Remove install CD deck?

[banffslider]

I have been told just pop the cover off the dash, but I have pried away at it and am risking cracking it without any success. Can anyone post pics of the removal process as i desperatly need an amp and sub.

[r34 gtr]

AND I QUOTE:

The plastic dash piece that surrounds the stereo, A/C, and shifter is retained with four spring clips; just lift it off. The stereo is secured into the dash by a bracket and four mounting screws. Remove these screws, then lift the old stereo unit out. Remove the bracket from the old unit by removing two screws on each side of the unit. Disconnect all wires to the old unit. You should see two rectangular plastic connectors and an antenna connector.

The wire functions of the plastic connectors are:

WIRE COLOR FUNCTION WHAT IT DOES & HOW TO CONNECT IT

LIGHT GREEN: AMPLIFIER POWER This is an output from the unit. When turned on, the unit should apply +12V power to this signal. If you have the Nissan premium sound package, its amplifiers use this signal to control their on/off state. Connect this to the ANTENNA POWER output on the new unit.

RED: REAR LEFT SPEAKER +

GREEN: REAR LEFT SPEAKER - DO NOT CONNECT TO GROUND

VIOLET: REAR RIGHT SPEAKER +

PINK: REAR RIGHT SPEAKER - DO NOT CONNECT TO GROUND

BLUE: +12V ACCESSORY This is the main power input to the unit. It is active onlywhen the ignition is in the ACC or ON positions.

RED: W/YELLOW STRIPE ILLUMINATION - NOT USED

RED W/BLUE STRIPE: ILLUMINATION + NOT USED

BLACK W/RED STRIPE: ANTENNA POWER This is an output from the unit. When turned on, the unit should apply +12V power to this signal. The power antenna uses this signal to control its up/down state. Connect to the ANTENNA POWER output on the new unit.

RED W/BLACK STRIPE: +12V BATTERY This is the backup (memory and clock) power input to the unit. It is always active.

BROWN W/WHITE STRIPE: FRONT RIGHT SPEAKER +

BROWN: FRONT RIGHT SPEAKER - DO NOT CONNECT TO GROUND

BLUE W/YELLOW STRIPE: FRONT LEFT SPEAKER - DO NOT CONNECT TO GROUND

BLUE W/WHITE STRIPE: FRONT LEFT SPEAKER +

BLACK: (DOES NOT EXIST IN CAR’S WIRING HARNESS) GROUND This is the ground connection for the unit. It should be connected to the car’s metal frame. The shifter boot retainer ring is an ideal place to attach to.

From: Nissan 240SX Car Stereo Installation Guide by Ivan Baggett

It does in fact just clip off. I would recommend starting with the area around the shift boot and working your way back. From there it should be really easy. By the way, I can't vouch for the correctness of the above information. I would confirm it but my 240 is not in front of me. Sounds legit enough though.

[sr20power]

No need to remove the dash if your installing a radio. Do what ^ R34 GTR said.

[banffslider]

Wow, thanks. that was a fast reply. Ok will try to lift it off. There is a Kenwood deck in there so will have to look carefullly at the wires, but I think it is just about plug and play for the amp and sub.

[94_240sx]

Remove ash tray and upper right corner there's a clip you can push up from underneath. Don't pry it out with screw driver or anything. Once that clip is popped up, you can pop out others easily.

[s13_chris]

^ reach inside the shift boot and lift from there. Like fish hook the corners of the console surrounding the shifter. I lift from there instead of taking out ashtray stuff.

[VRoy]

+1 this thread came through. Haven't thought of getting the plastic out that way, no more broke clips

[94_240sx]

^ reach inside the shift boot and lift from there. Like fish hook the corners of the console surrounding the shifter. I lift from there instead of taking out ashtray stuff.

You know my car used to be Auto, so....

[s13_chris]

^ Sorry?

[johnny butt]

^ Sorry?

So going from the ash tray is easier if it's auto. Then it probably became forced habit.

[banffslider]

Alrighty then, goin through the ashtray has worked thank you very much.The Kenwood deck has been bolted in and I am now taking all that apart to get at the back to install a sub. Whoever put all this in certainly put alot in, there are wires for a CD changer in there too. Now I just have to run power to the back of the car for the amp, cause the little 10 Amp fuse keeps blowing if I try to use the stock little round amps power wire. I am hopin the ground and remote wires from the stock harness work.Thanks everyone for their suggestions

[94_240sx]

^ Sorry?

My car used to be auto, so I couldn't do this --> "reach inside the shift boot and lift from there."

[banffslider]

Your wiring directions helped, thank you. I am having to install my own power wire from the battery as the one that goes to the stock little round amp is only on a 10 amp fuse and the amp I am using is a little bigger. Other than that, all the rest of the wires will do right? Ground and remote, aka light green wire? Or could I just put in a bigger fuse and use the stock wiring?

[banffslider]

Successful stereo install, kind of. Now the real problem, the water pump. I am trying to replace it as it leaks but the steps I was given were missing a few critical ones. To remove the fan shroud you have to remove the intake pipe and then remove or diplace all the wires and hoses attached to the top of the fan shroud. The biggest hurdle I am having now is the belt adjuster, I am turning it but nothin is loosening.[QUOTE=banffslider]Your wiring directions helped, thank you. I am having to install my own power wire from the battery as the one that goes to the stock little round amp is only on a 10 amp fuse and the amp I am using is a little bigger. Other than that, all the rest of the wires will do right? Ground and remote, aka light green wire? Or could I just put in a bigger fuse and use the stock wiring? Anyone help?

[240sxFTW]

want me to come over and give you a hand? we'll go for a little snowboard sesh in sunshine if you want and if you snowboard.

Anyway the belt tensioner is tensioned by the one bolt, just loosen that and your good to go. IIRC. and while your at the water pump just throw in a new thermostat, its like 11 dollars or something. Just for piece of mind. and when you do the water pump remember to seal the entire thing with gasket maker, i think you can buy a gasket too for cheap which would be a good idea in my opinion.

And As for the stereo, the red thick wire wire goes from your amp to the battery, then a seperate wire goes from the amp to the deck. The only power to the deck is from the wires that are in the deck right now.

[banffslider]

Hey, a Local, awesome! Actually, I monoski, best of both worlds as far as I am concerned.The belt tensioner has a bolt on the bottom under the pulley to loosen and the main bolt pointing to the side to adjust, and when I did that, nothing happened. I ended up loosening the adjuster and using a big screw driver and hammer to get anything to move. Something else in there is still tight.

As for the amplifier, I am talking about the little stock one that is between the rear speakers, it has the same wiring harness that the deck came with. So was trying to run my amp off those wires but blew the fuse immediately as it is a 10 amp fuse. I have run a big power wire to the amp now, so now I can listen to tunes in my car that won't move. Actually, I am in the process of putting it all back together now, as it has started snowing heavily.I have a new thremostat and belts , except an AC belt as my AC doesn't work anyway.

[240sxFTW]

Hows the mountains? I wanna go boardin really bad. been up to sunshine yet?