylinder and push it up above the torsion bar (Figure D-7.1). It doesn't weigh much, so there isn't a fear of breaking the hydraulic line, but it needs to stay out of the way and not get hung up. Zip tie it to the frame.
Figure D-7.1
8) Remove the torsion bars. To do this, first remove the torsion bar locknut, then the torsion bar adjuster bolt (Figure R-8.1) Then loosen the front torsion bar anchor mounting bolts, but do not remove (Figure D-8.2). Remove the c-clips on the torsion bar crossmember rear anchors, and then remove the rear anchors from the torsion bars. The torsion bars are most likely frozen to the front anchors, so it may be necessary to remove the front anchors from the LCAs and then pound the torsion bars out of the anchors. With the torsion bars removed, remove the crossmember by removing the 4 long bolts and pulling down.
Figure D-8.1
Figure D-8.2
9) Put blocks under the rear-most tail of the transmission, but not on the tail shaft dust cover. Use the stock jack to lift up on the transmission ever so slightly. Remove the 2 bolts holding the transmission housing to the crossmember, then remove the 2 bolts holding the crossmember to the frame and remove the crossmember from the vehicle (This is the front off the 2 crossmembers that must be removed in order to lower the transmission. The other is the torsion bar crossmember.)(Figure D-9.1). After removing the crossmember, take the transmission jack and place it under the transmission. You may need to remove the stock transfer case skid plate in order to center the jack. Note: The pictures show it too far to the front of the transmission (Figure D-9.2). Upon my removal, the transmission leaned towards the rear, so it needs to be further back on the transmission. It's going to fit funny, be sure to tighten the strap. Raise the transmission jack until the engine begins to move.
Figure D-9.1
Figure D-9.2
10) Remove the starter (Figure D-10.1).
Figure D-10.1
11) Remove all of the bolts that hold the engine to the transmission. There should be about 5. To those without a body lift, I can only say good luck on the top bolt. Extensions and elbow connectors may be needed.
12) Now slide the transmission towards the rear of the truck, slowly. If there is any binding at all, adjust the transmission jack to allow it to slide straight backward, exactly level with the input shaft on the transmission. Remove the transmission completely from the truck (Figure D-12.1).
Figure D-12.1
13) With the transmission removed, you are now looking at your clutch cover bolted to the back of your engine. Begin removal of the clutch cover by removing the 6, 12mm bolts from the cover. Remove the bolts in a criss-cross pattern, just so that the cover will come straight off. It doesn't really matter on removal. It's upon installation that it will be important. Catch the clutch disc!
14) Inspect the flywheel and the clutch disc. In my case, the flywheel did not require resurfacing (however, it should have been done regardless), because the rivets on the disc had not been contacting the flywheel. The sound that I was hearing was the throwout bearing freezing up and scraping on the clutch cover (Figure D-14.1). If I had run the clutch for longer, eventually the clutch would have stopped engaging when the clutch fingers had worn through, however, no damage was being done to the flywheel, and I was in fact fortunate with the condition of the clutch disc (Figure D-14.2). Clean the clutch mounting area, as well as the flywheel. Do not use petroleum-based solvents. Brake cleaner in a spray can works well. Be careful not to breathe the clutch dust, it may contain asbestos, and that stuff causes cancer.
Figure D-14.1
Figure D-14.2
15) First, push grease into the output shaft hole in the back of the engine, enough to leave about 3cm of room between the outside of the hole and the grease. Using that piece of steel that I mentioned earlier (For those of you not paying attention, find a piece of steel with an O.D. about equal to the I.D of the pilot bushing) and a mallet, hydraulically force the pilot bushing out (Figure D-15.1). What you will do, is push grease quickly behind the bushing, causing it to easily and quickly pop out. Install your new pilot bushing using a socket of the same size. Be careful to push it in evenly, and stop when the bushing is flush with the outside of the hole. Remove all of the grease, but leave a smudge on the bushing inner surface (Figure D-15.2).
Figure D-15.1
Figure D-15.2
16) Install your new clutch. This should be easy, but it is IMPERATIVE that the clutch disc lines up with the clutch cover and the engine output shaft. So, first, take the clutch disc and place it behind the cover in your hands. Now hang the assembly of both parts on the studs coming off the flywheel. Hand thread the 6 flywheel to pressure plate bolts, then take your alignment tool and push it through the cover, through the splines on the disc, and into the pilot bushing. Make sure everything lines up perfectly, then carefully tighten, in a criss-cross pattern and a little at a time, the 6, 12mm clutch cover mounting bolts. Once tightened securely, remove the alignment tool and apply a little grease to the splines on the clutch disc (Figure D-16.1).
Figure D-16.1
17) Now, remove the clutch fork and throwout bearing/hub assembly from the clutch bellhousing on the transmission. To disengage the fork from the hub assembly, use a screwdriver and unclip the small metal spring that is in the back of the fork, then slide the fork out. Destroying the factory dust boot may occur.
18) Separate the throwout bearing from the hub, and if necessary, use a die grinder and cut the bearing race off the hub. Install the new throwout bearing (Figure D-18.1), placing grease in the void inside the hub (Figure D-18.2). Reinstall the new hub/bearing assembly onto the transmission input shaft and install the clutch fork. Using pliers, reinstall the clip and be sure that it clicks into the grooves on the fork. If this is not done properly, the clutch fork may slide out, and if that happens, the transmission will have to be removed and clutch fork installed correctly. Ensure that the clutch will not slide out of the bellhousing.
Figure D-18.1
Figure D-18.2
Reinstallation:1) I found it necessary to remove the transfer case from the transmission. Without a doubt, the transfer case weighs much more than the transmission. It was easier, but still wasn't simple. If I had it to do over again on a concrete floor, I would have left it all together. However, if you do remove the case, unbolt the case from the transmission housing just behind the shifter hole. Be sure to add ample gasket maker to the mounting surface on reinstallation. Slide the transmission, carefully, into the hole for the transmission input shaft. You may have to tilt the transmission, etc. in order for the shaft to go in completely. Be careful! It is extremely heavy!! Make sure to strap down the transmission to the jack sufficiently. Be sure to line the transmission up with the mounting stud(s) on the metal engine gasket. Once flush with the engine, install and tighten all of the mounting bolts. Do NOT let the transmission off the jack while only supported by engine.
2) Install transmission crossmember. It may be necessary to move the transmission jack away from the crossmember mounting surface on the transmission, and if so, support the transmission at the rear, and carefully lower onto the support, then move the jack rearward and relift. Install crossmember and tighten both transmission to crossmember bolts, then all 4 crossmember to frame bolts. Note: If you removed the transmission in step 1, you may need to leave the transmission to crossmember nuts off in order to install lower 3 transfer case bolts, which would otherwise be blocked by the crossmember. If you removed the transfer case, reinstall it now. Remember gasket maker and install bolts criss cross. The transfer case is also heavy, do not get under it if possible. Use the transmission jack.
3) Install torsion bar crossmember, then rear anchors, torsion bars, and front anchors. Dab a little grease on the torsion bar splines. The front anchors may be difficult to tighten because of clearance between the LCA and front crossmember, use of a skinny open-end wrench may be necessary. Make sure to reinstall the c-clips into the rear anchors and make sure that the torsion bars enter their mounts sufficiently. If they are not inserted all the way into their mounts, they are much weaker against stripping out, and that's never good on the trail, or on the road for that matter. Preload the torsion bars just a bit, further adjustments will be made in step 8.
4) Reinstall the starter.
5) Reinstall the clutch fork operating cylinder.
6) Reinstall the wiring harness to the transmission and transfer case. The plugs should all be different in shape, so confusing these shouldn't be a problem.
7) Reinstall the driveshafts. Make sure the rear driveshaft yoke is clean to avoid crud entering the transfer case.
8) Lower the vehicle to the ground, and if necessary, lift it back up and crank the torsion bar bolts tighter. Final adjustments will be made after completion.
9) Make sure the drain plugs on the transmission and transfer case are tight, and remove the fill plugs. Add fluid into the shifter hole until the fluid level is even with the fill hole. Same goes for the transfer case, but fluid will be added through the fill hole. Tighten fill bolts.
10) Reinstall the shifters, as well as shift boot and shifter knobs.
Congratulations! You have changed the clutch in your Nissan Hardbody! You may need to bleed the clutch, and final adjustments and leveling to the torsion bars will need to be made, as well as an alignment will need to be performed by a professional alignment shop. I may have missed a few things, all this was done off the top of my head. Much like my wheel bearing/CV replacement how-to, this repair was performed in the "yard."
Modified by seang at 7:17 PM 10/6/2009
So, let's add that up:1) Clutch Kit (Clutch cover, clutch disc, throwout bearing, pilot bushing, and alignment tool, Figure P-1.1)2) Transmission jack. (Figure P-1.2)3) Grease.4) Rear main seal (if needed).5) Of course, your everyday home mechanic's tools. Also, try to find a piece of steel about the size of the I.D. of the pilot bushing (that little ring looking thing that comes with your clutch kit). This will be needed to hydraulically force the old pilot bushing out.6) New transmission/transfer case fluid. I ended up using 7 qts. of 85w90 GL-4. A little thick, but good in the Florida heat.
Figure P-1.1
Figure P-1.2
Disassembly:1) Park your D21 on flat, level, and preferably concrete ground. Put blocks in front and behind the rear tires to prevent the truck from rolling (Figure D-1.1). Put the truck in 1st gear and apply the e-brake. Make sure the engine is cool, you will be working around the hot exhaust areas of the engine, and it's never good when you burn yourself on hot exhaust plumbing.
Figure D-1.1
2) Begin the removal process by taking off the rubber shift boot by removing the 7, 10mm screws (Figure D-2.1). Remove the black rubber dust grommet (Figure D-2.2), revealing the transmission (Figure D-2.3). Don't remove the shifters yet. Note: I don't have any carpet to begin with, so removal or pulling back of the carpet may be necessary to remove the screws. Drain the transmission and transfer case, if you are planning on replacing the fluids.
Figure D-2.1
Figure D-2.2
Figure D-2.3
3) Lift the front of the truck high enough to allow the transmission to roll out from under the truck (Figure D-3.1). The transmission is about 15" at it's highest point (clutch bellhousing), so the truck needs to be about 20-25" from the frame to the ground to allow for room for not only the clutch, but also the transmission jack. Use jackstands on the frame in front of or under the body mounts just behind the front wheels. Removal of the front wheels is not necessary.
Figure D-3.1
4) Remove the driveshafts. Place the truck in gear and use care not to allow the driveshaft to turn the wheels which could cause the truck to fall. The front driveshaft is best removed putting the truck in 4H, removing the easiest bolts, then putting the truck back in 2H, turning the driveshaft by hand, and removing the other bolts (Figure D-4.1). When removing the rear driveshaft from the output shaft on the transmission, more than likely, the transmission will leak fluid. Be sure to plug, or, if you are planning on replacing the fluid anyways, place a drain pan under the tail of the transmission. A small amount of fluid will be inside the shaft on the end of the driveshaft, drain it as well (Figure D-4.2).
Figure D-4.1
Figure D-4.2
5) After the driveshafts are removed, the shifters can be removed. The 4wd shifter is removed by 3 bolts on the driver's side of the transmission. There are two that hold the shifter to a drilled out pivot, and one goes in the the lower shifter linkage (Figure D-5.1). The transmission shifter is removed by first making sure the shifter is in neutral, then by pulling back the dust boot (fastened by a zip-tie), removing the c-clip, and lifting up on the shifter assembly. Be careful not to get any dirt into the transmission, and be sure to plug the shifter hole with a plastic bag or rag (Figure D-5.2).
Figure D-5.1
Figure D-5.2
6) Start undoing the connectors on the side of the transmission. There are about 3 that must be removed to pull the harness back from the truck (Figure D-6.1). There are also 2 vent tubes, one on the transmission and one on the transfer case. Undo these from their respective housings.
Figure D-6.1
7) Unbolt the clutch fork cylinder and push it up above the torsion bar (Figure D-7.1). It doesn't weigh much, so there isn't a fear of breaking the hydraulic line, but it needs to stay out of the way and not get hung up. Zip tie it to the frame.
Figure D-7.1
8) Remove the torsion bars. To do this, first remove the torsion bar locknut, then the torsion bar adjuster bolt (Figure R-8.1) Then loosen the front torsion bar anchor mounting bolts, but do not remove (Figure D-8.2). Remove the c-clips on the torsion bar crossmember rear anchors, and then remove the rear anchors from the torsion bars. The torsion bars are most likely frozen to the front anchors, so it may be necessary to remove the front anchors from the LCAs and then pound the torsion bars out of the anchors. With the torsion bars removed, remove the crossmember by removing the 4 long bolts and pulling down.
Figure D-8.1
Figure D-8.2
9) Put blocks under the rear-most tail of the transmission, but not on the tail shaft dust cover. Use the stock jack to lift up on the transmission ever so slightly. Remove the 2 bolts holding the transmission housing to the crossmember, then remove the 2 bolts holding the crossmember to the frame and remove the crossmember from the vehicle (This is the front off the 2 crossmembers that must be removed in order to lower the transmission. The other is the torsion bar crossmember.)(Figure D-9.1). After removing the crossmember, take the transmission jack and place it under the transmission. You may need to remove the stock transfer case skid plate in order to center the jack. Note: The pictures show it too far to the front of the transmission (Figure D-9.2). Upon my removal, the transmission leaned towards the rear, so it needs to be further back on the transmission. It's going to fit funny, be sure to tighten the strap. Raise the transmission jack until the engine begins to move.
Figure D-9.1
Figure D-9.2
10) Remove the starter (Figure D-10.1).
Figure D-10.1
11) Remove all of the bolts that hold the engine to the transmission. There should be about 5. To those without a body lift, I can only say good luck on the top bolt. Extensions and elbow connectors may be needed.
12) Now slide the transmission towards the rear of the truck, slowly. If there is any binding at all, adjust the transmission jack to allow it to slide straight backward, exactly level with the input shaft on the transmission. Remove the transmission completely from the truck (Figure D-12.1).
Figure D-12.1
13) With the transmission removed, you are now looking at your clutch cover bolted to the back of your engine. Begin removal of the clutch cover by removing the 6, 12mm bolts from the cover. Remove the bolts in a criss-cross pattern, just so that the cover will come straight off. It doesn't really matter on removal. It's upon installation that it will be important. Catch the clutch disc!
14) Inspect the flywheel and the clutch disc. In my case, the flywheel did not require resurfacing (however, it should have been done regardless), because the rivets on the disc had not been contacting the flywheel. The sound that I was hearing was the throwout bearing freezing up and scraping on the clutch cover (Figure D-14.1). If I had run the clutch for longer, eventually the clutch would have stopped engaging when the clutch fingers had worn through, however, no damage was being done to the flywheel, and I was in fact fortunate with the condition of the clutch disc (Figure D-14.2). Clean the clutch mounting area, as well as the flywheel. Do not use petroleum-based solvents. Brake cleaner in a spray can works well. Be careful not to breathe the clutch dust, it may contain asbestos, and that stuff causes cancer.
Figure D-14.1
Figure D-14.2
15) First, push grease into the output shaft hole in the back of the engine, enough to leave about 3cm of room between the outside of the hole and the grease. Using that piece of steel that I mentioned earlier (For those of you not paying attention, find a piece of steel with an O.D. about equal to the I.D of the pilot bushing) and a mallet, hydraulically force the pilot bushing out (Figure D-15.1). What you will do, is push grease quickly behind the bushing, causing it to easily and quickly pop out. Install your new pilot bushing using a socket of the same size. Be careful to push it in evenly, and stop when the bushing is flush with the outside of the hole. Remove all of the grease, but leave a smudge on the bushing inner surface (Figure D-15.2).
Figure D-15.1
Figure D-15.2
16) Install your new clutch. This should be easy, but it is IMPERATIVE that the clutch disc lines up with the clutch cover and the engine output shaft. So, first, take the clutch disc and place it behind the cover in your hands. Now hang the assembly of both parts on the studs coming off the flywheel. Hand thread the 6 flywheel to pressure plate bolts, then take your alignment tool and push it through the cover, through the splines on the disc, and into the pilot bushing. Make sure everything lines up perfectly, then carefully tighten, in a criss-cross pattern and a little at a time, the 6, 12mm clutch cover mounting bolts. Once tightened securely, remove the alignment tool and apply a little grease to the splines on the clutch disc (Figure D-16.1).
Figure D-16.1
17) Now, remove the clutch fork and throwout bearing/hub assembly from the clutch bellhousing on the transmission. To disengage the fork from the hub assembly, use a screwdriver and unclip the small metal spring that is in the back of the fork, then slide the fork out. Destroying the factory dust boot may occur.
18) Separate the throwout bearing from the hub, and if necessary, use a die grinder and cut the bearing race off the hub. Install the new throwout bearing (Figure D-18.1), placing grease in the void inside the hub (Figure D-18.2). Reinstall the new hub/bearing assembly onto the transmission input shaft and install the clutch fork. Using pliers, reinstall the clip and be sure that it clicks into the grooves on the fork. If this is not done properly, the clutch fork may slide out, and if that happens, the transmission will have to be removed and clutch fork installed correctly. Ensure that the clutch will not slide out of the bellhousing.
Figure D-18.1
Figure D-18.2
Reinstallation:1) I found it necessary to remove the transfer case from the transmission. Without a doubt, the transfer case weighs much more than the transmission. It was easier, but still wasn't simple. If I had it to do over again on a concrete floor, I would have left it all together. However, if you do remove the case, unbolt the case from the transmission housing just behind the shifter hole. Be sure to add ample gasket maker to the mounting surface on reinstallation. Slide the transmission, carefully, into the hole for the transmission input shaft. You may have to tilt the transmission, etc. in order for the shaft to go in completely. Be careful! It is extremely heavy!! Make sure to strap down the transmission to the jack sufficiently. Be sure to line the transmission up with the mounting stud(s) on the metal engine gasket. Once flush with the engine, install and tighten all of the mounting bolts. Do NOT let the transmission off the jack while only supported by engine.
2) Install transmission crossmember. It may be necessary to move the transmission jack away from the crossmember mounting surface on the transmission, and if so, support the transmission at the rear, and carefully lower onto the support, then move the jack rearward and relift. Install crossmember and tighten both transmission to crossmember bolts, then all 4 crossmember to frame bolts. Note: If you removed the transmission in step 1, you may need to leave the transmission to crossmember nuts off in order to install lower 3 transfer case bolts, which would otherwise be blocked by the crossmember. If you removed the transfer case, reinstall it now. Remember gasket maker and install bolts criss cross. The transfer case is also heavy, do not get under it if possible. Use the transmission jack.
3) Install torsion bar crossmember, then rear anchors, torsion bars, and front anchors. Dab a little grease on the torsion bar splines. The front anchors may be difficult to tighten because of clearance between the LCA and front crossmember, use of a skinny open-end wrench may be necessary. Make sure to reinstall the c-clips into the rear anchors and make sure that the torsion bars enter their mounts sufficiently. If they are not inserted all the way into their mounts, they are much weaker against stripping out, and that's never good on the trail, or on the road for that matter. Preload the torsion bars just a bit, further adjustments will be made in step 8.
4) Reinstall the starter.
5) Reinstall the clutch fork operating cylinder.
6) Reinstall the wiring harness to the transmission and transfer case. The plugs should all be different in shape, so confusing these shouldn't be a problem.
7) Reinstall the driveshafts. Make sure the rear driveshaft yoke is clean to avoid crud entering the transfer case.
8) Lower the vehicle to the ground, and if necessary, lift it back up and crank the torsion bar bolts tighter. Final adjustments will be made after completion.
9) Make sure the drain plugs on the transmission and transfer case are tight, and remove the fill plugs. Add fluid into the shifter hole until the fluid level is even with the fill hole. Same goes for the transfer case, but fluid will be added through the fill hole. Tighten fill bolts.
10) Reinstall the shifters, as well as shift boot and shifter knobs.
Congratulations! You have changed the clutch in your Nissan Hardbody! You may need to bleed the clutch, and final adjustments and leveling to the torsion bars will need to be made, as well as an alignment will need to be performed by a professional alignment shop. I may have missed a few things, all this was done off the top of my head. Much like my wheel bearing/CV replacement how-to, this repair was performed in the "yard."
Modified by seang at 7:17 PM 10/6/2009
Re: Replacing a 4x4 HB Clutch. (seang)
^^This is a good read, and I wold have simply linked you to the site so you could see the pics, too, but I was reprimanded the other day for cross linking, so I had to copy/paste it. The main thing here IMO is the transmission jack. A falling 4x4 transmission/t-case could crush your arm, or maybe even your melon.
-
Hooked on 240
- Posts: 863
- Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2007 10:24 pm
- Location: Albany NY
- Contact:
Re: Replacing a 4x4 HB Clutch. (seang)
WOW thanks alot. You can send the link to my email @ [email protected] if you could. Pictures sometimes are a thousand words.
Re: Replacing a 4x4 HB Clutch. (Ghost518)
Great written info. I would have loved to see the photos. I go on the volvo forum and they don't have concerns about linking information that helps its members. What are the rules here?
Re: Replacing a 4x4 HB Clutch.
Are the pics for this 4x4 HB clutch replacement still up somewhere? If so, can someone please send me the link?