removing the head, what else to install in the mean time?

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Fenvy
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hi, I want to install metal head gasket to accomondate higher boost (1 bar)

since it's tearing everything apart, what else shoudl I install or replace at the same time to save labor in the long run? seals?


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luv2spedup
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if u can why not might as well do the spring n retainers and rocker arm stoppers

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teddy
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ARP studs, and make sure to have that head machined.

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Fenvy
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when you say machined.... what do you want me to do?

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twofourzeroSX
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i think he means have it machined flat again...a must do when u take the head off. just go to a local machine shop and have it done. im pulling my head next week for the first time and i am doing a valve job while its out with new valve seals and all that good stuff

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teddy
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exactly what he said is what I mean. You take it to a machine shop to have it machined flat, that way it ensures a proper seal with the headgasket.

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Fenvy
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hm I wonder how much I shoudl spend on everything... shoudl I go further and dig into the block too?

what about those front main seal and rear seal or whatever?

spider_slayer
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S13 240SX

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also have the shop check the valve seals.

i'm pretty sure transmission has to come out to get to the rear seal someone correct me if they have done it some other way.

if you really wanna save on some labor jsut pull the entire engine. it will make taking the head off easier. you can replace the front and main seals. inspect the clutch. test the bearings. basically make sure everyhting is to spec easily without crawling over and under the car.

EDIT: loveless, how the hell did you get 2571 posts ahead of me? i remember about a month after i joined this forum you were at about 500 and i have like 30.

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Fenvy
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so this is what I am going to need... please feel free to add to the list

metal headgasketmachine the damn headrocker arm stockervalve sealsfront main sealoem oil pumphead studs

anything else I am missing?

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teddy
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Might as well replace that valve cover gasket if its the original. Other than that, I think you've got it covered.

ca18det_boy
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Loveless wrote:anything else I am missing?
......a clue

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daz1320
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ca18det_boy wrote:
......a clue

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Fenvy
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NoStickers
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I just got my head back yesterday:

continuous radius valve jobsome porting (didn't pay for it so thats cool...well I don't think I did anyway)springsvalve guidesvalve sealsall mating surfaces machinedinner passages cleaned and had the small holes tapped for plugseverything installedended up paying $890 not including what I paid for the parts


spider_slayer
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S13 240SX

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NoStickers wrote:I just got my head back yesterday:

continuous radius valve jobsome porting (didn't pay for it so thats cool...well I don't think I did anyway)springsvalve guidesvalve sealsall mating surfaces machinedinner passages cleaned and had the small holes tapped for plugseverything installedended up paying $890 not including what I paid for the parts
man.....thats alota cash. do you have any idea how much it woulda been if you have jsut gotten say a 3-angle job and no P&P (i know you say you didn't pay for it but ya know.........)

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NoStickers
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Ya I know, I could have definitely gotten it done cheaper, but I had a shop try and bend me over and pull some **** on me so I kinda had no choice but to send my head to a very reliable shop.

spider_slayer
Posts: 1999
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S13 240SX

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damn, that sucks. at least you got a fully built head out of it.

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Fenvy
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arp head stud?

I did some search and seems like people are having problem fitting.

How ARP want you to properly install it is even more unreasonable, something about installing it to spec, put everything together, warm up, take everything apart, retorque... wtf?


drifter_for_life06
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got the money for cams?

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Fenvy
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bought tomei cams, gear, full race manifold and nismo 740cc injectors

I am willing to spend on the head stud but I don't want it to **** up on me like some of y'all are experiencing

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redline19
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maybe get a timing chain kit while you have everything out, if you have to replace it in the future i'll be a pain.

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Slipstream
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I'd put in a new water pump also. I think most people were having problems with ARP crank bolts. Something about having to shave down the head a bit on the last two. As far as torqueing, then loosening and re-torqueing, I believe that's with any time you put in head bolts and studs. I may be wrong though.


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