Removing panel?

[Linds]

Has anyone removed the panel where the mirror controls, VDC, and AWD (if you have it) are? First, any tips or tricks to get it off, or do I just use a little force to pull it off? If so, anything I need to be careful of when removing?

I'm going to put a few amber/orange lights in the footwells and maybe if I get adventurous under the seats so the rear footwells are slightly illuminated too. Nothing too drastic, but I wouldn't mind having a bit more "ambient lighting"

Panel I'm talking about:

Ideally, I'd like to pull that panel off, use a dremel to cut out a section and mount a switch on there to turn on/off the lights whenever I want. Otherwise I'll just tap into the headlight fuse and have them come on that way.

Thoughts?

[robf70837]

Page IP-18 of the ESM shows the removal of the switch panel.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Rogue/2009/IP.pdf

[Elton Noway]

Page IP-18 of the ESM shows the removal of the switch panel.

robf Thanks for the link and page reference. Problem is, as usual I find the maintenance manual can leave a lot to the imagination. For instance... in this case we know we want to remove the switch panel. So we refer to the maintenance manual and the very first instruction step says: Remove Switch Panel (1) DOH! You'll have to admit that's not much in the way of instruction. (Certainly not step-by-step)

However... the good thing is they provide an illustration that shows the locations of the anchor points (where the locking tabs are that hold the panel in place) . i.e. yellow triangles. You want to pry at these locations to prevent cracking the panel or breaking off an anchor.



Linds... unless someone else chimes in, although I have not removed this specific panel, I have removed others. I find if I can get a thin edge tool under the panel I'm removing, in the exact location of the locking tabs/anchors, I can pull lift them apart just enough to get my fingertips in place and continue pulling. HINT: I use a hair dryer to warm the plastic so I don't have to worry about it breaking from being too stiff. I only use "plastic" hand tools when prying off panels. For the thin edge tools I reference above I use a plastic putty knife.

I'm also planning on removing the same panel. Like you I was planning on using a Dremel so I could mount a switch in there as well but mine is going to be an off on switch for the fog lights (once I complete my re-wiring). At this point I'm not sure if I want to use a factory switch from Nissan to match the other switches... or go with a lighted rocker so I'll know when the fog lights are on.




Modified by Elton Noway at 12:45 PM 1/9/2010

[Linds]

Awesome

Elton - it looks like we have the same idea in mind. You mention a factory switch - are these readily available somewhere? Might be a bit easier than busting out with a dremel. Thanks for the advice about using a hair dryer and about the anchor points... I would have eff'd something up for sure.

Times like these when I wish I would have paid more attention when I was younger - when I was 19 my dad wired a set of footwell neons in my Escort, wired everything with a switch, etc. He died in an accident a year ago, so I'm left semi-clueless. (I suppose I should forward the forum - I'll be asking TONS of advice, because I want to get a little more handy in the auto world... I could change my oil in my last car, but thats about it!)

[Elton Noway]

Awesome

Elton - it looks like we have the same idea in mind. You mention a factory switch - are these readily available somewhere? Might be a bit easier than busting out with a dremel. Thanks for the advice about using a hair dryer and about the anchor points... I would have eff'd something up for sure.

Well... the parts department at any Nissan dealership could order you the switch if they didn't have one in stock. As for the switch itself the easiest solution would be to order another VDC switch like the one already in the panel. I say easiest because the two switch blanks shown here highlighted in red are just hole covers that can be easily removed.



Buying another VDC switch would fit in either of the two openings (once you remove the blanks) and could be done without the need of a Dremel tool. The only reason you'd need to use a Dremel would be if you go with an aftermarket switch that doesn't fit the blank hole opening. If you get the VDC switch from a Nissan dealer you could remove the VDC lettering with some light sanding... 300 grit wet-or-dry, followed by 600 grit.

Unfortunately... there is also a downside to buying another VDC switch. The switch itself is a momentary contact switch. It would require you to add a relay to the wiring circuit thus complicating the wiring if you not familiar with wiring circuits etc. A switch like the lighted one I indicated in my earlier thread is a SPST switch. It is mechanical in nature (i.e., one click on, one click off) A momentary switch like the once used in the VDC circuit is spring loaded in the open / off position. (the lighting circuit would only remain on (closed) as long as you hold the button). A relay in the circuit would hold it closed for you.

I found these switches on eBay... they would do the trick and would not require the use of a relay but you may need to use the Dremel to get the switch body to fit the opening. A good thing about these is they have a flange that surrounds the switch body so the hole you cut doesn't have to be real pretty because the flange will cover it. Also good is you get four of them for $14.99... which seems to be a better value that than the ones on Amazon. (Measure 1.5"H x .9W x 1.3"D)

Times like these when I wish I would have paid more attention when I was younger - when I was 19 my dad wired a set of footwell neons in my Escort, wired everything with a switch, etc. He died in an accident a year ago, so I'm left semi-clueless. (I suppose I should forward the forum - I'll be asking TONS of advice, because I want to get a little more handy in the auto world... I could change my oil in my last car, but thats about it!)

Sorry to hear about your Dad. My Dad died much to young thanks to a lifetime of cigarettes. He started smoking when he was 16. I wish I would have said something when I was younger to try and get him to quit. Regrets

Since you are only talking about installing footwell lighting you should be okay with trial an error connections because the only wiring you'll be cutting and splicing will be wire you will be adding as part of the install. The wire is usually included in most kits and the wiring instructions are usually easy enough to follow without too much confusion. Probably the most difficult part to installing ambient lighting in your ride is making the decision on which color kit to go with and which light technology to buy...Neon, LED or Cold Cathode.

Neonhttp://www.streetglow.com/AN6NB?sc=2&category= ... ..aspxClod Cathodehttp://www.oznium.com/cathode-kit

NOTE: Unless a person is very familiar with electrical circuits, wiring, fundamentals, schematics etc... I would not recommend they cut into or splice any of the Rogues factory wiring. You could accidentally fire off the airbags, fry the electrical system and/or void the warranty.
Modified by Elton Noway at 11:15 AM 1/10/2010