Removing Tint

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coolcloo1019
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Joined: Wed Nov 27, 2002 7:25 pm
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Does anyone know of a way to get the tint off the back window...i got most of the tint off but now all thats left is the glue, got any suggestions?!?!:confused:


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AZhitman
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Ammonia - Douse it with ammonia, let it sit a while (use soaked paper towels) then scrub with a dry towel. If there's no defrostr grid, use a razor blade after the ammonia.

You can use rubbing alcohol for the last of the residue.

gruntzz
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If you happen to be in the auto parts store and see the bottle of window tint adhesive remover don't waste your money. I got this info from a body shop plus half a can of thinner for free (doesn't happen often so take it when you can) Body decals and window tint when pulled off leave adhesive residue. Use a mild grade paint thinner available anywhere. Use a rag and let the thinner soak the adhesive it will make it "gummy" then use the same wet rag and rub in little circles turning the rag to avoid build up. The adhesive will start to ball up like you used to do in grade school with rubber cement. If you are using this method for body decals it is perfectly safe for your paint just don't let the thinner set for too long or do it in direct sunlight because it will soften your paint. After you are done make sure you give the paint a good waxing. don't forget to wear rubber gloves. BTW the 2 hours I invested stripping the "sport" decals off my truck would have cost me $200 at that body shop.

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AZhitman
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Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
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Autobody decals can also be removed very easily with a hair dryer - Just peel 'em off!

gruntzz - Sounds like you have a Dodge? Good guess, huh? I pulled the decals off my dad's Dakota that way.:D

daniel240
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once you have the worst of it off use some paint thinner or something and some steal wool and rub in cirlcles. this will not scratch the window.

Queamore
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Laqure thinner is the best at cleaning everything. I buy it to degrese engines mostly but it can clean everything thats metal. I buy it by the 4 gallon can. and like gruntzz was saying don't let it sit on the paint to long wipe it off as soon as some spills.

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AZhitman
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That post reminded me of my all-time favorite parts degreaser: Muiratic Acid (aka pool acid). Great for cleaning that suspension or engine part covered in 20 years worth of paint/grime/grease/etc... Use full strength in a well-ventilated area in a 5-gallon paint bucket, take the part to be cleaned and attach a coat hanger and dunk it for a while (wear gloves!) It'll fizz and pop and smoke like all hell, but it comes out as bare metal. Rinse and paint IMMEDIATELY as it will rust.

Did most of the engine and suspension bits from my '68 GS restoration this way...

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Repo Man
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AZhitman wrote:Did most of the engine and suspension bits from my '68 GS restoration this way...


You restored a '68 GS? Cool. 350 or 400ci? I bought a '66 Skylark sight-unseen for $600 three years ago in San Diego. Got out there and the brakes wouldn't make it through the mountains on the way back. So I traded it for a set of Neeper Psychos that are on my dad's Olds Trofeo to this day! Hehe.

Buicks are cool. I don't give a damn what anyone says! :D

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AZhitman
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Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
Location: Surprise, Arizona
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Yep - 68 GS 350. Bought it (typical barn/old lady/under a tarp story) in 88 for $1K. Body-off resto. Cam, headers, manifold (all from local Buick 350 genius Mike Tomaszewski) as well as dual exhaust, lathe-turned/widened Cragar SS's, 3.83 rears, etc... 15.1 @ 96mph.

I have some pix I'll try to scan - And a whole closet full of trophies. Got her into World of Wheels in 1990 - The pinnacle of my show success!!!

Did you read my post about the largest Buick boneyard in the US?


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