So while doing some extensive searching on this topic, I came upon an ancient thread.

post3564532.html?hilit=replace%20amplifier#p3564532

It said you can replace the stock amp and speakers, but I've heard replacing a stock bose amp can be a pain in the a$$. So I guess my question is, has anyone done it? What was the procedure? I'm looking at changing out all the speakers for some Polk Audio stuff, including running a second amp with two 10" woofers. I've got it all priced out and ready to go, I just need to know just how hard it is to take out the factory amp and wire in a 4-channel amp in its place.

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

Oh, and if anyone can shed light on how to wire in a 4-channel amp without having to do away with speakers/justify which speakers to get rid of, that would be even more appreciated.

Why do you want to replace the amp? is it busted now? I didn't replace mine however, I did add on a LLC to get signal for another amp for my sub. Dr. Feelgood did put put a wire schematic of the BOSE system which coorelates the incoming wires into the BOSE amp. I think it's sticky'd. I would use that for refference and integrate LLCs to get the signal and run your amp wires as necessary. Why re-invent the wheel ya know...Removing the wires will be a PITAs IMO

I've had people tell me to replace the amp and I've had people tell me to sorta do what you did and bypass the factory amp. Because I want to replace all of my speakers, including the door and rear deck speakers, I was told to buy a new amp to run that system and a separate amp to run the subs. So if I leave the factory amp in and bypass it, I'll find myself still running wires to the speaker area anyway.

I don't know. Its well beyond my expertise which is why I'm asking the forums haha. I'm getting as much insight as I can before plunging into this.

Well the first thing you need to determine is if you are an audiophile...meaning is sound more important to you than say modding your ehaust or suspension. For example, there are two members on here that are extreme audiophile...Dr. Feelgood and Applebonker. I never heard Apple's sysyems however I did have the opportunity to sit and listen in Doc's car and the sound was freaking amazing. So clear and powerful!..and he was running a Mark Levenson system! Once you determine that, then you can proceed to the next step...to go all out or work within your budget. If you're going to do it, do it right! But remember, there is a point of no return in all projects and once you reach that point, there's nothing to do but to move forward in the project. Ultimatley, its your car and you have to listen to it. Who cares what others say or do. Do what is right for you and within your budget and you can't go wrong fro thhe most part. Just research, research research! Hope that helps!

The reason I'm looking into other audio systems is for two big reasons. 1. I've never been a big fan of Bose. It sounds good but just doesn't achieve the level and quality of sound I'm looking for. 2. I've finished most of the major performance mods that I'm going to do.... for now. Down the road I might do jwt cams and uprev. But for now, I'm focusing on the av aspect of the car.

I've spoken with both aforementioned parties. They both provided me with a lot of information that I'm using as a big part of my research. Having forums like these is probably the best resource I could ask for because you get opinions, experience, and expertise. Better than any car forum I've been a part of.

What's the status on your project? I have the same car as you and would suggest replacing the stock POS BOSE amp. I tried the other method and the end product is not that good, too many problems arise, and you cant modify as you would like to. I have tried replacing the stock speakers and seem to never get a good quality sound out, and i think its because of the ohms. i still don't have my drivers side door speaker, because the stock popped and my replacement would barely put out any sound. I did replace the rear 6x9's and they sound decent. But all my speakers are still off of the crappy stock BOSE amp. I want to replace mine too, and was just looking to see if anyone has done it yet. I do have a amp with sub coming off of the rear speakers wire, and even that is not of best quality. Also, i have not and don't really want to replace the head unit.

Has anyone replaced the stock BOSE amp?

-Statik

The auto shop that's going to do the install for me told me they would more likely bypass the amp rather than completely remove it. A lot more wiring required if you completely remove the amp. I'll get an update on here when I get a head unit.

Well that's because they know it will be a job that will take a while to figure out. I'm telling you, in the long run replacing the stock amp is the key. Are they going to replace your door and rear speakers? If they do, please share with the speakers they replace with and exact specs.

if replacing the head unit, i know it would be a lot easier. you can just run the sub amp strait to the head and sub is done, and then the speakers could go to their own amp. but then you have to modify your head setup a lot, and you might lose the 6 disk changer. I know I can't afford that, so i am trying to stick with the stock BOSE head unit.

Please share the results.

The install of this will probably be occurring this weekend (big delay I know, sorry about that). I'm keeping the stock head unit.

Specs for what I'm installing.

Polk Audio 6.5 inch component front speakers with 1" tweeters.
Polk Audio 6X9 composite rear deck speakers.
2 10" SVC subwoofers in sealed box.
Polk Audio 800 watt monochannel amplifier for the subs.
Polk audio 600 watt 4 channel amp.

Will post pics when its finally finished in my build thread.

My factory amp is no longer working and was debating weather I should buy a kicker key200.4 amp which would replace the factory amp or if I should just buy a 4ch amp and replace door speakers I do already have an amp with a kicker solo baric L5 12 inch sub with four gauge kit of ofc should I also upgrade to 1/0 or is it ok with 4 gauge