Repair/replacement pin for ecu wiring

[V6er]

Yello!

Tried to measure today LIN bus wire from alternator to ECM (pin 85 on E152 connector) - I think the wire is somewhere damaged. most probably at alternator end, but... who knows.


so... My thinking is - add separate wire from ECM connector to alternator. alternator end doesn't worry me much, but ECM end is trouble...
( still can't decide - whether nissan engineers are geniueses or just they hate everybody equally. )
Considering how wires are installed in loom and connectors - I would like it to be just one attempt - disassemble mounts around there, disassemble ecm connector and replace pin with wire and afterwards connect it back to alternator.
alternatively - I probably can solder/crimp somewhere on wire itself on its way between alternator to ecm.

so
1) are there repair/replacement pin for ecu wiring? I know that toyotas have their fantastic 400+ page wire harness repair manual with part numbers and such. tried to look in nissan catalogue - but seems that either nissan doesn't have anything like that or I can't find it... any suggestions? may be somebody has found pin part numbers which work on these ecu?
2) what tools you suggest to use on testing wiring and conncetors? (don't want to mess up connectors with needles or paper clips).

[VStar650CL]

This gets into an area of asking questions first. What makes you think it's a LIN problem? The ECM will be throwing a U1050 or U1051 if the alternator isn't responding to the bit-bang. If you're not getting one or both of those codes, your problem isn't the LIN.

[V6er]

pictogram of battery on instrument panel and
U1040 - eng comm circuit - suggests measure continuity between generator terminal (F31-2) and ECM (F52 connector - terminal 85 - typo in first post (E152)).
U1044 - same suggested checking procedure
and there was one more I think it was U1050 - same procedure.

[VStar650CL]

Okay, you can get to the face of the ECM connector pretty easily. Ohming the wire and checking pin-fits will tell you pretty much everything you need to know. But I will say up front, LIN codes from the alternator usually mean the internal controller is dead and not wiring damage. Grille shutters (which are on the same bus) are a different story, but your '14 doesn't have one.

You'll need either a piece of 0.025" music wire or a safety pin with 0.024~0.026" diameter to check pin fit. On both connectors you should feel some drag from the spring in the female terminal when you insert the wire. If there's no palpable drag then the terminal is shot. We'll cross that bridge if you come to it. It will be the Green wire terminal at the alternator, and here's a face view of F52 with pin 85 highlighted. You shouldn't need to get behind the connector shell for testing, that's another bridge we'll cross if need be. Use the music wire or pin as the conductor probe for your ohm tests:

14 Rogue ECM Brown.jpg (25.55 KiB) Viewed 4903 times

Disconnect the battery while checking so you can ohm to power. There are no intervening connectors in the LIN circuit, so simply ohm end-to-end (near 0 ohms), from either end to ground (OL), and from either end to 12V (OL). If all of those check good, the wire has integrity and the problem is elsewhere.

[V6er]

I did test continuity (probably a bit barbaric), but I think I don't have connection on this wire - from one end to another. but, probably, will have to do another round of testing - just to be sure. I felt drag when inserting those little "blades" (set of different blades to dismount pins from connectors and such). tried to be as gentle as possible.

battery was not connected (I actually was replacing battery ).
as I said - when I was checking continuity on the wire - I got OL.

now, thinking... I think that the wire/connector at alternator end should be problem. because ECM end is solid... but wire at alternator felt funny...
may be good idea is "open up" wiring sleeve from alternator towards ECM and cut it somewhere there... and get new pin for alternator.

alternator... yeah... that was also one of possible causes.but couldn't find any internal information about alternator... so... don't know. car has 193kmiles on it - it might be it... but it means I could have messed up something - since I got no continuity

p.s. is your picture from FSM? if yes - which part/page? because I found one for this connector but reversed (ECM side, so to speak).

[VStar650CL]

It's from the EWD (electronic wiring diagram), which has some capabilities the PDF's don't have. Swapping the connector view back and forth HS <-> TS is one of them. Very handy, but you need an ASIST subscription.

The alternator connectors live in a much crappier environment than the ECM connectors, so if the shell is brittle or the pin felt the least bit loose, it's time for a new connector.

[V6er]

ok... then will start with new connector there.

[VStar650CL]

If you want a brand new one, the ESM says it's the same as the compressor connector, RH02FB. The service kit for that is p/n 24008-9DM1B, it's about $19 online (list is $28.38). There should also be plenty of them in the JY, it's also used for the Intake Runner Valve on gen2 Rogues and a lot of stuff on other models.

[V6er]

wow (again and again) - thanks for part number!!!
good idea about junkyards... I was thinking about visiting those next week

[VStar650CL]