Removing Broken Spark Plug

[WCressman]

While inserting a new spark plug into my '95 240SX, I accidentally set my torque wrench setting too high. The top half of the spark plug split off, leaving just the nut with a hole in it and the ignition tip screwed into the cylinder. I'm trying to find a way to remove the screwed in remainder of the spark plug, which is difficult how recessed it is down in the engine.

I've purchased an easy out but I can't get it down far enough into the spark plug hole at the end of my drill. If I could find a way to put the easy out on my ratchet I could get it down there, but I don't know of a way to get a an easy out drill fitting onto a ratchet.

Help!

[5upra]

so you are saying all that is in your head is the threads...how the hell did that happen. thats impossible, the most durable part of a plug. You would have stripped the alunimum head before that. I think you just broke off the top. you should be able to put a socket on it

[WCressman]

I've attached a photo of my broken spark plug (on the right) and a intact spark plus (on the left). As you can see the thread and igniter on the top of the spark plug has stripped off and is stuck in the top of the cylinder. There's nothing to get a ratchet on to remove it.

[5upra]

damn...never seen that before, must be a plug defect. use an easy out or similar product.

[driftingmy240sx]

having been in that situation before i was able to use a large flat blade srew driver to turn it out by twisting on the ground electrode. however if the threaded sectio does not turn somewhat freely you will be in aworld of hurt as you have likely heated the aluminnum up with the excessive torque causing it to melt the threads to the steel plug. you may also want to try reverse drill bits (matco make the best set in my opinion) as when it bites it tends pull whats being drilled out with out have to really drill it out.

[bigblue]

having been in that situation before i was able to use a large flat blade srew driver to turn it out by twisting on the ground electrode. however if the threaded sectio does not turn somewhat freely you will be in aworld of hurt as you have likely heated the aluminnum up with the excessive torque causing it to melt the threads to the steel plug. you may also want to try reverse drill bits (matco make the best set in my opinion) as when it bites it tends pull whats being drilled out with out have to really drill it out.

I agree. The flat head is a great method if you're as lucky as him. You have your work cut out for you but you should definitely try this before considering drilling/easy outing since those methods, though more effective usually will potentially intrude metal chips into your combustion chamber.

Since you no longer have the hex (bolt) part of the plug creating tension on the threads, you will not need as much torque to remove the broken stud of the plug, provided the threads are straight, clean and smooth, like driftingmy240sx mentioned. To better prepare you for this you probably should pull the valve cover and try to get as much penetrating oil inside from up top as you can, and let it soak in first. If this does not work you might want to attempt heating up the head while trying to keep the broken plug as cold as possible to expand the aluminum threads around it. If you gently use a torch, try to dry off the cams and everything under the valve cover and remove anything plastic/rubber in the way. Hopefully you wont be taking a blowtorch to your head.

Good luck.

[WCressman]

Thanks for everybody's incredibly useful help, which put me on the right track. I managed to remove the broken spark plug using the follows, just in case anybody else experiences the same problem.

1) I sprayed the spark plug hole with PB Blast for two days running, to give it time to seep in.2) I then tried using a long screwdriver to twist the spark plug igniter tip, but that didn't work.3) Then I connected an easy out to a ratchet and got the tip out that way, which was relatively easy and didn't damage the thread.4) Finally I used my magnetic 'antenna' tipped tool to retrieve one small metallic fragment from the cylinder itself.

Wayne C.

[seanjh336]

how did u get the easyout on ur ratchet cause i am having the same problem with my altima and it is driving me freakin crazy

[mcbean409]

I am in the EXACT same predicament. I have read your posts and am going to try the preceding recomendations. Thank you for posting these. I will let you know how it turns out.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

You SHOULD be able to find a socket that will fit that, but if you can't, you can always weld a bolt onto the top of it, and then use said bolt's respective socket. I did that with tap once... worked like a charm.

[ablaize]

I realize this is an older thread but since it came up at the top of my search for this problem on Google, I thought it might be helpful to post an answer to the questions about getting the EZ-Out to fit your ratchet in case any others run into this issue.

1. Use needle nose pliers to place a #5 easy out into the hole of the broken plug
2. Place a 6 inch 3/8 extender on top of the EZ Out
3. attach a 7/16 star pattern (12 point) socket on top of the extender
4. Your 3/8 inch ratchet will fit perfectly into the open socket on top of the extender.

[sx moneypit]

Good tip!
Welcome to NICO!



-Ben