Replaced timing chain, car runs nice..... at 30 Degrees BTDC

[BaliLover]

Like the title says, I just replaced the timing chains/gears/tensioners/etc on my 92 240 KA24DE and it doesn't run right at 20 degrees.

I had a hard time with the timing chain because someone had been there before, and neither the idler gear on the car, or the one in my kit had any of the mating dots, and the upper chain on the car had no mating marks. I messed up and pulled the distributor before I lined everything up though.

I set piston # 1 at TDC by turning the crank until it was on the 2nd mark from the left, the piece of welding rod I had in # 1 hole came all the way to the top, and the cams 1st lobes were facing the outside of the head. Everything I read shows this to be #1 TDC compression stroke.

I pulled the chain and replaced everything, relying on the crank and camshafts for alignement, since the idler gear had no mating marks. I have the silver links on the new chain on each of the camgear dots, there are 14 pins between them. What I've noticed is that the silver links do NOT always line up with the dots as the cams make revolutions. I can turn the crank until it is at TDC (2nd mark from left) and the links aren't always on the dots.... It seems to take alot of turning of the crank to get them to line up, I'm guessing at least 6 full revolutions maybe more.

With the crank pulley at TDC, and the camshafts at TDC Compression stroke (lobes facing away from each other, silver links on the dots, Intake dot at around 11 O'clock, Exhaust at around 2 o'clock) I set the distributor to cyl. 1 (I assume this is done by aligning the dot on the shaft of the dist with the notch in it) and insert the dist. When I insert the dist, it automatically turns.

The car wouldn't start, just cranked alot. I took the bolts out of the dist and turned it to the extremes. Still wouldn't start. I eventually just started turning the rotor back a little at a time until I was able to get it to start.

It finally started, and I timed it to 20 BTDC and it idled fine. BUT, when I go to leave the line, it bogs bad before taking off nice. I advanced the timing to 30 degrees and it has no real bog and hauls pretty good in the upper RPMS.

I have to mention that when I was doing the timing chain, I took the time to remove the PAIR stuff, EGR stuff, Charcoal canister, etc. I left all of the idle control stuff under the manifold, PCV valve/hoses, Swirl control solnoid and valve, etc. I redid the vacuum lines so there are no leaks in the system, everything that needs to be capped off is, and most stuff has been removed.

The car seems to run fine, a bit lacking on the lowend but pulls nice in the mid-upper RPM range. I'm used to a 5 speed SR, and this is an Auto KA so I'm not sure exactly how doggy it is normally since I never really drove it before doing the timing chain.

Did something I remove cause it to run poorly at 20 BTDC?

[tryiian]

sounds to me like you just missed a spot, some itty bitty tiny error with the vacuum setup or emissions mess (egr would be where iLook first) gone wrong. bump for an interesting thread because i`m halfway through a very similar situation after doing a headgasket/oilpan gasket and intalling a 248 cam on the intake side. I noticed all the things he`s mentioned, except iHaven`t got the radiator on so iOnly had the car running for a few seconds to see if all that hard timing work paid off.

[xsblacksx]

i think the removal of all of those emissions crap is seriouslydetrimental to the engine's overall performance and longevity

[struckinc]

i disagree about the removal of the emissions being detrimental...took my friends off about 2 years ago when we did the engine build and havent had any problems yet..if anything it would be better for the engine because you dont have dirty exhaust coming back into the intake..but back to topic...once you get the upper chain on with the mating links lined up..it is very difficult to get them to be in the same spot ever again...not designed to...but as long as it is all timed correctly BEFORE you spin it over the first time you should be ok...i agree with it being a vacuum problem and not a timing issue

[TegConvert]

I am not saying anyone should do this but removing the emmsisions stuff would probably be the best thing you could do for your car,but maybe not the best thing for the enviorment. 8-)_

In a nutshell, that emissions stuff basicly makes your 2.4 litter behave like a 2.0, that may be an extreme guesstimation but thats basicly whats happening.Think about it, enert gases is reciculated back into the intake tract,enert gases are ..well enert and cannot combust again so their presence in the cylinder has just taken up space that could have been filled with fresh air/fuel mixture.

guess thats a little off topic srry. 30 degrees advance is a lot and over advancing your engine could be just as bad as over retarding it.

[redheadedguy]

I'm glad someone else posted this. I had the same thoughts about my car. I have a 89 with a 95 motor in it. I also have none of the EGR etc. on anymore. I also couldn't get it to run until 20 degrees BTDC, I'm at around 28-29 now and I've been thinking about whether or not I'm too far advanced. I think we're ok. There's no pinging so I dunno, more opinions the better I suppose.

[wa-chiss]

the egr valve is NOT an emissions device. It cools down the combustion camber. Take it off the car runs hotter. How much hotter is the question. Your "dummy" gauge will probably not show a difference. It helps with detonation and preignition.

Even though, I would still remove mine and just run higher octane.

[guyaverage]

EGR not an emission control device??

Holy crap who told you this? The EGR was one of the first emission devices ever used, starting back in the 70's. The lower combustion temperature is causes is what is carmakers use to reduce NOx levels. Disconnect or remove your EGR and your NOx percentage will skyrocket. Trying going through a emission check without it. You'll fail, miserably. Not only that the engine will be more prone to part-throttle detonation. Not using it wont cause your car to overheat if your cooling system is in reasonable condition. If your EGR valve is gunked up and stucked even slightly open you'll notice hesitation and/or crappy idle. Other than that its about the most benign emission control on the engine. If you guys removing it think you are going to get big power gains, you wont. Its not even active at full throttle. It will clear up some engine bay clutter and if it was gunked up you may notice a smoother idle, but freeing up any real horsepower, sorry folks. Not trying to a sexual intellectual ( or an eff'ing knowitall, if you prefer ) here, but some of you guys need to do some research.

[240sxmech]

WOW that guy wa-chiss sounds like a smart guy i think ill never let him even look at my car.