anyone disconnected those lines and redirected the steering rack lines back into itself?
cause this leaking power steering is wack. plus when i have to counter steer quick theres that little hesitation. its irratating.
i was lookin for a DIY on here, but i didnt find anything.
any help?
removing power steering
Holy smokes!
I just started this project today myself. I posted a while ago asking the same questions and I got a few good responses, but I don't know of anyone actually re-routing the lines.
My plan is to completely bypass the power steering pump by placing a belt directly from the crank to the water pump. Unfortunately, that means that won't be a tensioner in-line so I have to get a belt that is a very tight fit! The original plan was to remove the crank pulley, put the belt on, and then bolt down the crank pulley. Do you understand what I'm talking about? I can visualize it, but I'm having trouble describing it.
The two belt sizes that I have tried so far are 27 5/8" and 28 1/2". The first is way too small and the second was too big. I just got back from VatoZone with a 28" belt and I'll give that a shot this afternoon after it cools down a little. I can't believe that summer is almost here!
The last thing that I might try, is to change the water pump pulley to a four ribber pulley like the alternator, extend the alternator pulley bolt to match the water pump and run a belt across the crank/water pump/alternator............that way you have a tensioner!
I hear you about the leaky rack. That and the 240 pump just sucks when you try and autocross!
Good luck!
I just started this project today myself. I posted a while ago asking the same questions and I got a few good responses, but I don't know of anyone actually re-routing the lines.
My plan is to completely bypass the power steering pump by placing a belt directly from the crank to the water pump. Unfortunately, that means that won't be a tensioner in-line so I have to get a belt that is a very tight fit! The original plan was to remove the crank pulley, put the belt on, and then bolt down the crank pulley. Do you understand what I'm talking about? I can visualize it, but I'm having trouble describing it.
The two belt sizes that I have tried so far are 27 5/8" and 28 1/2". The first is way too small and the second was too big. I just got back from VatoZone with a 28" belt and I'll give that a shot this afternoon after it cools down a little. I can't believe that summer is almost here!
The last thing that I might try, is to change the water pump pulley to a four ribber pulley like the alternator, extend the alternator pulley bolt to match the water pump and run a belt across the crank/water pump/alternator............that way you have a tensioner!
I hear you about the leaky rack. That and the 240 pump just sucks when you try and autocross!
Good luck!
Okay,
After looking into the bay, I think that I have a new plan. Well, it's still the same plan, but with differences. The alternator belt is a four ribbed belt, so I would need to remove that pulley and place a three ribbed pulley of the same diamter in its place. That shouldn't be a big deal. The problem arises from what I saw in the FSM:
I didn't realize that the pulley and bolt for the alternator thread onto the rotor housing of the alternator itself. If I tried to put a spacer in-line, it would use up all of the threads on the shaft. Also, there is a chance that the belt could rub against the upper radiator hose outlet from the block. The belt angle could be enough so that isn't a problem.
Once I pull the alternator apart I can determine a method for increasing the output shaft length. Right now, the first thing that comes to mind is heading down to the machine shop and making a female/female threader adapter on the lathe. That shouldn't take more than an hour, but with finals and work, it will probably end up taking me a week or more to actually get it done!
If you're interested in this solution to the power steering problem, I'll be sure to keep you informed. A remanufactured steering rack is $350 from NAPA but I think that I (we) will still run into the problem of the hesitation felt in the steering while the pump struggles to move the fluid in the rack.
Isn't there some way to make the FD RX-7 rack mate to our cars? Surely all it would take is a custom pump bracket and decreasing the output length of the tie rods right?
After looking into the bay, I think that I have a new plan. Well, it's still the same plan, but with differences. The alternator belt is a four ribbed belt, so I would need to remove that pulley and place a three ribbed pulley of the same diamter in its place. That shouldn't be a big deal. The problem arises from what I saw in the FSM:
I didn't realize that the pulley and bolt for the alternator thread onto the rotor housing of the alternator itself. If I tried to put a spacer in-line, it would use up all of the threads on the shaft. Also, there is a chance that the belt could rub against the upper radiator hose outlet from the block. The belt angle could be enough so that isn't a problem.
Once I pull the alternator apart I can determine a method for increasing the output shaft length. Right now, the first thing that comes to mind is heading down to the machine shop and making a female/female threader adapter on the lathe. That shouldn't take more than an hour, but with finals and work, it will probably end up taking me a week or more to actually get it done!
If you're interested in this solution to the power steering problem, I'll be sure to keep you informed. A remanufactured steering rack is $350 from NAPA but I think that I (we) will still run into the problem of the hesitation felt in the steering while the pump struggles to move the fluid in the rack.
Isn't there some way to make the FD RX-7 rack mate to our cars? Surely all it would take is a custom pump bracket and decreasing the output length of the tie rods right?
yeah i was thinkin about the shorter belt too. i figured i would just disconnect the lines and make a line that will recirculate the steering fluid into the steering rack.
i thought about how there are different styles of steering racks. would this one get its lubrication from the ps fluid? or does it have a seperate piece in there? if its just seperate then i can just disconnect the lines and not worry about it.
but hopefully friday i'll just tear into it and see what i can do.
i hate power steering. feels like garbage when you drift.
i thought about how there are different styles of steering racks. would this one get its lubrication from the ps fluid? or does it have a seperate piece in there? if its just seperate then i can just disconnect the lines and not worry about it.
but hopefully friday i'll just tear into it and see what i can do.
i hate power steering. feels like garbage when you drift.
See, my major concern is that I don't want to keep the power steering pump and bracket on the car at all. First of all, I have absolutely stripped the motor bay down to a motor and alternator (plus power steering), and looking at that pump makes me angry. That and the puddles of fluid congealing under the rack ends in the morning.
However, I don't want to ruin the pump by leaving it on the car without fluid running through it. The cam ring, rotor and vanes will all be ruined if they spin at several thousand RPM's without fluidic drag on them. Plus, if I ever want to replace the power steering, then I will be out the money for a reman'd pump!
I swear, something has to work. The 28" belt is the easiest solution.......... but only if it works. Should the belt slip and I warp the head due to heat soak from the failed water pump, I guarentee that I will be pretty angry.
However, I don't want to ruin the pump by leaving it on the car without fluid running through it. The cam ring, rotor and vanes will all be ruined if they spin at several thousand RPM's without fluidic drag on them. Plus, if I ever want to replace the power steering, then I will be out the money for a reman'd pump!
I swear, something has to work. The 28" belt is the easiest solution.......... but only if it works. Should the belt slip and I warp the head due to heat soak from the failed water pump, I guarentee that I will be pretty angry.
http://www.sportcompactcarweb....lvia/
I just read this a while back and it details how to remove the power steering as a part of an SR swap. You guys will have to wade through it all to find the steering part. Hope it helps.
Edit: Wait, I just read through it again and it doesn't really say much. Nevermind.
I just read this a while back and it details how to remove the power steering as a part of an SR swap. You guys will have to wade through it all to find the steering part. Hope it helps.
Edit: Wait, I just read through it again and it doesn't really say much. Nevermind.
so that stupid pump needs that fluid so it doesnt blow the hell up eh? hehe. alright. iguess i could just reroute the steering rack lines back into itself, and the pump will go only to the resovior. geezus. i cant believe i have to keep that crap.
maybe i can find another tensioner of some sort from another car and make that fit. hmmmm....
maybe i can find another tensioner of some sort from another car and make that fit. hmmmm....