Removing Intake Sprockets

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yodawill2000
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I'm wishing now I would have broke loose these 19mm bolts before I pulled the old belt :(.
I cant find a way to keep the sprocket from spinning to save my life , and valves.
I tried the belt loop thing on the other site and it still tries to spin when I put torque on it.
Any tricks I may be missing ?
:eek:


GerryO
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Wish I could recall exactly how we did it, but wrapping once around the sprocket that you are working on (engaging as many teeth as possible), before doubling up the belt and sort of back-wrapping the doubled-up belt around a stationary point (smooth sides out), worked for me. One sprocket at a time and a second person is required, plus an 18" long 1/2" drive breaker bar is your friend too, and a little penetrating oil never hurts either.

Useful stationary points may have been any of the three idler pulleys or their bare mounting bolts.
Last edited by GerryO on Sat Jul 21, 2012 9:12 am, edited 2 times in total.

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yodawill2000
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Ive had it soaking for a few days.
I guess I will get my boy over here and see if we can pop it loose.
He's a moose and does really well with a breaker bar. :)
I tried looping the old belt around it and then clamping the belt towards the middle of the engine, while it was tight on the sprocket. Still wanted to turn.

GerryO
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You might also ask the question on the Z32 Tech forum, as those younger guys seem to do work on their own cars a lot more than the typical J30 owner. This calls for a YouTube video!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjU_G7GK ... re=related

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yodawill2000
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Nice vid but I wish he would pull the intake sprocket !! lol

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yodawill2000
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Looks like the pre 94 intake sprockets had a hole in them to seize it up for removal.
Mine doesn't. dang. lol
That would be a breeze.

GerryO
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Copy and paste the line below into your browser address bar.

ttzd.com/tech/timingbelt/beltwrap.html

Based on the Page Info, the Address and Referring URL information for the link in the write up are swapped, so clicking on it as a link won't get you directly to where you want to go.

Here are a few photos that you should see there, in addition to the written instructions.

Image

Image

Image

Image
Last edited by GerryO on Sat Jul 21, 2012 11:07 am, edited 6 times in total.

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yodawill2000
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I should be able to do the drivers side. But on the passenger side he uses a alternator mount stud and I was trying to avoid pulling it.

GerryO
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yodawill2000 wrote:Looks like the pre 94 intake sprockets had a hole in them to seize it up for removal.
Mine doesn't. dang. lol
That would be a breeze.
Don't recall any holes on my '92/'93 and used the wrap technique to loosen and tighten 'em all.

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yodawill2000
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Got em' loose !! All by my little self lol
Ive printed out those pics, but be aware.
Its important to turn the belt back on itself in the exact spot because that controls how much belt you have to loop around the other end.
12 o'clock on the passenger side and 7 on the drivers.
Used a 3/8ths socket with a nice closed end BIG wrench for torque and done !!

GerryO
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Nice work! So many details to be learned the first time through, and later forgotten by the time the next change is due.

Check each of the camshafts to make sure that they are temporarily in an at rest position, otherwise they can unexpectedly jump a bit.

During reassembly, be careful not to overtighten any of the timing belt cover stand-offs, like I did.

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yodawill2000
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rjr that.
I print everything off on a Color laser so I have it next time. :)
I use a torque wrench on reassembly so I'm pretty safe.

GerryO
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yodawill2000 wrote:I use a torque wrench on reassembly so I'm pretty safe.
Same here, but I don't own a micro torque wrench, and a few specs call for in-lbs and not ft-lbs.


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