Replace #2 Injector without removal of intake plenum?

[Wrierblock20]

Is it possible? I got a leaky injector #2 already ran concentrated injector cleaner no luck, its right behind the dizzy but can it be done?

[EdBwoy]

I owned the 3.5 engine, but if you post pictures of yours, we might be able to advice better.
This is for the 98 you posted in another thread, right?

My generic advice is that it is only possible if you can lift the entire bank 2 fuel rail with the plenum still on. My Nissan V8s have had "independent" left and right bank fuel rails in that they are connected by flexible hose, but the V6s have been a continuous metal tube, which meant removing the fuel rails from both banks to avoid bending and causing reseating issues.

[Wrierblock20]

Its the VG33E engine its got the flexible hoses FSM says not to disconnect those any idea why? But great idea if I can reach the fuel rail bolt I can get one of them loose for sure not exactly sure where the 2nd one is though going to have to dig deeper and yes 98 pathy

[Wrierblock20]

I tried removing jusf the injector after taking off Dizzy and since its Phillips its just stripping the metal on the screw is so soft.... What in the world was Nissan thinking putting Phillips screws there... a regular bolt would of made SO much more sense... I don't think I can get to the second bolt for fuel rail... its probobly right under the plenum deep in the back or on the entire rear of engine knowing Nissan, what a PITA, is removing plenum and putting it back together really that bad? Im tempted to do it this weekend if I do im going to just do ALL injectors on that side...

[macgiver]

mac ,I don't know if your engine resembles my VG30DE (J30) - but I was able to R & R ALL of my injectors,they had a "Goofy" phillips head too ,only one needed SOME intake (very careful) grinding . Yeah if it's primarily the SCREW that holds you back , here's what you try .1)STOP- Don't beatup the phillips any more now . 2) Get a long enough ,skinny (Like 3/8" or less wide & 8+ inches long) , wood chisel, that's very sharp and a can of Blaster (Hdw. removal /penetrant) . 3) Spray liberally Blaster on what you judge maybe the MORE difficult / tricky one( for if this fails your left with only the "easy-out" screw ?) . 4) Tap w/ "Beater screwdriver" the phillips - in as many different angles / directions to "shock - it" , spray BLASTER again too , do this at leat 3-times . 4) NOW you take that chisel and "Bite" the head of the phillips - hitting moderately at first , trying , different points so as to not completely destroy a good "groove" you've created - it spins out the screw very slightly each time , and you may have to step-up the force of your "hits" - only if the chisel has a good bite / "groove" .
Your left with using any & ALL assorted small/mini phillips screwdrivers , Needle nose pliers (extreme long-nose) , dremel grinder if as screw comes out - it may interfere w/ manifold , etc., a ready "telescoping Magnet"to control & capture the screw. Most importantly -OBSERVE the "excess " lenght of the screws - many times I go and TRIM their (unnecessary lenghth) ends - for that will "ease" the re-installation !
Good luck G T 3/8/2018