removal of turbo from exhaust

[SlowTK]

I've been having a boost/exhaust leak on my stock SR for a little while now. After having tried to identify the source of them, I believe they're both coming from the turbo housing area.

After tearing some stuff apart and attempting to pull the turbo off, I believe I've found the source of the issue. From where the exhaust manifold connects to the turbo, there are four nuts. One of the nuts was missing. Now, with those nuts, there is a bracket with a small tab that is bent over the nut, which keeps it in place. These little tabs have been a PIA to bend up.

Is there an easier way to go about removing those four nuts?

[CoupedUp]

Unfortunately not, use a long screwdriver, thats my only advice. : /.

When you go to reassemble the turbo assembly use good hardware, maybe lock nuts and loctite.

[Stripes]

yea man, i just took mine off today and it was biznitch to do. you just gotta keep workin at it until you get them off. it's frustrating i know, but thats what oem placement is all about

[240_SeX]

Is there an easier way to go about removing those four nuts?

Take the motor out

[blinker_fluid]

Take the manifold and turbo off as an assembly, its alot easier than screwin around with those tabs while its on the engine.

[duffman1278]

Usually you just got replace those tabs when you remove the old ones because their REALLY hard to take off while keeping them reusable.

[SlowTK]

Thanks for the responses. Ideallily, I would like to pull it off as one whole unit (manifold and turbo) but am not able to because of the oil feed lines to the turbo. Hmm... maybe those lines aren't as difficult to get to as I originally thought.

Take the motor out

No, no, no, no, no, no. Lack of skills, equipment, and location. But thanks for the suggestion (sarcasm and all).

[blinker_fluid]

The lines are easy to get to just don't drop the copper washers for the banjo fittings, if you do you will never see them again..lol. Also the line in the back of the motor is a little tricky a long set of needle nose pliers helps alot.

[SlowTK]

Sweet. Time to work on the car, again. Thanks for the help.

[jr_ss]

I just had to do this myself... I pulled the turbo and manifold off as a unit. It's the only way you'll be able to access all 4 nuts and the locking tabs. The lines are not that hard to get too, but be sure to drain all your fluids from the engine, otherwise you'll have a nice mess under/around your car. Disconnect the DP elbow, either from the dp or the back of the turbo, your choice. I however have the Circuit Sports DP which is a single unit. Get the turbo/manifold out, don't forget to loosen/remove the oil drain from the turbo. Once it's out, pull the turbo from the manifold, if you have the time, take it to a machine shop and have them plane the flange that bolts to the head. Mine was off and I had a leak at number cyl #4. I suggest using the 7 layer exhaust manifold gasket, but be sure to clean the head flange good from the old gasket. Frsport.com has locking nuts as seen here ( http://www.frsport.com/FRSport....html )for the for the exhaust manifold, I used those in combination with the locking tabs (which can be used again), if they are still tough to bend. Tighten the manifold and turbo as a unit outside of the car, it's the only way to get them extremely tight. Then reverse order for putting it back. It's not complicated, just takes some time. Have fun/good luck.

[Emperor_Tha]

I recommend ss line when reinstalling the rear water line behind the block is a pita

[reccakun08]

I just had to do this myself... I pulled the turbo and manifold off as a unit. It's the only way you'll be able to access all 4 nuts and the locking tabs. The lines are not that hard to get too, but be sure to drain all your fluids from the engine, otherwise you'll have a nice mess under/around your car. Disconnect the DP elbow, either from the dp or the back of the turbo, your choice. I however have the Circuit Sports DP which is a single unit. Get the turbo/manifold out, don't forget to loosen/remove the oil drain from the turbo. Once it's out, pull the turbo from the manifold, if you have the time, take it to a machine shop and have them plane the flange that bolts to the head. Mine was off and I had a leak at number cyl #4. I suggest using the 7 layer exhaust manifold gasket, but be sure to clean the head flange good from the old gasket. Frsport.com has locking nuts as seen here ( http://www.frsport.com/FRSport....html )for the for the exhaust manifold, I used those in combination with the locking tabs (which can be used again), if they are still tough to bend. Tighten the manifold and turbo as a unit outside of the car, it's the only way to get them extremely tight. Then reverse order for putting it back. It's not complicated, just takes some time. Have fun/good luck.

Did you use new studs?

[whiplash willy]

No matter what, replace that gasket between the turbo and manifold, and make sure to get new locking tabs, you don't want to have to do this again. Also, you really should get new stainless oil and water lines, if the stock hardlines get bent at all, which is really easy to do during removal, its almost impossible getting them back in, and you risk stripping your block.

[tercel drifter]

great thread i was going to this weekend but lack of time stopped me.