Removable Parts for a KA24DE system

[xxtrizz]

I was wondering there are specific parts that are infact removable for the sohc and dohc engines namely the AIV. But I was curious about other removable parts as well.

I noticed there is a vacuum canister on my sohc car near the right headlight housing. I was curious as to wether or not that is removable? I know it sounds silly but Dont the SR engines not use a vacuum canister? It seems to me the engine space retainment for the sr engine series is much better. As I can plainly see it looks as if the vacuum system is mostly redirected throught the engine itself rather then the whole system being redirected to a canister.

Also I was curious as to whether the non turbo sr had coilpacks or if they used spark plugs. From what I can see it appears as if the engine uses spark plugs. Also is the ignition system for the non turbo sr and the turbo sr basically in the wiring harness itself? So all that is needed is a connection to the distributor?

The reason I ask is I wanted to make my bay as accesible as possible kinda like a mustang bay. By either removing unnecessary parts from the KA24de engine or buying a s14 non turbo and putting it in which from my understanding doesnt require a bunch of the parts currently in the bay.

Im going for an empty bay kinda look. I want alot of space left over. I hate a cluttered bay. Im picky I know. Thanks guys. Sorry if the questions expressed in this post are kinda stupid.

[EnzoRWD]

mechanical fan and shroud can go. rewire an efan..

[pr240sx]

Well, you can remove:Mech fan, go electricAIV, EGR pipes and relatem vaccum hardwareRemove, cap and seal vaccum lines, you only need 2 (fuel pressure and brake booster!!)Remove heater lines, re-route coolant lines afterwardAls, for that non cluttered engine look, try using wire looms for the wiring.

[xxtrizz]

Well, you can remove:Mech fan, go electricAIV, EGR pipes and relatem vaccum hardwareRemove, cap and seal vaccum lines, you only need 2 (fuel pressure and brake booster!!)Remove heater lines, re-route coolant lines afterwardAls, for that non cluttered engine look, try using wire looms for the wiring.

Ok well I havent seen a DOHC ka24de engine b4 so Im going to go over a couple of these.

The Mech to elec fan is the same for the sohc so I got that no prob. But I was curious about a couple of the other ones.

AIV I know, but the EGR pipes and related vaccum hardware. Lets see if I removed the EGR pipes that wouldnt have an adverse affect on my engine idle? Im not sure how its hooked up precisely but Was curious how you could just remove these parts without negative affects. I realize the AIV set up is to heat up air to the cat and so on which is a reasonable removal but was wondering how the EGR piping and vaccum actually maintain the system b4 removal and why its not necessary.

Where do the cap and seal vaccum lines plumb into? If those are removable I would assume after everything has been taken out the EGR vacuum lines and the cap and seal ones then that vaccum canister is removable? The things I really want to remove are the vaccume canister because I dont want those freakin vaccum lines running across the front of my engine over the mech fan shroud. Where do the two ends for the fuel vaccum go to? I know where the brake booster vaccum is. Did the sea foam stuff.

Also one more question if I got rid of the vaccum lines that you have described would I have to plug up some of the original hook ups or something? Or would I jsut be removing all the parts and peices. After removing the hoses its done kinda thing.

Arent the heater lines behind the engine block on the firewall?

The reason I ask is I have access to a very low mileage ka24de engine on a 97 and I can get it for like 1k but I want a clean bay and if that cluttered stuff in the bay is a necssity then Im going to have to go with the sr.

Could you elaborate as to what Wire looms are? Thansk alot guys!

[Silent Drifter]

Also if you block off all the vaccuum lines besides brake booster an FPR wouldnt you have a rough idle?

[Asleep Altima]

oh and btw, ALL nissan and just about every other gasoline engine uses spark plugs.

[xxtrizz]

oops I should have known that I wasnt quite sure what a coilpack was. But Ive seen one I should have known.... my bad

[pr240sx]

Quote »Also if you block off all the vaccuum lines besides brake booster an FPR wouldnt you have a rough idle?[/quote]

Nope, everything still the same, the only thing that could give you rough idle will be a vacumm leak somewhere in the system.

Under the DOHC intake manifold lays a series of metal pipes that carries vaccum to all the emission crap (AIV, Carbon Canister, EGR/BPT etc) just plug them ALL, the best way is to remove the intake manifold and plug them in both sides (front and back) also you can remove the SVC and plug them too.

Also you will need a hose for the PCV to work so please add that to my list.

As for the looms, I try to use the space between the manifold to run wiring for all the related sensors or use the inyector harness cover to hide them.

[Silent Drifter]

wish we could get some pics of it up on here.

[xxtrizz]

Yeah pr240 did you set up your system as you dscribed it? Would you mind taking some photos?

[pr240sx]

I have pics,with the manifold out of the car. An easy job, just time consuming.I have right nowFPRBrake BoosterIdle related crap (IACV-AAC)I bumped the idle to 800 rpm because the Efans kicking inCar runs great, no prob.ANd please, DONT remove or open any idle control device without a gasket replacement.

[Silent Drifter]

post some pics up man!

[EnzoRWD]

pr240- how does your ka fare in smog tests?

[pr240sx]

What is that?? :icesangel

Dunno how, I dont smog my car anymore(dont ask)But last time I smog it didnt pass because high HC (by 4-5 points)

[Silent Drifter]

pr240sx we gettin pics or what!

[xxtrizz]

i fyou coudl email me your pics to me that woudl be great, also would you mind like circling your changes on the pics?

[email protected] this would help me out alot I jsut want to get rid of that damn vacuum canister.

[pr240sx]

Here are te picsMind you that some lines STILL have vaccumm there, that why the "plug" is a hose connected to another port.

[xxtrizz]

Hmm ok I had to type the links in a window to see them but uhh could you elaborate to me as to what vaccums those are? Which ones dod you recirculate to eahcother? Kinda confused about what im seeing I notice that the one pic is from the back of the engine behind the manifold. But not sure as to what the vaccum hookups are there. THanks alot

[xxtrizz]

Ok I just realized this but HAHA I read your post and I assumed that there was infact "Cap and seal" vaccum lines haha I was thinking these were actual components. But apon further inspection there is infact a needed break in reading when looking at that sentence. From my second take of the sentence I can surmise that you ment for me to "Remove, cap and seal, those vaccum lines" hahah man that was great.

Hey was curious where do you live? Im assuming you live in the south bacause of the emmision testing.

How come most people jsut dont put a smoke stack filter in their exhaust piping? That would work wonders.

Oh yeah would you be able to come to where I live and show me how to do this for free? That would be so good to hear

[trpower7]

This is tons of misinformation. Anyone reading this post please disregard all of this; it's frought with more errors than I can even figure out now. Mother of God what have we done...........

[pr240sx]

Why is this misinformative?He asked of whathe can remove on an engineI removed all that crap. Not needed here.I did it, it worked.I am sure that he/she can do it, will work too

Also I live in San Juan PR, the emissons testing here are quite simple, only a visual (but they dont know what to look for so..) no sniffer.

[xxtrizz]

Ok I decided to take a closer look at the vacuum lines that directly are in my way. The ones running to the vacuum canister. Now my question is does the vacuum canister act like a carbon canister? I notice it has to vacuum lines running back into the intake itself. Which would be removable one I upgraded the intake to CAI or something. The other I couldnt see exactly but it looked simple enough to reroute at least two of them so they suction of themselves.

IM not gonna mess with the EGR I like emission stuff so im gonna leave that alone. But I will take the AIV off its common sense this helps so bam its gone.

But the vacuum hoses that go to the vacuum canister actually easily rerouted or capped off. Hmm excellent hehehe

Oh yeah and i htink I might put a filter in my exhaust at the muffler tip. Maybe not get a full cat back and get a custom small pipe and then put a filter in at the weld on the muffler so that it cleans the air coming out of it. Would be kinda cool to do.

[pr240sx]

Ok, there are 4 lines to the canister. Depending on what you are going to do you can remove them and throw out the canister or keep trhe canister but not connectes to the manifold in any way. From the top you will see 3 lines, one bigger than the other 2. the bigger all 3 goes to the manifold ports under the throttle body BUT in different locations. One is vaccum actuator that actually open the canister valve. This is the Vaccum lineThe bigger one connects to the intake pipe thru a T connector alongside of the IACV line, this is the VENT connectorThe other small one goes to the same T connector, and to a port under the throttle body so whenever the vaccum increases the valve opens and sucks from the canister.The 4th one is the actual line that goes to the gas tank to the canister, its goes under the canisterWhat I did was to bypass the vaccumm actuator and use the VENT as a suction line for it.No problem since them, no gas tank venting whenever I remove the gas cap or anything.If you are going to remove the AIV. you can safely trace back both lines under the throttle body and plug them intead of plugging them at the valve. Or better yet, disconnect the line that go to the exhaust, disconnect the AIV harness and leave the solenoid there.

[xxtrizz]

Yeah on my car though I believe ther are only 3 lines. The fuel tank vacuum the canister valve vacuum and then the recirclating vaccum to the intake.

Mines the s13 though so we might have diff setups. SO what I was thinking was that I would just get a catch tank or something to replace the vaccum canister and somehow reroute it to a custom intake with a welded nipple for a vaccum line.

Im going to assume that will work pretty decently.

I want to thank you very much for the help btw it has got me to read alot about my car and understadn the purpose of something I thought was pointless.

[Silent Drifter]

all I see are red X's.

[xxtrizz]

if you want to see the pics just view the source of the page and find the text he posted right b4 the links for the pics and then put the links in a new window. Somtimes they show up here.

[Silent Drifter]

hey PR240sx why didnt you just remove your hardlines? It looks like you have them all blocked off anyway. Im sure theyd free up some space.

[pr240sx]

The hardlines under the intake manifold are soldered to the lower intake manifoldI just capped them to prevent any dirt/rust inside. Just in case I may need a vaccum port for testing.

I have a 93 too!!Just use the canister without any upper lines connected but CAPPED!!You dont want any fuel vapor laing around the engine bay OUTSIDE the intake manifold.

[Silent Drifter]

I love the smell of fuel vapor in my engine bay haha

[E Dogg]

go all out and kill ur a/c, p/s, and abs!i did and i love my bayill try to get a pic up tonight