it done fairly quick. I do have some random photos and such, but the procedure for what i did isnt to hard.
Parts:
4x4parts Front LCA Bushings
MOOG Front Swaybar Links
MOOG Front Swaybar Bushings
MOOG Rear Swaybar bushings
(Rear swaybar links seemed fine so they were not replaced yet)
Beck Arnly CV Boots
KYB Strut Boots
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I also did other things but these were about a month previous:
MOOG Tie-Rods
Front LCA Balljoints
Airlift 1000 in rear
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Rest of suspension if anyone is curious consists of:
KYB GR-2 Struts
KYB Gas-a-just Shocks
4x4parts 2" Lowering Coils
Jackson Sports "Missing Link" aka lower control arm brace
The only thing stock left in my suspension is the rear bushings and swaybar links.
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The job is fairly simple (or maybe its me as i've taken this apart a lot of times), also when i did my lowering coils and kyb
suspension 2 years ago, my strut boots were in okay shape but i forgot to order some, they were simple to replace for me, reason
being i do not need to compress my front springs.
I took off the control arms and had the bushings pressed in, $27.50 per control arm so i got a pretty good deal on that.
Everything else is basically straight forward, a floorjack helps to put under the rotor to adjust height and move it around, i
only have one so when i go to do the other side i would put a small box strong enough to support it under it etc.
Also small boxes help to put under the control arm mount points when you are disassembling it and reassmbling it.
Another thing to note when putting everything back together, make sure you bolt in the LCA to the balljoint first before inserting
the cv axle into the hub, other wise you wont be able to reattach it.
If you get the beck arnly cv boot kit, (i think its the best one made for our car as a replacement), do not use the circular rings
they provide (you will see why if you compare it to the stock one, they are twice as thick and you wont be able to slide the cv
shaft over it) so you need to reuse the old ones.
While doing all this, you may want to repack your bearing grease, mine are still fine so i did not.
When you have it all apart, also CHECK BOTH SPOTS in the wheel wells for the rust spots about the big recall. My passenger side
was fine so i just took a drill with a steel brush on to it, and then spray painted it black a couple coats. My drivers side
although upon looking seemed like a little rust, i picked away at it with a flat-head it and it was about 3x3 inches in diameter
with rust also hiding under the black paint, it was still sturdy as i took a flathead with a hammer to it to make sure it wouldnt
punch through anywhere, then i sanded it down real good with the steel brush and put a couple coats here as well. Also make sure
you take off the 2 10mm bolts to where the abs cable holder is mounted as some of it is behind there also.
Here is pictures i have from the job, i dont have any pics of the bushing locations etc, but they are straightforward to fine, and
it is a plate with 4 bolts that holds it in place, to keep it simple (common sense), undo one side replace bushing, undo the other
and replace that versus taking both off and having to handle it back into place.
Rust Spot before sanded and painted
Everything off
Where the boxes come in handy
New bushings pressed in
Questions/Comments/Etc
