I was hoping that someone could help me out. I spent a few hours on the search and could not find any post on this particular topic. I just recently replaced the battery in my 2007 M35X and now I am having the following problems:

- Gauge cluster is not working at all (engine temp, RPM, Speedometer, gas)
- Turn signal indicator not working in the car (signal light works when engaged outside car)

Everything else is working fine. I had all the fuses checked and all are working properly. I am hoping someone can give me some insight.

Much appreciated,

LuDawg

I'm not sure other than fuses possibly going out on you, check under the hood fuses and your inside fuse box also... I've always heard of our cars giving people crazy issues after a battery change so I took mine to the dealership!! It was not very expensive and they prorated a little into my new battery including labor it was about $75!! Considering our cars just have so many electronics that's the best route to take!!

Took mine into Sears. They hooked the car up to an alternate power source while they changed out the battery. I would think most auto shops that sell batteries would have the same. It took a lot to replace the battery removing all kinds of panels; a pain in the derriere...

Thanks for the responses. I was thinking that it might be worth replacing all the fuses since there is not too many and are pretty cheap. I figure I could rule that out before I decide to take to the dealership. I was just hoping that someone out there had the same issue I have and how they got it resolved. I will post a follow up once I replace the fuses over the weekend. Thanks!

Question: Can anyone pinpoint which fuse is to the gauge cluster? My best guest is the one inside the car labeled "Meters" but I could be wrong.

From my little experience with fuses on the M, it takes 5 members from CSI to find all the fuses. There are THREE different locations including one next the battery. Having said that, I blew fuses changing interior bulbs in the dome light. Thankfully, somebody else had that trouble and turns out there are three red fuses (10amps each) along the bottom row of the cluster next to the park brake on the driver side. My cluster, mirrors, seats, and trunk lamps were all out and after replaceing these three they all came back online. I would try that first.

Schematics show a few places to check two power fuses specifically to the cluster. 21 is constant + power (10a fuse) and 14 is ACC controlled power (10a fuse). Just in case if it's your Unified Meter Circuit that is Fuse 12 ACC controlled power (10a fuse), Fuse 19 constant + power (10a fuse), and Fuse 6 ACC Controlled power (10a fuse). Your clock runs off Fuse 19 (10a fuse). Your mirror and compass run off 19 and 12 (both 10a fuses).

Hope that helps.

I replaced all the fuses in the location by the parking break with no luck :/

Msvara - Where are you pulling the numbers from? (21,14, 12,19, and 6?)

Larz - Where is the 3rd location? I thought there were only 2.

These numbers are shown on the alldata schematics diagrams. The fuses should be labeled as these numbers. Did you check the fuse box in the engine?

Fuse 21 is in Junction Box (Inside the car by drivers side)
Fuse 14 is in Junction Box and is powered by the Power Distribution Unit
Fuse 12 is in Junction Box but is powered by the Power Distribution Unit
Fuse 19 is in Junction Box and is powered by Fuse 38 in the Fuse-able link block (Engine Bay)
Fuse 6 is in Junction Box and is powered by the Accessory Relay which is also found within the J.B. which is powered by the Power Distribution Unit.

Check all of these fuses if all are ok then check the Accessory Relay for continuity.

Here are some images for you to review for locations



Just to update you the relay is on the rear of the J/B fuse box which you see so you may have to remove some screws to get at that accessory relay.

Having same problem with my 06 M35. Found this http://www.justanswer.com/nissan-infini ... panel.html. This guy says to use a test light to make sure these fuses are getting power. Is a test light the same as a non-contact voltage meter? Can you check if the fuses are getting power with a regular multimeter? If so, how?

In addition to my gauge cluster not working, I can't get my car out of park now either.

On a 2006 M35 there are 3 fuse boxes. One inside on drivers side by parking brake, one in front of the battery and one behind the battery. Have to remove all plastic stuff right up to the windshield to get to the one behind the battery. Don't know if that's the same for 07.

Set the multimeter at dc 1-20v and keep the black wire touching the chassis while you probe the fuses with the red lead. Some fuses are post ACC on and some are pre. Having the schematics would help here.

msvara wrote:Set the multimeter at dc 1-20v and keep the black wire touching the chassis while you probe the fuses with the red lead. Some fuses are post ACC on and some are pre. Having the schematics would help here.

Thanks for your help. What does post and pre ACC mean?

Having the car on vs off. Some fuses receive power regardless while others only when the car is on. Best to test while the car is on.

My multi-meter wasn't working right. A fresh set of batteries in my meter and I found a bad fuse - #14 Meter. Everything came on except the radiator fans. Tapped on the fan relay with the back end of a screwdriver and the fans kicked on. Unbelievable. I'm just happy it's all working again.

Same damn issue just happen to me after tryna replace the dome light with LEDs. I tried switching that 14 meter fuse azeiler mentioned but nothin. If it is a fuse will it continue to blow cause of these leds?

manolo87 wrote:Same damn issue just happen to me after tryna replace the dome light with LEDs. I tried switching that 14 meter fuse azeiler mentioned but nothin. If it is a fuse will it continue to blow cause of these leds?

Are you certain the fuse is blown? Hmmm ... what happens if you temporarily put the original dome bulb back? Does it work then? If so, it isn't the fuse. (BTW, what is a "14 meter" fuse? )

Also, might be that the LED is dead (not likely, but possible) - I'd try it temporarily with another power source (like a 9V battery in series with a current limiting resistor), just to check it out.

If the fuse is blown and keeps blowing, maybe the LED is shorted? If so, checking with an external battery ought to determine that too ...

A stretch: I seriously doubt that the car's electronics measure current and disconnect the dome light circuit if the current draw changes (up or down). This is generally too small a power draw to be an issue in any way, I'd think.

Z

Hi new to the forum. This is my first post. I have a 2006 M35 that I bought new in 05 and it has 207327 miles on it. Recently had the battery replaced by a local garage and now having some electrical problems. Wondering if you can help; 1) each time I start the car the AC has to be turned on manually, 2) the analog clock setting function and time no longer working and 3) the HoneLink is not functioning. This has been the most dependable car I have ever owned with no issues at all. Any thoughts?

Sounds like you need to have it hooked up to a computer and diagnosed.

Check the ground on the battery. Make sure it is completely tight at the body and the batt terminal. These cars do funny things when not grounded properly.

Thanks.............I took it in and $180 later works like new

Do you know what they did to "fix" it. This would be good info for any of us to know.
Thanks