Removing R50 Pathfinder engine/ trans by lifting body off.

[Slumpert]

So I plan to lift the body of my 1998 Pathfinder off the subframe tomorrow.
I know it’s not the quickest way to pull the engine and transmission, but it’s in my garage and thanks to Covid, I have plenty of spare time.

To get everyone up to speed, I bought this Pathy because my current 97 Pathy just broke 250,000 miles, both headers are cracked, it’s due for new timing belt, and it’s leaking out the rear seal area. The engine sounds better than mine so I plan to pull it out, deep clean, replace all seals, plugs and timing belt.

So far I have:
stripped the front end off.
removed the mid driveshaft (2wd).
disconnected front brake/abs lines.
disconnected all the connectors for the transmission and unbolted the multiple brackets for the wires and shift cable.
Removed the cat back exhaust - Removed the engine management harness - Removed the steering box - Removed the heater core/ac hoses - Removed vacuumed hoses - Removed air intake - Removed power steering reservoir - removed radiator - disconnected power harness to engine block and loosened the 12 bolts holding the subframe / transmission cross race, and finally removed 4 of the 6 strut top bolts.





Doing a quick “measure” it looks like I just need to lift the front end about 20inches to raise the body above the engine to be able to pull the whole thing out from under the car.
Not sure If I am using the wrong search terms, but I have not seen any posts about this in this method..
Hopefully I will have success photos tomorrow.

[Mike W.]

Not on Pathfinders, but I've heard of that technique being used on BMWs. Different vehicle obviously, but similar given dropping the subframe to remove the engine. And I've heard it works great! Never done it myself though.

[AZhitman]

Have done a 620 and a 720 that way.

Keep in mind, the body will need to be up high for a while, and needs to be super-stable (there's always a snag or something not disconnected).

Don't forget about the fuel filler and vapor lines attached to the frame...

[Slumpert]

Didn’t finish today. Ran out of 4x4’s and I put this way to close to the storage racks on the passenger side so it’s hard to get in there.

I have about 10inches to go before I can drag it out from under the pathy.

If my measurements are correct, I should be able to rent a 6x12 uhaul trailer and haul the chassis to the scrap yard.

[Slumpert]

Welp it’s out.

Used a spare tire to elevate my floor jack side to side.
All told this probably took me north of 24 actual wrenching hours to get the engine out solo without a engine lift.

Literally there is a bracket across the top backside of the driver side that completely blocks access to one of the transmission bolts. Kudos to all you all that are able to pull these engines out.

And of course I was not smart enough to remove the starter and unbolt the torque converter while the underside was easy to get too. Got some awesome cut scrapes from trying to reach through the subframe. Those edges are sharp!

[rgk]

That's pretty cool.

Did you do it that way because you didn't have a hoist? Or just to see if you could?

[RoyDaGeneral]

You may have to do this on your QX4 next, so this is great practice

[Slumpert]

I was simply a “fool” to think it would be easy. I had been under the car and noticed “”just a few” bolts seemed to be holding everything up.

I have a 2002 QX4 already in that same spot in my garage and I will definitely drop that one out the bottom again.
This time I will remove all the suspension parts and unbolt the lower bolts first before dropping it.
Definably hardest bolts were the frighten driveshaft joints. I will order a good 17mm impact swivel socket for the next go around.